Tiny trident

[Nybonsai12]

This trident is a the result of an airlayer not performed by myself. The can has roots coming out the bottom. I will repot next spring. The nebari is off to a great start. I'm undecided what my goal is. Part of me wants to keep it small and make a little broom as it's already on its way, but another part wants to see how far I can get the nebari to spread, even if it takes years. Thoughts, comments appreciated.

 

[Dirty Nails]

Why are making a broom and developing nebari mutually exclusive? You have the makings of a great little tree there.

 

[Nybonsai12]

Why are making a broom and developing nebari mutually exclusive?

I would think that if I'm going to keep it the current size and pot it as a small broom it would not lead to fast expansion of roots/nebari growth, correct? If I wanted one of those massive spreading sumo types would it be best to let the top grow while nailing over a tile or something similar.

 

[JudyB]

I would work this as the very nice small tree that it has potential to become, and get a larger trunk to work your larger "sumo" type tree. Tridents are not so rare that you'll have trouble finding one, that will accomplish your other goal with in far less time. And your nebari will still keep spreading, even in a pot, but it will stay in scale with your small broom idea, which is a good thing.

When I look at a tree, I try to see what it's best potential is, and go with that. The tree knows what it wants to be... (most of the time.)

 

[Nybonsai12]

I would work this as the very nice small tree that it has potential to become, and get a larger trunk to work your larger "sumo" type tree. Tridents are not so rare that you'll have trouble finding one, that will accomplish your other goal with in far less time. And your nebari will still keep spreading, even in a pot, but it will stay in scale with your small broom idea, which is a good thing.

When I look at a tree, I try to see what it's best potential is, and go with that. The tree knows what it wants to be... (most of the time.)

Thanks judy, your input is much appreciated.

 

[GrimLore]

You could spread the roots out a little in the Spring and reduce them enough to put in a shallow trainer(encourage horizontal growth). I am guessing you will find some nice ones to expose day one. Then continue training it as a broom perhaps... It is a nice tree and will continue to be without fattening it

Grimmy

 

[Stan Kengai]

As Grim alluded to, planting in a wide, shallow container, combing out the surface roots, and removing all lower roots is the best method for developing (believable) nebari. You may be able to do this in one sitting, but it often times takes 2 or more transplants to get the surface roots strong enough to remove all lower roots. Also, it may seem counter-intuitive, but you want to remove the largest of the surface roots during the first few transplants. With each transplant (after the initial), your goal is to raise the crown slightly and expose a bit of the surface roots.

 

[lordy]

here's something to shoot for. Beautiful little tree belonging to a clubmember.

 

[StarTurtle]

You could take cuttings, then use them as approach grafts to develop the nebari faster.

From what I see I would keep it Mame size.

 

[JudyB]

here's something to shoot for. Beautiful little tree belonging to a clubmember.

Nice!!!!!!!

 

[Nybonsai12]

Is the consensus that it would be better to start shaping and prune with a light wiring after leaf drop this fall, or wait and do it all at time of repot in the spring?

 

[Nybonsai12]

You could take cuttings, then use them as approach grafts to develop the nebari faster.

From what I see I would keep it Mame size.

I believe it's already past the point of Mame..isn't that 3 inches or under?

 

[JudyB]

Is the consensus that it would be better to start shaping and prune with a light wiring after leaf drop this fall, or wait and do it all at time of repot in the spring?

I would wire anytime after dormancy, but hold off till potting or late winter for pruning.

 

[Nybonsai12]

but hold off till potting or late winter for pruning.

Thanks again Judy, is the reasoning for this because of the potential for dieback of branches?

 

[lordy]

I agree with Judy regarding the timing of pruning in general. Dormancy along with cold windy weather for extended periods can cause dieback by itself. If you prune now, additional dieback will likely occur, so you may as well just wait and cut when the sap is getting ready to flow. That is a condition that promotes growth, not dieback.
I think you have a really nice starting point for a small shohin, like the one I showed a few posts back. Looking at the canopy of yours, there are several long shoots that, if pruned to the sameish length as the shorter foliage ball, would look very much like a tree in nature. And I also think the base is well on it's way to being something very attractive as the tree ages. Nice grab!

 

[JudyB]

what he said...^^^

Also disease can get into cuts that you make when the tree is in dormancy, that it won't be able to wall off or heal until it starts to grow again.

 

[Nybonsai12]

I figured I would update to show the tree bare. Trunk shows nothing spectacular at all. Not much of any taper, bulging at the top. The base is nice enough with the spread its got going on though. Few more weeks and I'll repot into something shallow, on a tile or in a colander and remove what I don't want. I don't really see broom anymore with this and will likely cut down to get some taper. Comments thoughts appreciated as always.

 

[sorce]

I like this lil bugger.

Looks like you could be a bit more diligent In removing buds before you get growth in wrong areas.
Let that energy go to your final design.

I see this.
Let these 2 go for a while, then start those green shoots for your next section .

Probly a good time to cut those wounds flush for good healing to. Mainly the one in front of the bic.

Sorce

 

[MACH5]

What sorce did by tilting the trunk is something that it's usually overlooked. This can make a world of difference in giving a bonsai a more dynamic design. This is specially very easy to do with young developing trees.

 

[Nybonsai12]

Admittedly design is something I have a tough time with, moreso than other aspects. I haven't yet taken trees from rough stock to finished tree on my own. I have a few that are in process entirely on my own, but no true outcomes yet. The planting angle change isn't something that I think of initially on most trees.

As to this tree, the nebari is spread pretty decent radially. With changing the angle it would require part of it to be buried, right? What would be the appropriate action to develop and still have a quality base?