Thank you Judy!!You'll want to mulch the whole pot in, sides and top. As everyone has said, just make sure you have drainage under the mulch.
Thank you Judy!!You'll want to mulch the whole pot in, sides and top. As everyone has said, just make sure you have drainage under the mulch.
Thank you Rockm!! As you can tell, I'm a super noob at this stuffLet me put it this way, you're making a mulch pile and burying the pot in the middle of it--protecting all sides. Putting it only on the top is useless.
The pile traps ambient heat (and cold) from the surface it's sitting on. Think of it as a woody blanket of sorts. In your situation, I'd put the tree on the balcony floor against the wall that looks into your apartment. Pile mulch over the pot, top to bottom ensuring the soil is well-watered before doing so. That mulch pile will probably trap some ambient heat from the wall (since the other side or that wall is a heated apartment) that will help protect it over the winter. You will probably have to check the pile periodically to ensure it stays moist throughout if your balcony is covered.
Any temperate, cold hardy tree should be treated this way. Fwiw, broad leaved evergreens like rhodies and azaleas are very prone to winter sun and wind burn, ie. freeze drying. Siting them out of the wind and sun when the soil is frozen is crucial.I know you all were talking about Japanese maples, does this same apply to rhodies and azaleas? Is there any posts I can read off the top of anyone's head?
So even when planting in the ground I take it they are prone to these symptoms?Any temperate, cold hardy tree should be treated this way. Fwiw, broad leaved evergreens like rhodies and azaleas are very prone to winter sun and wind burn, ie. freeze drying. Siting them out of the wind and sun when the soil is frozen is crucial.
Yup. When I lived in zone 6 MA, every 5 or 6 years, there'd be a winter with a few weeks of very cold air... highs only in the teens and low 20's. The landscape rhodies and hollies always took a beating, with crispy, brown leaves come springtime.So even when planting in the ground I take it they are prone to these symptoms?
Thanks! Have you ever grown a rhododendron in a pot up here before?Yup. When I lived in zone 6 MA, every 5 or 6 years, there'd be a winter with a few weeks of very cold air... highs only in the teens and low 20's. The landscape rhodies and hollies always took a beating, with crispy, brown leaves come springtime.
Briefly... I was a relative newby at the time and killed it quickly.Thanks! Have you ever grown a rhododendron in a pot up here before?
Seems like that's the norm with these plants.Briefly... I was a relative newby at the time and killed it quickly.
Ive had fungal issues once when doing something similiarWhy? Plants in the ground get less air circulation than mulch that drains through...
What do you mean by fungal issues--above or below the mulch? and what do you mean by "similar?" Just wondering...I've had white growth on pots underneath the mulch, seems to be some kind of myc. It has never caused an issue with anything over the last 20 years or so.Ive had fungal issues once when doing something similiar
Still hmmm'ng and haww'ng. Def going mulch it like crazy and have plenty of air circulation. Not going to fully enclose the entire bonsai if I go that route the cooler route (cooler with lots of drainage holes on the bottom that is)I built a box,wraped it in plastic n mulched and i believe the early spring before bud break caused one of my maples to get fungus in the buds,im curious to see how his works out,maybe if i built a larger box with circulation it might have worked better,but i have much better results putting them against the house n mulching around them.
No plastic. Use burlap as a windbreak if that's what you're wanting.I built a box,wraped it in plastic n mulched and i believe the early spring before bud break caused one of my maples to get fungus in the buds,im curious to see how his works out,maybe if i built a larger box with circulation it might have worked better,but i have much better results putting them against the house n mulching around them.
Why wrap it in plastic?I built a box,wraped it in plastic n mulched and i believe the early spring before bud break caused one of my maples to get fungus in the buds,im curious to see how his works out,maybe if i built a larger box with circulation it might have worked better,but i have much better results putting them against the house n mulching around them.
Thank you rodeolthr!I'm in a similar zone just north of Seattle and all of my maples are left out in all the elements all winter (I have hundreds of seedlings in 4" pots along with more mature trees). The only problem I ever experience is if drain holes get clogged, which can lead to drowning and/or rotting.