What's wrong with my satsuki azalea?

burakki

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Unfortunately, the same problem continues. All new shoots dry up in this way after a short time.
 

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roberthu

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Organic fertilizer or slow release during very hot weather is known to be problematic. A lot more fertilizer can be freed than you'd expect, because metabolism is sped up.
Better to use chemical fertilizer, because you can know the exact dilution. And when water stress is already a problem, better not to fertilize at all during the hottest part of summer. The tree will probably shut down anyway.
The symptoms do match fertilizer burn, which is why I asked.
Also 7 biogold pyramids seems like a lot for a single tree.

How you'd reckon that after removing the biogold, things stayed the same and new foliage keeps dying?
This is the first time I hear Chemical fertilizer is better than organic in the summer.
 

Glaucus

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You can dose the chemical fertilizer to be really dilute. You can give chemical fertilizer with less salts in the water than ordinary tapwater.
You'd be adding fertilizer, but at the same time, you are adding less salts and thus less salt stress than with ordinary watering without even fertilizing.
If you have organic fertilizer, it releases salts proportional to the temperature. Because higher temperatures mean higher bacterial metabolism.

The problem would be if you add chemical fertilizer to tap water at a recommended dose, and you want to give the plant all the fertilizer they need the coming month in one watering period.
You can't give a plant all that fertilizer through one application of chemical fertilizer, during a heat period, during which drought stress is already a thing.

This is also why when they grow plants in the desert, they often add chemical fertilizer to all the water the plants get.
 

roberthu

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You can dose the chemical fertilizer to be really dilute. You can give chemical fertilizer with less salts in the water than ordinary tapwater.
You'd be adding fertilizer, but at the same time, you are adding less salts and thus less salt stress than with ordinary watering without even fertilizing.
If you have organic fertilizer, it releases salts proportional to the temperature. Because higher temperatures mean higher bacterial metabolism.

The problem would be if you add chemical fertilizer to tap water at a recommended dose, and you want to give the plant all the fertilizer they need the coming month in one watering period.
You can't give a plant all that fertilizer through one application of chemical fertilizer, during a heat period, during which drought stress is already a thing.

This is also why when they grow plants in the desert, they often add chemical fertilizer to all the water the plants get.
So adding chemical fertilizer reduces salt in the water? Not sure I understand the logic
 

Glaucus

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No, sorry I should have explained a bit better. Instead of tap water, you can use either rain water or RO water and add chemical fertilizer to that.
When you add tap water, you add quite a bit of Na+, Cl- and HCO3- to the soil or substrate of your plant or bonsai.
Especially the Na+ is unwanted. So if you remove all of that, and replace it with K+ NH4+ NO3-, then you fertilize with less salts.
You will be replacing the Na+ in your soil with for example K+, Mg2+, Ca2+
It will be easier for the plant to take up water, because less salt, lower electric conductivity. But there will also be essential minerals available.

But even with just tap water, while you you can only add a very small amount of chemical fertilize. you will know which dose you are adding. If you add too much, you will indeed potentially severely damage the tree.
But if you add a tiny amount, you won't. And with organic fertilizer, you don't know how much will be released. For normal temperatures and normal amount of rain, it will always be safe. But during a heat wave, this is no longer true and the solid organic fertilizer may decompose more rapidly, and a small amount of irrigation may cause buildup of a lot of salt/minerals among the roots.
 

Deep Sea Diver

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So sorry about your satsuki.

Did you pull the plant out of the pot and check the roots? (And trim off the dead parts?) Should be fine white yellow in color and the media in the core should be kanuma colored throughout.

If not that’s the issue.

Cheers
DSD sends
 

roberthu

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Unfortunately, the same problem continues. All new shoots dry up in this way after a short time.
Now I remember that when I first moved to Florida, I had the exact same thing happen. I still don't know what happened but my guess is fungal issue. I had the azaleas in shade the entire time so I know it wasn't sun burn. I also checked for insects and could not find any. I'd try fungicide and see if that helps.
 

Deep Sea Diver

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I'd try fungicide and see if that helps.

It’s time to look at the roots. Root rot is the main result of fungus…. rarely will a fungicide alone cure it.

Here’s a thread that might apply…


Cheers
DSD sends
 
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