wire in winter

Dave E said:
a field maple i want to wire some branches down,as well as put some bends in the trunks of some 1st year jbp seedlings.
and i have some elms that i may want to do to
Click to expand...

I think it's a fine time to wire the pines. I don't typically try and change the structure of deciduous trees in the winter as I more or less build everything from scratch on them. In the winter it's a good time to cut off any growth you don't want to keep and cut back any growth from last year you do want to keep.

Here's my process anyway:
  1. In the spring, I let it grow
  2. When the leaves harden, I wire
  3. When the wire starts to cut in, I remove it and cut back
  4. I repeat 2 and 3 as many times as possible during the summer. I wired my tridents 3 times last summer.
  5. In the fall I pull off all the wire
  6. In the winter I cut back and select branches.
It's a long process of letting it grow, directing the growth, and then cutting back over and over, year after year that creates ramification on deciduous trees.

Other people do stuff different and may get to the same point in the end, but I know that if you follow the steps above you will build a nice, well-ramified canopy on your deciduous tree. Whatever you choose to do, my advice is to find a system that works for you and be consistent in your care.

Scott
 
I am kind of like Dav4- wire whenever the Hell I can!

But, I refer to wire in the winter for most stuff if I get to it... D trees have no leaves in the way, Juniper and Pines are not actively growing and pushing new little buds for my big clumsy hands to break off, AND THERE ISNT MUCH ELSE TO DO WITH THEM IN THE WINTER TIME! I can't take as many cuttings, don't need to water, cannot repot, they aren't growing and need only one prunning... So if you get bored waiting on Spring, get the wire out and bend them to your will!

I have found Winged Elms that I wired over the winter lost some of the branches that were wired... The rest of the tree was fine... Maybe that is one cautionary tale!
 
Dave E said:
so if it's a warm winter day or couple days(40's) than most likely the frozen branch thing isn't a factor and i should be good?
Click to expand...
Living branches do not ever freeze--in any climate at any temperature--if they do the cells die. Tree branches have juices containing anti-freeze type compounds.
 
crust said:
Tree branches have juices containing anti-freeze type compounds.
Click to expand...
Primarily sucrose - a variety of other -croses (sugars). Sugar = antifreeze in trees.
Dav4 said:
Bending a branch damages the cambium, which in turn, makes that branch more prone to drying out. The more severe the bend, the more damage, and the higher the risk of drying out in unfavorable conditions, like when it's very cold and dry. This risk remains until the tree starts to grow over the damaged areas.
Click to expand...
Severe bends can be wrapped in saran (polyethylene), parafilm, or silicone (self-amalgamating tape for radiator repair). All of these materials are impervious to water but transmit vital oxygen.
 
markyscott said:
I think it's a fine time to wire the pines. I don't typically try and change the structure of deciduous trees in the winter as I more or less build everything from scratch on them. In the winter it's a good time to cut off any growth you don't want to keep and cut back any growth from last year you do want to keep.

Here's my process anyway:
  1. In the spring, I let it grow
  2. When the leaves harden, I wire
  3. When the wire starts to cut in, I remove it and cut back
  4. I repeat 2 and 3 as many times as possible during the summer. I wired my tridents 3 times last summer.
  5. In the fall I pull off all the wire
  6. In the winter I cut back and select branches.
It's a long process of letting it grow, directing the growth, and then cutting back over and over, year after year that creates ramification on deciduous trees.

Other people do stuff different and may get to the same point in the end, but I know that if you follow the steps above you will build a nice, well-ramified canopy on your deciduous tree. Whatever you choose to do, my advice is to find a system that works for you and be consistent in your care.

Scott
Click to expand...
Scott, you forgot that it also builds branches with good taper. Usually deciduous branches that folks try to wire and bend don't have much in the way of taper, and they also often have long internodes.

Your method builds better branches with taper, movement, and short internodes. It is more work, however. It also has the benefit of building branches without creating heavy scarring. Some try to create taper in branches by letting a subsidiary branch run and become a sacrifice. But that creates big scars.
 
As January freeze-dries itself away, after the January full moon(great spirits moon-Jan 24) starts my major bonsai work- "season of the soft wire". Winter is the time when my trees are taught obedience and I am taught diligence. Wiring for 100 hours is my goal.
 
Adair M said:
Scott, you forgot that it also builds branches with good taper. Usually deciduous branches that folks try to wire and bend don't have much in the way of taper, and they also often have long internodes.

Your method builds better branches with taper, movement, and short internodes. It is more work, however. It also has the benefit of building branches without creating heavy scarring. Some try to create taper in branches by letting a subsidiary branch run and become a sacrifice. But that creates big scars.
Click to expand...

Good add. I can't tell you how many deciduous trees I've had to cut all the branches off to start again for exactly that reason. It's too bad really - all that time and effort, but long taperless branches have to go.

Scott
 
markyscott said:
I can't tell you how many deciduous trees I've had to cut all the branches off to start again for exactly that reason. It's too bad really - all that time and effort, but long taperless branches have to go
Click to expand...
Nice to hear. I was not sure about my severe hacking at a tree which had some ramnification but no taper (here).

I wire when it suits me. I find however that in winter many deciduous species are very brittle compared to early spring. Especially maples snap without warning at bends that in spring are as easy as melting ice cream. After wiring I protect my trees from frost for a little bit, in the assumption it helps recovery. Not sure that it does though :)
 
Ive wired all mine in the past few weeks, including two Field maples, all of the branches were very pliable. only tree i couldnt fully wire was a Trident, because some of the courser branches on the tree were snapping. i think thats down to it getting a little too dry in the summer months though, i could be wrong.
Guess you just need to exercise a little common sense, if the branches on your trees and in your climate are bendy and pliable, whack on some wire...if they are rigid and stiff then ease off. or refrain from severe bends, as someone mentioned.
 
Dave E said:
as i mentioned i'm not asking if they will bend,but if it is ok,healthwise for the tree, to bend in the winter
Click to expand...
And the answer, as it often is with bonsai: "it depends".

It depends upon the species.

It depends upon the size of the wood you're trying to bend.

It depends upon your weather.

It depends on how much of a bend you are trying to make.

It depends on the aftercare you can provide.

There are no simple answers to your seemingly simple question.

Markyscott and I have attempted to address your question giving you an overview of how we go about creating bonsai of the highest quality. It is the fastest way to get the highest quality bonsai we know of. There are other methods that others employ, but in our opinion they do not produce as high a quality bonsai. But they may be "faster", if you are willing to accept lesser "quality".
 
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