The Obsession and Another Cotoneaster Nursery Stock

NaturalArt

Sapling
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Location
Colorado, USA
USDA Zone
5b
Hey guys!

I recently got back into the hobby after getting discouraged by my apparent bonsai (really pre-bonsai) black thumb, I have decided to focus all my attention on cotoneasters. We will see how hardy they really are.

But, I picked up a 5-gallon nursery stock Cotoneaster horizontalis 'Rock Spray' for $40 and, oh boy, I am excited about this one so I wanted to share and get some opinions.

I picked it out because it had a decent sized trunk and a funny looking knob, turns out that funny looking knob was a whole mess of wacky roots - and I love it.

I gave it a quick haircut since it was a huge shrubby ball to start..
Then dug out the surface roots..
IMG_20200730_172847.jpgIMG_20200730_172839.jpgIMG_20200730_172914.jpgIMG_20200730_172835.jpg

Found what I thought to be the best trunk line combined with root structure and made a few more cuts to highlight its curves..

IMG_20200730_180251.jpg
And.. now I'm stuck, here's a few ideas of where I may decide to take this tree..
1. IMG_20200730_180206 copy.jpgIMG_20200730_180209.jpg
This would follow more of a semi-cascade style, and I would have to decide whether to remove one or both of the lower branches on the right.

2.IMG_20200730_180206 copy2.jpgIMG_20200730_180209 copy.jpg
This would follow more of an informal upright style, in this case I would probably keep one of the lower right branches, but I could be persuaded not to.

Which mostly comes down to where I cut this branch, drastically changing the trunk line..
IMG_20200730_180124.jpg

Lot's to consider with this one, would love to hear what you guys think!
 
I like keeping low branches. I grew up with a massive oak - the branches looked low enough you could just reach up and touch them, but they were actually too high to touch when jumping (I was 6-feet tall when my parents moved away from that property). Also reading Brent's articles on Evergreen Gardenworks, he states that Cotoneaster should have lower branches than other varieties. I'd keep that lower branch and wire it down like you are exploring in the last pic. At least for now, it would help the trunk thicken and taper.

I don't know if you have a picture of this angle in your original post, but I wonder what the complete opposite side (180-degree rotation) looks like compared to your intended front? I like the intended front, but I don't like that crossing root. It looks like crossed legs and creates a bulge at the top of the nebari. I don't know if it is too fused too remove (or reposition).

Nice tree and nice movement! I'll be interested to see what you do with this!
 
I think most of your proposed styles will work. I am with @JonW - I would at least initially go with styles that remove the least amount of foliage.

What disturbs me is the exposed roots. This tree needs to be potted deeper. Young trees in early development need to keep the nebari buring if you want to develop a radial root spread. This raised up position will result in a "volcano" mound of unattractive roots. At first opportunity bury this tree lower, so all those roots are hidden. If you don't, and in the future you decide you want a radial root spread, you simply will not be able to develop a more refined root spread (nebari). You will be stuck with the "ugly volcano". Bury it now, and you can develop a radial pattern of roots over the years.
 
@JonW Thank you for your insight! I definitely agree with keeping one of the lower branches. It may be hard to tell in the original pictures but it is actually two branches that originate from the same point, so I would have to make a decision about which one to keep - either way I would wire it down.
IMG_20200730_174727.jpg

The 180 from the intended front actually makes the bulge look worse, I did consider removing that top root but it is pretty fused and it would likely take a bit of carving, it's definitely not going to budge to be re-positioned unfortunately.
IMG_20200731_112124.jpg

Thanks again for your insight, I appreciate it!
 
@Leo in N E Illinois Thank you for your insight! Not to worry, I was not planning on keeping the roots exposed as they are. I just uncovered them to get an idea of what I may have to work with so I could begin to form a plan for this tree.

Thanks again!
 
@JonW Correction, I meant to say I considered removing the bottom root, i.e. the root that is forming that bulge.
 
Yeah, the bulge is worse, but if you decide to remove that crossing branch, and its bulge, it would look good from the "back." I think the roots might look nicer on the back, though who knows what will develop over time. The current front is more open in terms of top-growth, and has a back branch you'd probably have to lose if you switched your front... good to have options though.
 
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@JonW Agreed, my concern then is that the angle of the tree would then be brought forward towards you and I would lose some of the movement of the leader branch. Potting at an angle may alleviate that some.
 
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