To chop or not to chop?....(chopped)

Dalmat

Shohin
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This was a 5 feet telephone pole ( thicker part ). A label that was on the pot said Acer palmatum "Green globe".
When I googled it , I find that a "globe" variety is dissectum and I don't think that's the case here.
Anybody,can help with a variety ( leaf pic current, mid Spring here ). I wasn't quite interested in maples but
this was a price of a pizza opportunity, and what Max said : " I don't want to be left behind that....wagon"
There are no grafts on tree.

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what time of year did you chop? I have several maples that need chopping as well.
 
Looks like a generic green acer palmatum.
It looks to me too, but my experience on Acer palmatum is very low ,rare seeing them around here . Artropurpureum is more often to see
around here in gardens as decorative landscape plant.
 
I love that the question is answered right in the thread's title!
My favorite part of the second photo is the shadow - beautiful.
Have fun :)

The shadow is to show how much of the stump I left on branch ;)
Fun it is
 

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And a couple questions on new acquisition:
- is this Japanese maple Osakazuki like label says , or another variant (leaf close up photo)
- it looks like it's grafted,is it? Is an Osakazuki good on its own roots?
I . jm 008.jpg
jm 006.jpg

I'm planning an air layer this spring in this area (marked in blue) and should I include a ring
(marked with red arrow) and pell the bark of it too or leave the bark on it? Would that make any difference for a success of an air layer? Thanks.
 
That ring is a node. A little bit of auxin is produced by latent buds in nodes. The flow of sap in the bark is downward (toward the roots), so it will not matter to your later layer.
But removing the bark of the node will remove the auxin source(s) that keeps the cambium alive down to the next node (which is the union of that lowest branch). This may result in the cambium dying ('die-back') during the season. If this happens, you will loose the layer. This phenomenon varies a lot by cultivar. But, I think you should keep that node, cutting the girdle just above it, just to be safe.
 
That ring is a node. A little bit of auxin is produced by latent buds in nodes. The flow of sap in the bark is downward (toward the roots), so it will not matter to your later layer.
But removing the bark of the node will remove the auxin source(s) that keeps the cambium alive down to the next node (which is the union of that lowest branch). This may result in the cambium dying ('die-back') during the season. If this happens, you will loose the layer. This phenomenon varies a lot by cultivar. But, I think you should keep that node, cutting the girdle just above it, just to be safe.

Thanks Oso, can you tell , is it Osakazuki?
 
Looks like Osakazuki. Mine had one of the best fall display of colors last year. Makes lots of flowers, more than my other Japanese maples in the Spring.
 
I bought myself an Osakazuki last autumn, and would also be interested to know how well they do on their own root stock.
 
I bought myself an Osakazuki last autumn, and would also be interested to know how well they do on their own root stock.

They do perfectly well, and the colours in Autumn are beautiful.

But they have quite big leaves and long internodes, not a very good candidate for bonsai. There are so many small-leaved cultivars that have outstanding Autumn colours, you shouldn't bother unless you want an O-sakazuki as a garden/patio tree...
 
They do perfectly well, and the colours in Autumn are beautiful.

But they have quite big leaves and long internodes, not a very good candidate for bonsai. There are so many small-leaved cultivars that have outstanding Autumn colours, you shouldn't bother unless you want an O-sakazuki as a garden/patio tree...

Yeah I wasn't sure about using it for bonsai. I've got it in its nursery pot still but I've got a spot ready for it to go in, I just need to dig up whats there at the moment first!
 
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