jriddell88
Omono
It could also be freaking out and pushing energy on its last breath. ..I hope not and GoodluckOnly 6 days and I'm getting signs of happiness, I'm getting random areas like this. It's juvenile foliage but it is alive haha
It could also be freaking out and pushing energy on its last breath. ..I hope not and GoodluckOnly 6 days and I'm getting signs of happiness, I'm getting random areas like this. It's juvenile foliage but it is alive haha
Be happy but cautious. This is a branch I removed from an Ornamental Plum tree in my front yard.Only 6 days and I'm getting signs of happiness, I'm getting random areas like this. It's juvenile foliage but it is alive haha
Thank you for the warning Im trying to give it the absolute best care I can. It's in the shade and gets misted about 5 time a day.I sure hope it pulls through the winter.Be happy but cautious. This is a branch I removed from an Ornamental Plum tree in my front yard.
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I wanted to make a walking stick out of it so I stuck it my garage. About a month later I went to move it and found something very interesting on it.
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That's what stored energy can do. It's good to see new growth on your juniper but you'll need to be vigilant with its care. It's like a Zombie, once it turns there's no going back.
That's just my tie down just not a wire like for smaller trees lolI want to get permission to harvest yamadori so big that I need tie-down straps to keep it in the pot in the beginning
I have the book and that story is an amazing example of how a tree can survive if you know what you're doing. Kimura pushes the limits with his work but his results proves he is a true master.Dead wood is dead wood and cannot be resurrected, it can only be removed or carved out at some later date. What you are going to have to do IN MY OPINION is to give the tree a couple of years to recover and develop strongly so that you really can identify the living veins. If you are not careful at this point you are in danger of damaging the areas that are supporting the recovery of the tree. By the time the tree has recovered enough that the living veins start swelling under the existing bark you will be able to start work.
Just had a brain fart: If you have Kimura's book The bonsai art of Kimura he documents the development of a Juniper that was harvested in the wrong way and was for all intents and purposes; dead. It had some active growth but it was running on stored energy and the rest of the tree was essentially dead. He planted the tree upside down and was able to get the active growth from the top to root, using that stored energy and form a new tree with the old tree attached to it. It is now one of his most beautiful Bonsai.
Hey buddy, next shit I'd say this week because it'll be warm but I don't have time, we could figure it out.When do you want to go get the some more bro?
Is this book title The ancient art of Bonsai?Dead wood is dead wood and cannot be resurrected, it can only be removed or carved out at some later date. What you are going to have to do IN MY OPINION is to give the tree a couple of years to recover and develop strongly so that you really can identify the living veins. If you are not careful at this point you are in danger of damaging the areas that are supporting the recovery of the tree. By the time the tree has recovered enough that the living veins start swelling under the existing bark you will be able to start work.
Just had a brain fart: If you have Kimura's book The bonsai art of Kimura he documents the development of a Juniper that was harvested in the wrong way and was for all intents and purposes; dead. It had some active growth but it was running on stored energy and the rest of the tree was essentially dead. He planted the tree upside down and was able to get the active growth from the top to root, using that stored energy and form a new tree with the old tree attached to it. It is now one of his most beautiful Bonsai.
Indeed does suck man, I think I'll leave it be this year to gain strength since we cut some big ass roots off lol, then we should graft next spring.You want to start grafting this spring? Or let it sit and try to get some back budding this year? I say we let it chill and recover, graft next year. And see if it back buds at all so we can start to shrink it down a bit. Sucks that mine died!
I appreciate the response. I think I'll leave it till 2018 and think about grafting. The substrate is zeolite, which I'm sure many are unsure what it actually is but I've been experimentin and I like it, I would've used straight pumice but I didn't have that much money at the time. By the way I'm only 21 and the exact thought of moving monster trees when I'm older occurred to me last week when I collected an apple from my mother's house, probably around 50 years old, and potted up its probably close to 300 pounds or more. That'll be a fun one to move at any age.I did the exact same back in 1992, got 14 junipers, all around 75 years old. Only one survived the process. In those days pumice was not available in the Midwest. Used chicken grit - crushed granite, with a little topsoil thrown in. Heavy pots. Aftercare is important. DO NOT PRUNE - keep as much foliage as possible. Let it grow at least 2 years before beginning to think about working on it. Don't even try grafting until 2nd or 3rd growing season, reason is if you disrupt any of the growing veins while weak, you could hasten decline. Your growing seasons are longer than mine, you might be able to start work in 2018, but don't rush it. If I were to do it again, I would plan 5 years before first attempt to style, even just selecting branches to keep. But then again, huge climate difference here versus New Mexico.
If you are able to use a 100% pumice or pumice & fir bark, avoid repotting a second time for at least 5 years if possible. Collecting is trauma, and if you use an inert media, you will not need to repot, and the tree will appreciate not being repotted.
I would say it won't be until the early summer of 2018 that you will be certain which of the trees survived. They can be in ICU for a long time, and any stress during that time, can kill them. Go slow.
Beginning 2rd or 3rd year, I would begin grafting. Get your foliage donor(s) now so you have enough scion wood on hand down the road. Decide what you want, needle juniper (J. rigida), Shimpaku, Kishu, Blaaw, Fudo, or whether you want to use the foliage the tree already has. If you are going to use approach grafts you will need a couple dozen 2 to 4 inch pots of your scion wood choice so that you can "hang" the pots in the tree and graft the branches. If you do single point grafts, one or two big bushy scion wood donors are all you will need.
If you end up with one with low branches that can be kept, and you think you will want to use the same foliage. Take cuttings now of the collected junipers. The cultivar used then is likely not in the trade now, and cuttings will need 2 - 3 years to be big enough to use as a scion wood source or to be used for approach grafts.
Hope this helps
If you are over 50 years, I would ask, are you sure you wouldn't rather get into shohin? By the time you are 60 yrs old, you will resent moving around those heavy beasts.