MrFancyPlants
Masterpiece
Synopsis to follow (my wife wants the iPad back).
Willow ficus mame styling advice
- Thread starter MrFancyPlants
- Start date
Synopsis to follow (my wife wants the iPad back).
MrFancyPlants
Masterpiece
You can see I already have the next pot picked out. I have also already removed obviously duplicate branches, but should probably remove a few more to help with the taper development. How about the thick branch on the left in photo one? Chop it, leave it or make it a new leader? Any advice on branch selection would be helpful.
I have posted this guy on here before when it was a cutting that rooted successfully in a vase with some hydroponic basil about a year ago. I've been taking inspiration from Jim's privets and other's little guys, among other reasons, because I like the idea of being able to work on "finishing" a bonsai.
I did have a bout of spider mites early in the season and I probably also over did it with the neem oil as this one totally defoliated itself a few weeks ago. Fortunately, they seem to be in check now between the neem or maybe the protekt I added in to my regiment. Growth has been strong under the new LED chips and the leaves are smaller than they were out in the sun for the summer. I say new because i did have to replace the two 50 watt chips that I was running in parallel off of a 100w power supply. You are not really supposed to run LEDs in parallel because when they heat up their resistance drop and can lead to a run away current swing. Fortunately I did have another current limiting circuit in place so that it started nauseously strobing rather than burn down my house. More good news is that these chips are getting cheaper. I replaced with two 100w chips that can be had about $12 a pop on eBay. I am running them on the same circuit, so they are under driven, but I am ok with the slight spectral shift because they are blindingly bright and I think they are running even a bit cooler than the older chips, but with higher output. They will still probably burn out eventually, but that is only because I am still using the solid state heat exchanging capability of the 50w led enclosures. Some day I'll reengineer using some heat pipes and dual purpose a fan to share some of the heat withe the roots of my tropicals.
I have posted this guy on here before when it was a cutting that rooted successfully in a vase with some hydroponic basil about a year ago. I've been taking inspiration from Jim's privets and other's little guys, among other reasons, because I like the idea of being able to work on "finishing" a bonsai.
I did have a bout of spider mites early in the season and I probably also over did it with the neem oil as this one totally defoliated itself a few weeks ago. Fortunately, they seem to be in check now between the neem or maybe the protekt I added in to my regiment. Growth has been strong under the new LED chips and the leaves are smaller than they were out in the sun for the summer. I say new because i did have to replace the two 50 watt chips that I was running in parallel off of a 100w power supply. You are not really supposed to run LEDs in parallel because when they heat up their resistance drop and can lead to a run away current swing. Fortunately I did have another current limiting circuit in place so that it started nauseously strobing rather than burn down my house. More good news is that these chips are getting cheaper. I replaced with two 100w chips that can be had about $12 a pop on eBay. I am running them on the same circuit, so they are under driven, but I am ok with the slight spectral shift because they are blindingly bright and I think they are running even a bit cooler than the older chips, but with higher output. They will still probably burn out eventually, but that is only because I am still using the solid state heat exchanging capability of the 50w led enclosures. Some day I'll reengineer using some heat pipes and dual purpose a fan to share some of the heat withe the roots of my tropicals.
Redwood Ryan
Masterpiece
Are you satisfied with this size trunk? Willow Leaf leaves can get small, but on a trunk as small as this one, they may still be out of proportion. If I were you I'd let that leader continue to grow for another while to thicken everything up.
MrFancyPlants
Masterpiece
I think I am satisfied with the trunk size for now. It will look beefy once I get it in that tiny pot. I am more concerned with developing the taper and figuring out my direction for it. I know the leaves will be a bit big relatively but I want to see how small I can get them. I can always change my mind an grow it out later. That being said I do plan to let the leader run to smooth the taper and wouldn't mind letting another branch or two run as long as I have a plan in place.
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thams
Omono
I think what the tree needs more than anything is movement. I would snip the leader (if you're happy with the trunk thickness) to induce a direction change. Then let that leader run wild and then repeat the change in direction. It'll add a lot of character which I think is important with such a small tree. Since the eye follows the leader straight up as is, the base (which it good for a little tree) gets lost. Just my two cents.
jk_lewis
Masterpiece
Agree. Looks a bit like an onion right now.
thams
Omono
Or you could add a bit of wire for movement. I think clip and grow might look more natural though.
MrFancyPlants
Masterpiece
tiny ficus
I will certainly consider putting in some more movement either by wiring or by chopping and picking a new leader. Although, I think I was going for the small banyon/broom style. I know that you don't want to force a tree into a style if it already is tending towards another, and I thought that real straight leader could be the foundation for a convincing banyon. Here is another little guy that I've been enjoying since I moved him into this pot that I bought off etsy, not realizing how small it was. I was thinking that I nice little bayon would work well to keep it company since this one already has some movement.
But, back to the onion, if you still think more movement is the way to go, should I take off the existing top and turn the thickest branch into a new leader?
I will certainly consider putting in some more movement either by wiring or by chopping and picking a new leader. Although, I think I was going for the small banyon/broom style. I know that you don't want to force a tree into a style if it already is tending towards another, and I thought that real straight leader could be the foundation for a convincing banyon. Here is another little guy that I've been enjoying since I moved him into this pot that I bought off etsy, not realizing how small it was. I was thinking that I nice little bayon would work well to keep it company since this one already has some movement.
But, back to the onion, if you still think more movement is the way to go, should I take off the existing top and turn the thickest branch into a new leader?
thams
Omono
If you have a definitive vision for the tree, then I say stick with your plan! My advice is only what I would do - it doesn't mean it's the best or only advise. I can see a broom style in your tree. My only concern is that the trunk will be too thin and short to support a larger canopy. I'm afraid the result will look topiary-ish (popsicle stick with a bush on top).
I think movement in tiny trees is especially important because there is so little material for the eye to follow. You want the viewer to get sucked in and drawn to the details that make a tree interesting. It's very easy for me to say this, but it's much more difficult to create. I'm working toward a mame willow leaf cascade currently. Not the easiest thing I've ever done.
I think movement in tiny trees is especially important because there is so little material for the eye to follow. You want the viewer to get sucked in and drawn to the details that make a tree interesting. It's very easy for me to say this, but it's much more difficult to create. I'm working toward a mame willow leaf cascade currently. Not the easiest thing I've ever done.
MrFancyPlants
Masterpiece
Well, thanks for the input. I will think on it for a while. I'll keep the leader for now, and then chop it back a ways and see where it re-sprouts. I am thinking I should eliminate all but three branches. A low one, a middle one on the back and a high one on the opposite side as the first? I'll try to find some banyon styling techniques before I do anything.
For the cascade, I've seen the technique where you grow the plant on the side or even upside-down so that it will naturally reach it's way up and when you right the pot the leaves will straighten out over time but keep the downward movement.
Thanks,
David
For the cascade, I've seen the technique where you grow the plant on the side or even upside-down so that it will naturally reach it's way up and when you right the pot the leaves will straighten out over time but keep the downward movement.
Thanks,
David
thams
Omono
Haha, I've never thought about growing the tree upside down! It makes sense though since many trees are apically dominant. Ficus definitely likes to grow upward so that might be an option if I'm having issues. It's so early in development that I won't need to worry about wiring down the branches (or growing upside down). Keep us posted on this tree!
edprocoat
Masterpiece
Mrfancy, I would wait until you are where you want to be with your design before you put it in that small pot. Once in that that pot the plant will use its energy trying to develop air roots because it will get root bound, you will not get much growth up top.
ed
ed
MrFancyPlants
Masterpiece
Ficus b. cutting
I can't wait to put this one in a decent pot and to witness how the cutting has developed since early summer. It was at the end of a long straight section so I took my time deciding where the perfect base would begin. I sharpened the long straight section below into a stake in order to stabilize the young advantageous roots.
I can't wait to put this one in a decent pot and to witness how the cutting has developed since early summer. It was at the end of a long straight section so I took my time deciding where the perfect base would begin. I sharpened the long straight section below into a stake in order to stabilize the young advantageous roots.
