When to trunk chop a trident?

[Beetleman72]

Sorry they're sideways again but I purchased this trident the other day, I live in western nc and the buds are about to pop any day now. Is it too late to do a trunk chop this year? When should I chop this? You can see the latent bud near the base of the tree and its got several more at that point and below.

 

[Don Blackmond]

now is the perfect time.

 

[Beetleman72]

Would it be better to develop the branch that ill use as the new leader for a year or two before I chop? Or go ahead while its just a bud?

 

[Smoke]

Cut about 1/4 inch above one of the buds and seal the cut very well. Make the cut straight across. Let everything grow this year. Do not cut anything off while it grows this year. Start to fertilize heavily in about three weeks after chop. Make sure fertilizer is no more than about 5-5-5. Bat guano would be perfect. Keep moist but not overly wet. I say this because I have no idea what its planted in. Just make sure it gets the water it needs.

It will grow lots of leaves and it will be thirsty often. Post a new picture in about two months.

 

[Don Blackmond]

do what Al says and you will be fine, or just chop it and watch new buds pop all over the remaining trunk, then choose one to develop into the new leader.

 

[Beetleman72]

I've been emailing Shane Martin from shanemartinbonsai. I had kind of envisioned the tree about 2 feet tall and looking something like this the trunk is about 1 3/4" at the base right now. Should I let the trunk thicken up for a few years before I chop or is it thick enough already to start the process?

 

[Dirty Nails]

Half the world says chop at bud swell, the other half says to let the leaves harden off first. Why is this?

 

[Dirty Nails]

I've been emailing Shane Martin from shanemartinbonsai. I had kind of envisioned the tree about 2 feet tall and looking something like thisView attachment 33800 the trunk is about 1 3/4" at the base right now. Should I let the trunk thicken up for a few years before I chop or is it thick enough already to start the process?

And in a year it could be 4 inches which is the right thickness for a 2 foot tree.

 

[Beetleman72]

Half the world says chop at bud swell, the other half says to let the leaves harden off first. Why is this?

I've never read anything or heard of anyone who prunes or chops when the leaves harden. I am a landscaper and a good rule of thumb is never prune in months that do not have an r in the month. JanuaRy febRuary maRch apRil, NOT in may June July August sept oct nov, that's for this hemisphere.

 

[Beetleman72]

I was also thinking of another option: I could chop it, do a mound layer and making a fusion bonsai from the shoots. What do ya think would be best for this very straight tree?

 

[Redwood Ryan]

Here's a thread I started last year with this same question, maybe it will help you:

http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthread.php?7377-Maple-Chop-Time

 

[Beetleman72]

So I have a good pair of loppers and a good branch saw. What should I use to do the chop?

 

[Dav4]

So I have a good pair of loppers and a good branch saw. What should I use to do the chop?

Use the saw. It should make a much cleaner cut then loppers.

 

[Dirty Nails]

I've never read anything or heard of anyone who prunes or chops when the leaves harden. I am a landscaper and a good rule of thumb is never prune in months that do not have an r in the month. JanuaRy febRuary maRch apRil, NOT in may June July August sept oct nov, that's for this hemisphere.

Here is an example of someone saying to chop major branches and trunks in late summer. It is under the section "branch pruning"

http://www.bonsai4me.com/SpeciesGuide/AcerPalmatumAdvancedGuide.htm

 

[nathanbs]

And in a year it could be 4 inches which is the right thickness for a 2 foot tree.

My vote is to let it thicken more as well. But the bigger the chop the bigger the scar is that you have to heal. You can rely on other sacrifice branches to help thicken after the initial chop. I would compromise, let it grow another year or two and chop it when its closer to 3"-3.5"

 

[tmmason10]

I've never read anything or heard of anyone who prunes or chops when the leaves harden. I am a landscaper and a good rule of thumb is never prune in months that do not have an r in the month. JanuaRy febRuary maRch apRil, NOT in may June July August sept oct nov, that's for this hemisphere.

Sept oct nov HAVE Rs in the month, but this is good advice. You can prune back a few weeks after the leaves has dropped in the fall. My cousin ruined a root over rock project but cutting a small branch off in the middle of the summer, lesson learned.

 

[bumblebee]

Al,

Why should he make the cut straight across, rather than at an angle? I'm going to be chopping 2 tridents and need to know all I can. May wait til next year though.

Libby

 

[Smoke]

All the energy will move to the higest point. That is where you will most likely get a bud, but it will not bud near the cut edge below the high point of an angled cut.

With a straight cut it will pop all around the cut edge at node points. Then one can be selected as a leader and the others can be trained into side branches or sacrafices.

If one can cut between two buds on a tree and make an angled cut to connect them, then by all means do that. The angled cut will help with taper, but only if there established buds below the top of the angled cut. Hope that all makes sense.

 

[nathanbs]

my guess is because a straight cut has much less surface area than an angle cut so less die back. Additionally if you are changing the planting angle the flat cut once healed and tapered by the new leader will have a better transition and movement. EDIT*well there you go straight from the horses mouth. Was typing while Al was apparently. Ill leave my answer as its different than his

 

[garywood]

I second what Al has said. When making an angled cut, how do you know what angle? Without an existing bud or branch on the opposite side you are relying on hope. Then you don't have the potential die-back issue on the opposite side of the leader.