Giga
Masterpiece
my badGigs,
Your inquiry about potting frequency of Japanese Maple is worthy of its own thread. Let's try to keep this one focused on zelkova.

my badGigs,
Your inquiry about potting frequency of Japanese Maple is worthy of its own thread. Let's try to keep this one focused on zelkova.
Yeah, I was a bit off-topic with my replies too. Was thinking of deciduous in general vs. solely zelkova.my badand u right!
Adair, are you saying that this elm is screwed into that piece of wood from the bottom leaving only a few of those surface roots? Have any other photos of the process?Unfortunately, this one is dead. Not because of the work you see here. That worked extremely well. It was the next year. I pulled it up, trimmed back the roots and replanted it. Then, we had a late spring freeze, and like a dummy, I left it outside. It froze.
It was really a wonderful little tree.
Cmeg1, the key to success with this technique is to securely fasten the trunk to the board. I use coarse sheet rock screws. You literally have to do a reverse trunk chop! Only you're doing it with the roots. The bottom of the trunk should be flat. Make it look as if the tree was an air layer!
If there's a little section of the circumference of the trunk where there are no roots, no worries. Once you get the trunk attached, or maybe as you're tightening it down, slip some damp spaghnum moss under that edge of the trunk. Roots will come.
This is the technique to use on deciduous trees. You can, and should, repot deciduous trees every year. The colander technique is for conifers where you leave the root ball undisturbed for 3 or 4 years.
Thanks Jacos.Wow Cmeg1, I just read through this hole thread for the first time.
Its very intresting, I learned a lot about Zelkove I did not know.
I am sure your trees will become beauties, in fact they already are...
Just one thing I do not understand, or maybe looked (read) over it.
But why the wrapping of the twigs against the stem?
What is the exact function of this technique?
Anyway, great work (and also look likes lots of fun)
Thanks,Jeremy.This thread is inspiring. I purchased a big Zelkova earlier in the year, I have grown a large sacrifice branch at the top of the tree and have just air-layered it, looking forward to trying out one of these brooms![]()
Hopefully have my own thread going at some stage. The layer had bridged after only a few days so I recut and scraped and wrapped a piece of wire at the top. Looking forward to seeing the roots on your layers again, superb start to a nebari!Thanks,Jeremy.
Good for you with the Zelkova,and hope the layer is good.
Thanks,Jacos.Hello cmeg,
Great result after only 2,5 years!
I think you had better only used 'guy wires' to pull the branches down in position.
If you want to go towards the tree you pulled from the internet you need to put it back into the ground or at the least in a big growing box.
And use the 'hedge methode' to ticken the trunk.
Most likely you will have a suitable trunk in a year or 4-5. And than you wil need to cut back the branches very hard because they will have become to thick
And then you to build the canopy all over again.
So I see no point in wiring the tree in this stage of development.
But this is only my opinion...anyway you have enough Zelkova to try out different methodes.
Success![]()
Hi,Jacos.Organic p and k is phosphorous and potassium.The second and third letters on the fertilizer bottle.I am going to use a 0-3-1 organic liquid with every watering.The boxes looks nice enough ..a big 'upgrade' to the ugly plastic sieves
Zero N will likely not work.
What will happen: You will see the oldest leaves turn yellow because the plant will extract N from the old leaves to give to the youngest leaves.
Anyway if you see this happening, you can correct with chemical nitrogen, with almost immediate response of the plant.
Very low N will work.
Question: What do you mean by organic P & K ?