What is the fastest way to plant maple seeds ?

[penumbra]

I’m not trying to rush it. I’m more like trying to skip the unnecessary parts because a week ago I planted wisteria seeds and now I have 4 inch seedlings !

Then you already have a problem. Did you give any thought as to what you would do with the seedlings when they sprouted? They are going to die this winter.
If you are serious about growing from seeds you need to do some reading. You are asking here for a simple answer to a question that is volumes long.

 

[Njyamadori]

Then you already have a problem. Did you give any thought as to what you would do with the seedlings when they sprouted? They are going to die this winter.
If you are serious about growing from seeds you need to do some reading. You are asking here for a simple answer to a question that is volumes long.

I only thought that they would sprout until spring and all I asked was how to grow trident maple , and field maple

 

[sorce]

unnecessary parts

Like planting seeds?

Harvest seedlings!

Sorce

 

[BonsaiSniper]

I’m not trying to rush it. I’m more like trying to skip the unnecessary parts because a week ago I planted wisteria seeds and now I have 4 inch seedlings !

What variety? I think some like the Chinese wisteria are invasive in the USA. They will be a pain to get rid of... oh wait, I have tried. It’s almost impossible.

 

[Njyamadori]

What variety? I think some like the Chinese wisteria are invasive in the USA. They will be a pain to get rid of... oh wait, I have tried. It’s almost impossible.

I’m pretty sure it is Chinese but I’m making them for bonsai

 

[BonsaiNaga13]

Or growing chopstick trees?

Gotta start somewhere, even sumo trunks started as pencil thick trees, the biggest air layer started as a toothpick sized twig at some point

 

[BonsaiNaga13]

Acer palmatum and trident maple just plant in a pot cover with about 1/4inch of soil and leave in a protected spot over winter. Ofcourse watering occasionally and wait until spring. Field maple call for warm stratification and then cold stratification. Tried picking some fresh from a tree and planting and leaving out all winter. None grew so do your due diligence and make sure to update us cuz we're all still learning

 

[MrWunderful]

Gotta start somewhere, even sumo trunks started as pencil thick trees, the biggest air layer started as a toothpick sized twig at some point

the joke was literally planting chopsticks, hoping to grow trees that have chopsticks as fruit. Looks like it missed ya

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Keep in mind that fast growth isn't always quality growth.
I can grow a three foot tree in 4 years, but that doesn't mean it's a quality tree. On the contrary.
I try to keep my seedlings as small as possible in the first couple years because this approach gives me small internodes, lots of nodes that can bud out, and an overall denser trunk that contains more wood per volume; lower chance of rotting and infections.
It's easier to turn a shohin into a bigger tree than turning a larger tree into a shohin.

 

[Eckhoffw]

Sorry, no help here on your fast track seedlings.
BUT, wanted to suggest switching your focus perhaps onto researching and understanding collected material -how to collect and develop material.
Being young and eager is an advantage for sure. You can definitely start with seeds, but I imagine your racing to achieve something more in little time.
I’m still new to this hobby too and will be attempting to do more collecting myself.

The majority of my plants came from nursery purchased 5 to 10 year old plants.
While this is fine, I’m learning that To get them to become more than ok little shohin trees, much more time is needed.

Dig big, and you will have skipped many years of waiting. Of course developing collected material takes time and research as well but.......you know what I mean.

 

[Njyamadori]

Sorry, no help here on your fast track seedlings.
BUT, wanted to suggest switching your focus perhaps onto researching and understanding collected material -how to collect and develop material.
Being young and eager is an advantage for sure. You can definitely start with seeds, but I imagine your racing to achieve something more in little time.
I’m still new to this hobby too and will be attempting to do more collecting myself.



Dig big, and you will have skipped many years of waiting. Of course developing collected material takes time and research as well but.......you know what I mean.

My whole “collection” is basically just all stuff I collected. Do you know any videos or blogs that I can learn more about collecting so I can ?

 

[Kanorin]

For seed germination, According to the Dirr and Heuser manual,
Trident Maple: 2-3 months cold stratification (sub 40 degrees F - there's a couple of ways to do this, but basically you want them a little bit moist and cold - fungus/mold is your enemy here).
Field Maple: 1 month warm, followed by 3-6 months cold stratification
Japanese Maple: Varies a bit depending on variety, but 3-5 months of cold stratification is recommended.

As far as growing the seedlings hard and fast, above posters have given some useful warnings regarding internode lengths and such, but I'll answer the question and you can choose your own adventure.

• Fertilize heavily (e.g. once a week rather than twice) once the seedlings are about 3-4 inches tall.
• Plant in the ground or in a pot with some (sifted) organic substrate as part of your mix. Something like 50% pine bark (or sifted peat) and 50% pumice
• Put some wire on them while they are young and flexible. Unless a bench full of telephone polls is what you seek.
• Collect or buy a tree with a 3+ inch trunk to work on while you wait five-ten years for the seedlings.

 

[Njyamadori]

For seed germination, According to the Dirr and Heuser manual,
Trident Maple: 2-3 months cold stratification (sub 40 degrees F - there's a couple of ways to do this, but basically you want them a little bit moist and cold - fungus/mold is your enemy here).
Field Maple: 1 month warm, followed by 3-6 months cold stratification
Japanese Maple: Varies a bit depending on variety, but 3-5 months of cold stratification is recommended.

As far as growing the seedlings hard and fast, above posters have given some useful warnings regarding internode lengths and such, but I'll answer the question and you can choose your own adventure.

• Fertilize heavily (e.g. once a week rather than twice) once the seedlings are about 3-4 inches tall.
• Plant in the ground or in a pot with some (sifted) organic substrate as part of your mix. Something like 50% pine bark (or sifted peat) and 50% pumice
• Put some wire on them while they are young and flexible. Unless a bench full of telephone polls is what you seek.
• Collect or buy a tree with a 3+ inch trunk to work on while you wait five-ten years for the seedlings.

thanks very much

 

[Eckhoffw]

My whole “collection” is basically just all stuff I collected. Do you know any videos or blogs that I can learn more about collecting so I can ?

Have you watched any of the Appalachian Bonsai videos? Pretty good documentation and technique.

 

[AlainK]

MAPLES :

I've found out that where I live (zone 8b-9a) where the temps rarely go below -10°C (14°F) and only for a few days, I have as much success with most maples species when I sow them outside than when I stratify them.

The alternate periods of temps below zero and above is enough to strat the process of germination when the weather gets warmer.

It was already the case 10 years ago, before climate warming, when we could have ten days between -10 and -15°C.

Scarification and Stratification. I just began prep on a few small batches of seeds. As others have said, treatment will vary from one species/variety to another.
i.e. you might have: soak 24 hours, warm stratify 30 days, cold stratify 90 days.

Palmatum and buergerianum maples : I've never scarified my seeds. Like "warm" stratification" I think it's unnecessary.

Warm + cold stratification seems useful for Acer japonicum, Acer shirasawanum and a few others though. Even if out of 12 seeds I collected from an Acer shirasawanum 'Autumn Moon', three germinated after just being put in a pot and left outside the whole winter.

 

[LittleDingus]

The alternate periods of temps below zero and above is enough to strat the process of germination when the weather gets warmer.

When I cold stratify species like maple, I'll put them in a damp paper towel inside a ziplock bag in the bottom of our refrigerator. I take them out roughly every 2 weeks and leave them on the counter to warm up for a day or two. Somewhere in that warm up period I open them up and check for mold/signs of germination. This simulates the freeze/thaw cycle.

With tridents, for example, usually after a few cycles of this treatment I'll starting to see the first few seeds with tiny roots. The won't all germinate at once...usually there are a few early racers, a big pack in the middle, and some laggards. Once they start showing root, they can be planted out if you have someplace appropriate. They can also be left for a few cycles if you're not ready to plant out...but mold is their enemy! Any that have started to sprout you may want to keep cold rather than cycle as well since the warm temps will speed growth.

Last winter I had my first 2-3 seedlings in soil by February (I have lights and good growing space indoors). The rest I let sit until early April.