Zelcova Nire

Isn't the tree too far on its way to take the risk of layering? What are the odds that it will work?
 
Neli said:
Have you thought of injuring the trunk above soil level, to make it callus and avoid the reverse taper?
Click to expand...
When removing one of the trunks, it became clear that approximately two-thirds is bark, the rest is "wood". To injure the cambium layer to thicken, I would have to cut across a big portion of bark. Not the best option I think. The reason for inverse taper is often the high moisture levels at that region.
 
cmeg1 said:
I like your approach.Tree looks great.Thanks for the great pictures.
I guess you cut everything back for growth this spring.Are you going to continue to hedge the bonsai twice a season.Seems right on with technique.Or do you need to equalize some secondary branch thickness first?Did you have to wire or is everything falling in place?.I have not wired many things,I am growing zelkova.
Keep up the great work!
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At this stage i cut back 2 times. There are several reasons for this. This way the tree stays strong, the primary and secundary branches stay in position and you have lots of backbudding. Each technique has its time. You should look at the inner buds to determine when to switch to more intensive pruning. When you choose for a wide spreading tree there is no other option than wiring or you lack movement and position. Once every primary and secondary branch is in position it will be just cutting. Maybe a guy-wire here and there.

Year 4
Photo 1: wiring the tree (hope last time, lots of branches)
Photo 2: top view
Photo 3: tree in april
 

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dirk hoorelbeke said:
At this stage i cut back 2 times. There are several reasons for this. This way the tree stays strong, the primary and secundary branches stay in position and you have lots of backbudding. Each technique has its time. You should look at the inner buds to determine when to switch to more intensive pruning. When you choose for a wide spreading tree there is no other option than wiring or you lack movement and position. Once every primary and secondary branch is in position it will be just cutting. Maybe a guy-wire here and there.

Year 4
Photo 1: wiring the tree (hope last time, lots of branches)
Photo 2: top view
Photo 3: tree in april
Click to expand...
Yea,that is great.I am letting the trees grow out to increase root strength and vitality before pruning back.I am learning this approach from reading Walter Pall.I always thought I knew this but it is amazing how much I really did not understand it in method.
Your tree looks great fun.
 
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Yes, I've read that several times. Most people know it works with a parvifolia. It's a great job (although I don't know if bringing the roots above the surface that early is the best thing to do for the ramification). Can somebody give me an example of a Zelkova Nire where it worked? If someone can show me one example i'll take a shot.
Ian and cmeg1 thanks for helping me on the road...;)
 
I agree with you about the roots overground like he has it... Not what I would do... I'd have burried them during development.
I've never worked with Zelkova Nire nor have I layered a cork bark deciduous so maybe someone else could chime in on that. Zelkova and Elm are closely related but I'm not sure if the thicker bark would give you any trouble.
Ian
 
You've done a good job with this tree. The reverse taper in the lower trunk is unfortunate, but may work itself out over time as the nebari continues to spread.

I believe this is an Ulmus parvifolia 'Corticosa' (cork-bark Chinese Elm), and not Zelkova. Nire is a Japanese term for Chinese Elm, and I believe some countries' import restrictions are easier on Zelkova than elm, so many Ulmus parviflora are deliberately labeled as Zelkova to circumvent this.
 

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davetree said:
It does look like cork bark elm. The bark can be very thick, so thick that I think you could carve some of it out underneath the first right branch and get rid of most of the inverse taper. I did this with one of mine and it worked well.
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Maybe I'm missing the spirit of the thread in translation, but the link he posted earlier shows he's already performed and separated a ground layer.
 
Brian Van Fleet said:
Maybe I'm missing the spirit of the thread in translation, but the link he posted earlier shows he's already performed and separated a ground layer.
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I do not think so. He just posted a thread and pic of something similar that was ground layered. Or am I the one missing something? :confused:
 
it's something similar, quite similar, similar, the same, the same tree. Started layer in may 2013, separated in feb. and growing...
 
iant said:
Very nice!
How about a layer just below the 1st branch?
Ian
Click to expand...

dirk hoorelbeke said:
Isn't the tree too far on its way to take the risk of layering? What are the odds that it will work?
Click to expand...

dirk hoorelbeke said:
it's something similar, quite similar, similar, the same, the same tree. Started layer in may 2013, separated in feb. and growing...
Click to expand...
So you did the ground layer years ago...then why did you answer the way you did above? :rolleyes:

I am starting not to like you. Sorry, but I do not play games and waste other people's time which you seem to be doing.
 
A forum is a place where we all like to learn from. Some like to help and make plans for the future, discussing the options. Others are just watching. Now both people have what they want, the one thinking and discussing might have learned more. There is not one post where i told when the picture was taken, i showed new evolutions when someone pointed me in the right direction. Bonsai is about making choices. I'm glad you where the first one to help this tread to the next step. Thanks
 
Many here did the same but they were upfront with their intent. Not pretend and counter others whose suggestions they actually did. Maybe your style...definitely not mine so I won't be participating on any of it anymore.

Carry on...
 
Brian Van Fleet said:
I believe this is an Ulmus parvifolia 'Corticosa' (cork-bark Chinese Elm), and not Zelkova. Nire is a Japanese term for Chinese Elm, and I believe some countries' import restrictions are easier on Zelkova than elm, so many Ulmus parviflora are deliberately labeled as Zelkova to circumvent this.
Click to expand...

Right!
 
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