Too late to repot this old crab apple?

Apples have massive root systems which quickly colonize the pots they are growing in. If they are healthy, you can easily repot them yearly, for which they will be grateful. I have root-pruned and repotted apples mid-summer with no ill effects....fwiw.
 
Apples have massive root systems which quickly colonize the pots they are growing in. If they are healthy, you can easily repot them yearly, for which they will be grateful. I have root-pruned and repotted apples mid-summer with no ill effects....fwiw.
Good to know because weather is changing this week and doesn’t look favorable unless I protect the tree. I may opt to wait another week but I’d imagine once the buds start popping then it’s not a process that just up and stops. Is that accurate?
 
I find that normally frost-hardy trees do not really care about experiencing the odd frost after repotting.
 
I find that normally frost-hardy trees do not really care about experiencing the odd frost after repotting.
Must be a climate/location thing. Not the case here. I've know ones who took a hit from frost after a repot. Which is why you see ones always warning trees need protecting once they start to wake. Even without a repot under their belt.
 
hich is why you see ones always warning trees need protecting once they start to wake. Even without a repot under their belt.
Waking up trees mind frost. As they start waking up, hardiness decreases.
It is not the repotting that is hurting the trees at that time.

Main problem I see with early repotting: The tree respondonds slowly to not during winter, so open cuts remain open, and the tree has fewer roots able to take up water, so drying out during extended deep frost is a serious risk.
 
I’d imagine once the buds start popping then it’s not a process that just up and stops. Is that accurate

To a point...I've had "buds emerging" for weeks on an Amur. Every tree seems to have a different "point of no return", where enough leaf has emerged to take damage. Yours seems it could go either way.

For this reason I'd watch it and learn rather than Repot. Especially if it does have scale. For me, pests is one strike for the year, could be 2 or 3 even. So Repot isn't advised die to that. But also, if this thing halts, and you can wait to Repot a month or so till safer times, you won't get yourself caught in a schedule of repotting too soon, than protecting for no reason.

What is on that one branch?

Sorce
 
To a point...I've had "buds emerging" for weeks on an Amur. Every tree seems to have a different "point of no return", where enough leaf has emerged to take damage. Yours seems it could go either way.

For this reason I'd watch it and learn rather than Repot. Especially if it does have scale. For me, pests is one strike for the year, could be 2 or 3 even. So Repot isn't advised die to that. But also, if this thing halts, and you can wait to Repot a month or so till safer times, you won't get yourself caught in a schedule of repotting too soon, than protecting for no reason.

What is on that one branch?

Sorce

Sorce, I see what you are speaking of. That’s just shadow from dem apples, no scale. It’s a picture from when I first purchased it.
Tree has no obvious problems just wet soil, part of the reason I’m anxious to re-pot.
 
I see questionable areas...the far right to me looks like it could be scale. That isn't a shadow. Don has a bonsai nursery...he has a pretty keen eye for things. He was the first to basically question if it had scale.
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Th
I see questionable areas...the far right to me looks like it could be scale. That isn't a shadow. Don has a bonsai nursery...he has a pretty keen eye for things. He was the first to basically question if it had scale.
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I did take a look at the tree. The one spot on the right was suspicious but easily flaked off. I’ll plan on treating it topically. However, there are no additional spots.

I still think I should go ahead with the re-pot. I’d rather wait but I believe it’s current state is not ideal for the tree. Here’s pics of the bottom of the pot.

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Th

I did take a look at the tree. The one spot on the right was suspicious but easily flaked off. I’ll plan on treating it topically. However, there are no additional spots.

I still think I should go ahead with the re-pot. I’d rather wait but I believe it’s current state is not ideal for the tree. Here’s pics of the bottom of the pot.

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You may not know this. It's not unheard-of for one to set a pot into a large pot or even the ground to allow escaping roots to continue to grow.

But you are the only one who can judge the drainage on this tree. You will do what you are comfortable with...end of the day. We all make decisions on our journey that we take and live with.

I think there is another questionable smooth scale of a different shade by whatever the black is. I've not seen it before. Not normal to me.
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Well, I like what I've seen of the tree. I still agree with the one poster who would like to see the tree in its intirety. Maybe a shot with the new intended pot in front of it so we can get a visual of how it will look after repot.

For example...my pyracantha is behind the chosen pot. I'm a bit lower so I don't see the pot the tree is actually in.This will be repotted this spring. Bonsai Seeker pot.
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Certainly, I try and get a picture later today. I think some of the nebari is buried so want to get it exposed to see how to best position in the new pot.

Any reluctance to treat it for scale at the same time as a re-pot? Too much stress all at once?
 
Certainly, I try and get a picture later today. I think some of the nebari is buried so want to get it exposed to see how to best position in the new pot.

Any reluctance to treat it for scale at the same time as a re-pot? Too much stress all at once?
I tend to not repot a tree if it's got something going on. But...I play by the book...no gray area for myself. I think it's my OCD that plays a factor. I call it stacking the deck in my favor...I don't push the envelope so to speak. Like...I wouldn't repot this...with the foliage showing. BUT...ones I respect have done it to this point with the foliage open...so I do trust them. It's just not in me to do so.

As to treating for scale and a repot...Maybe someone else can jump in. I don't tend to repot if I'm dealing with something else going on. @Don Blackmond You pegged the scale issue...thoughts on treating and repotting at the same time?
 
I tend to not repot a tree if it's got something going on. But...I play by the book...no gray area for myself. I think it's my OCD that plays a factor. I call it stacking the deck in my favor...I don't push the envelope so to speak. Like...I wouldn't repot this...with the foliage showing. BUT...ones I respect have done it to this point with the foliage open...so I do trust them. It's just not in me to do so.

As to treating for scale and a repot...Maybe someone else can jump in. I don't tend to repot if I'm dealing with something else going on. @Don Blackmond You pegged the scale issue...thoughts on treating and repotting at the same time?
I was referring to the dead scale on the trunk - your right circled spot. I did think the branch circled on the left looked withered toward the outer portion but that may simply be from the photo. The black spots there did appear to be an optical illusion.
I would repot the tree, and would not shy away from full root work unless the tree showed signs of weakness. Treating for scale and repotting at the same time are perfectly fine. If the tree is weak, then just be judicious with the amount of root work. There are plenty of mild chemical treatments for scale that will have little impact on vigor and stress. You can also use soap and water, or act like a primate and groom the insects off (just don't eat them, unless you want to). The health of the tree dictates the extent of the work. Scale slowly weakens a tree; bad roots or soil quickly kills a tree.

The stage of spring growth should not stop you from working on the tree. You could repot it even if it was fully leafed out. Remove it from the pot; remove the surface weeds and soil; remove loose soil and rinse the rootball thoroughly; use a chopstick or the like to loosen compacted roots and soil; rinse thoroughly; repot with fresh soil. Do all that carefully and a fully leafed apple would be fine. You could even do minor root cutting in that scenario. In the stage of spring growth this tree is in, I would do full root work without hesitation, assuming its healthy.
 
Speak now or forever hold your peace.....

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I’m thinking first or last. I like the second but it’s the smallest and most shallow. I’ve read that crabs like space for roots.
 
I agree...they like deeper pots.

I also like the scar on the trunk, right now it seems like we are looking at the side of the tree. A tree should bow toward its viewer. You sure this is your chosen front?
 
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