Yardmadori Mugo Help

[Horsefeathers]

I've had this Mugo Pine growing next to a pile of firewood since I moved into my house. I found the Vance Wood Mugo thread and per his instructions to wait until nowish, I finally dug it up. The only thing I did aside from potting it was remove the dead / broken branches and prune the brown needles.

I plan on leaving it alone and letting it settle, but in the mean time I've been trying to figure out how to encourage back budding. Given it's location it got pretty leggy trying to find the sun. There are also some branches that cross pretty dramatically as well as a funky 90 degree turn at the trunk / branches. Any ideas / suggestions on what to do with these?

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Looks like a great project tree to practice on.

Regretfully, the best thing to help this tree and get it to backbud is to let the tree grow out while properly fertilizing the tree all year. 1/2 strength fertilizer for about 1.5 months. If all is well move up to full strength.

Given all is well this fall one would wire the tree out so each branch has its own place to get sun. Nothing fancy, just lay the branches out and ensure the tips are wired up to get max growth stimulation.

Don’t worry about structural fixes yet. Next fall would be a great time.

One thing before signing off. Concerned about what looks like the tree is planted in is a concrete pot. If it is, please repot the tree as soon as possible. Concrete pots can loose water really fast. Also calcium carbonate is found in the cement that has a direct effect on raising the soil’s pH level. Not good for bonsai.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Horsefeathers]

One thing before signing off. Concerned about what looks like the tree is planted in is a concrete pot. If it is, please repot the tree as soon as possible. Concrete pots can loose water really fast. Also calcium carbonate is found in the cement that has a direct effect on raising the soil’s pH level. Not good for bonsai.

Cheers
DSD sends

I appreciate the feedback / info! Should the fertilization continue through the winter? I'm in Zone 6 if that matters.

As far as the pot goes, I'm not sure what it's made of. The interior of the pot is red, so assumed it was like a normal garden pot, but I couldn't say for sure. The outside finish is some sort of "glaze", but I couldn't say how that affects things either...

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Would use Osmocote Plus going into the winter. Once things freeze it will inactivate until the temperatures warm.

Continue to fertilize hard for at least 1-2 growing seasons, Once there is a critical mass of foliage, plan on candle balancing the following Spring. No fertilization until finished candle balancing. Then start shoot selection and fertilize afterwards.

Cheers
DSD sends

 

[Shibui]

Great that you have left plenty of intact terminal shoots. That will help with root growth.
I would not plan anything for at least a year after transplant. Pines often look great even when they have no new roots. A full year is often required to find out whether they have survived transplant IMHO so I would not rush into anything.

That timeline gives plenty of time to contemplate what to do with it.
Fortunately pines are generally pretty flexible so sharp bends are not the problem they may initially seem.
I notice that most of the branches appear to be heading to one side - no doubt caused by the location but you have neatly potted it with a vertical trunk? Ge branches seem to suggest windswept style but that would look far better if the trunk was incline either slightly or more. No need to make any changes yet but consider that as a possibility while you contemplate other possibilities.

As far as promoting back buds, it seems that pines back bud best when they are growing strongly. That will mean waiting until the tree recovers from transplant and the poor conditions it has had for a number of years. I would not count on back buds on mugho for several years post transplant. Feeding well and allowing growth appears to be the best option.
It may be possible to achieve desired foliage pads through wiring and bending instead of waiting for possible back buds. Some of the branches already have some strong bends so adding more bends to some of the straight sections might not look too much out of place and could achieve the desired results.

As far as more detailed design, it is hard to be more specific just using photos because they don't give the required 3D detail of branch movement. That's something best left to someone who can see and feel the tree directly and turn it around to look at possible changes in trunk orientation and angle.

 

[Horsefeathers]

Thanks for the info!

I certainly don't mind taking it slow. I'm really only looking for back budding since it's so leggy. I thought about some sort of cascade, but figured there are too many things that technically need correcting; although I quite like the tree as it is, but it's far from anything I'd call a proper bonsai.