M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
He just makes crap up.Ryan has “teased” about a fourth pine category
He just makes crap up.Ryan has “teased” about a fourth pine category
You cannot say that. He is a bonsai god. At least.. If I look at the frequency of his name being mentioned.He just makes crap up.
I know.You cannot say that. He is a bonsai god. At least.. If I look at the frequency of his name being mentioned.
This tree grows clots of buds at most growth points every year regardless of how fast it grows--I think it may be a special cultivar but I am not sure.Come on give me a break. If you don't" need the back budding" does not mean you let the tree grow wild until you do. Think about that one; if the tree all of a sudden needs back budding it means it has grown out of bounds from the design you had set for it. The idea is to keep the tree growing along the path you want which also means you can remove buds if the need presents itself, usually the bigger buds, leaving two only of the smaller ones. This way you maintain the direction of your tree and you are renewing the new growth without destroying the design.
Well, not even in Europe all pines have the same length needles. If you compare the needle size of a mugo with that of a full grown Italian Stone pine, you will see over 10 cm difference. Cleay one is short needle and the other long needle. Now, does this make a difference? Not so sure. My guess is that Ryan Neal is trying to make sense of his attempts to reduce the needle size of Ponderosas, but that all these is still very preliminary.Ehm.. The time of year you look at them?
The amount of water they have had?
Fertilizer status?
I bet that is it. Am I right? Fertilizer status?
Sorry, maybe I ave just never seen short needled pines (Or long needled pines for that matter). I do not know what species would be short, which would be long, and where the boundary is. To me, all pines have long needles, and firs have short needles.![]()
Sounds like a Mops, in which case you have to remove a bunch of the larger buds leaving only two of the smaller buds to provide new growtn.This tree grows clots of buds at most growth points every year regardless of how fast it grows--I think it may be a special cultivar but I am not sure.
I have one that does it too.This tree grows clots of buds at most growth points every year regardless of how fast it grows--I think it may be a special cultivar but I am not sure.
Who is recomending the blocking of light to get back budding? IMHO this is a total counter to what I know and have practiced for many years. In the 60 plus years since my own personal research has proved to my mind that light exposure is vitally important to encouraging back budding even most of the pundents will tell you that we eliminate needles in order to allow light into the interior of a tree will encourage back budding.Vance's hose/splitter analogy made sense to me for getting shorter needles, but now I'm confused about blocking light to get back budding.
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Question was prompted by post #28 by @crust on page 2.Who is recomending the blocking of light to get back budding? IMHO this is a total counter to what I know and have practiced for many years. In the 60 plus years since my own personal research has proved to my mind that light exposure is vitally important to encouraging back budding even most of the pundents will tell you that we eliminate needles in order to allow light into the interior of a tree will encourage back budding.
So I would like to understand this de-candling subject...I have Lodgepole and Ponderose pines, that I think are single flush pines. How does one ramify and control growth without de-candling? Help appreciated. Peter
Question was prompted by post #28 by @crust on page 2.
" If I leave this it will essentially double in size, green-wise, and become very bushy and will block out interior light and become super-tip vigorous, this has weakened interior branches in the past so I will thin the buds before spring "
So that was what perplexed me.