THE BJORN MAPLE

[MACH5]

This is a new tree purchased from Bjorn last year. A 50 year old Japanese maple probably standard green variety. It had been at Kouka-en nursery for some time and eventually made its way to the US. At first, it was difficult to tell from the pics that Bjorn sent me that it had a massive trunk of four solid inches about 2" up the trunk and a base at soil level of 7". It is just shy of 14" high. Very powerful kifu sized tree and quite heavy for its size! I intent to repot it as soon as weather warms up but will also depend if I can find a good pot for it. Currently planted in a Chinese container.

Below are different views of the tree as it looked before refinement work began.

Intended original front











Here, after refinement work with detailed wiring and shoot and branch selection for future development. A few areas need to be extended as well as encourage back budding closer to the trunk along a few of the main branch lines. The tree was also rotated a bit for a slightly revised front viewing angle.


















Before and after





I full autumn glory (and as it faded into dormancy) during last year with a bright and showy orange coloration.

 

[M. Frary]

Wow.

 

[Cadillactaste]

WOWZER!

 

[j evans]

Nice Tree I like the second photo the best for the front. The jog in the trunk doesn't seem so obvious.

 

[barrosinc]

What's the plan for the tree?
It is a very powerful small sized tree, but the difference in width bothers me a bit. I wouldn't mind a sacrifice branch to make the transition smoother. Did that cross your mind?

 

[clive bennett]

superb tree

 

[Les]

Sweet maple, I like the picture with the tool by the tree because it shows just how big the tree really is.

 

[fredtruck]

I've been looking at your wiring, MACH5. I don't know anybody who does it better. The turns in the wire are evenly spaced. It's just superb!

 

[MACH5]

Nice Tree I like the second photo the best for the front. The jog in the trunk doesn't seem so obvious.

Yes but.... the problem with using that angle is that the top portion is at the back end of the tree going way away from us. There is also a thick branch coming straight at you.

 

[MACH5]

What's the plan for the tree?
It is a very powerful small sized tree, but the difference in width bothers me a bit. I wouldn't mind a sacrifice branch to make the transition smoother. Did that cross your mind?

It does to me as well as yes I have some thoughts about how to approach it. I will/can use a sacrifice branch to help thicken the upper portion. But I do intend to use it in combination with a few other strategies. The first is to injure the cambium with a sharp tool like a pair of scissors making small incisions right at the area that needs thickening. This must be done regularly to be effective but unsure as to its effectiveness as I have not tried this myself. Will try this first and see its results. It's easy and will leave essentially no scars. A more aggressive version of this would be to make a longitudinal cut and the resulting callous thickens the area. This I have done with good results but does leave a scar. In time, however, it will blend in with the rest of the bark. It must also be done carefully because it can easily leave you with an ugly looking bump.

A second possible strategy is to do a thread graft right at the intended area. That branch is then allowed to grow freely to help thicken the target area. Then it can be cut off or perhaps kept. I like this approach as the branch will thicken only what's below it not affecting what's above.

As they say, Rome was not built in a day!

 

[barrosinc]

It does to me as well as yes I have some thoughts about how to approach it. I will/can use a sacrifice branch to help thicken the upper portion. But I do intend to use it in combination with a few other strategies. The first is to injure the cambium with a sharp tool like a pair of scissors making small incisions right at the area that needs thickening. This must be done regularly to be effective but unsure as to its effectiveness as I have not tried this myself. Will try this first and see its results. It's easy and will leave essentially no scars. A more aggressive version of this would be to make a longitudinal cut and the resulting callous thickens the area. This I have done with good results but does leave a scar. In time, however, it will blend in with the rest of the bark. It must also be done carefully because it can easily leave you with an ugly looking bump.

A second possible strategy is to do a thread graft right at the intended area. That branch is then allowed to grow freely to help thicken the target area. Then it can be cut off or perhaps kept. I like this approach as the branch will thicken only what's below it not affecting what's above.

As they say, Rome was not built in a day!

cool, thanks for the reply.

 

[markyscott]

Sergio - you don't have enough Japanese Maples. Have you considered buying more for you collection?

 

[MACH5]

Sergio - you don't have enough Japanese Maples. Have you considered buying more for you collection?

It's a sick addiction Scott!! I need help. But then again we all need help??!! Colin Lewis sent me an email the other day telling me he has this nice large maple clump and asked if I was interested. UGH!! Please go away Colin! Of course... I told him I'd love to take a peek. Just a look of course and nothing else (right!). The only antidote to this maple sickness is of course to buy... conifers! A few waiting in the wings. So take that maples!

 

[wireme]

It does to me as well as yes I have some thoughts about how to approach it. I will/can use a sacrifice branch to help thicken the upper portion. But I do intend to use it in combination with a few other strategies. The first is to injure the cambium with a sharp tool like a pair of scissors making small incisions right at the area that needs thickening. This must be done regularly to be effective but unsure as to its effectiveness as I have not tried this myself. Will try this first and see its results. It's easy and will leave essentially no scars. A more aggressive version of this would be to make a longitudinal cut and the resulting callous thickens the area. This I have done with good results but does leave a scar. In time, however, it will blend in with the rest of the bark. It must also be done carefully because it can easily leave you with an ugly looking bump.

A second possible strategy is to do a thread graft right at the intended area. That branch is then allowed to grow freely to help thicken the target area. Then it can be cut off or perhaps kept. I like this approach as the branch will thicken only what's below it not affecting what's above.

As they say, Rome was not built in a day!

I couldn't help but wonder if there might be a way to just remove it rather than fix it.? Branch I used starts to low or off to a side probably?

 

[Mellow Mullet]

This is a new tree purchased from Bjorn last year. A 50 year old Japanese maple probably standard green variety. It had been at Kouka-en nursery for some time and eventually made its way to the US. At first, it was difficult to tell from the pics that Bjorn sent me that it had a massive trunk of four solid inches about 2" up the trunk and a base at soil level of 7". It is just shy of 14" high. Very powerful kifu sized tree and quite heavy for its size! I intent to repot it as soon as weather warms up but will also depend if I can find a good pot for it. Currently planted in a Chinese container.

Below are different views of the tree as it looked before refinement work began.

Intended original front











Here, after refinement work with detailed wiring and shoot and branch selection for future development. A few areas need to be extended as well as encourage back budding closer to the trunk along a few of the main branch lines. The tree was also rotated a bit for a slightly revised front viewing angle.


















Before and after





I full autumn glory (and as it faded into dormancy) during last year with a bright and showy orange coloration.

Awesome, that orange is nice, especially in the blue pot. I see what you mean about wiring the tips up it does make a world of difference.

 

[Cadillactaste]

I still can't get over how BIG it is in such a compact body.

 

[MACH5]

I couldn't help but wonder if there might be a way to just remove it rather than fix it.? Branch I used starts to low or off to a side probably? View attachment 136576

Thanks for the virt wireme! The branch used in your sketch, if bent upwards to make a new top for the tree would be very difficult to do since it is very thick and short to effectively give it a drastic bend upwards without snapping it (please refer to fourth pic down). The other issue is that, even if there was a way to do this effectively, this new top would be way up in front. The tree could be tilted way back but then it would heavily sacrifice the nice root flare at the back, etc.

 

[MACH5]

Awesome, that orange is nice, especially in the blue pot. I see what you mean about wiring the tips up it does make a world of difference.

Eventually it gives you a nice undulating branch structure that correlates well with how deciduous trees grow. My own personal preference is to use a variety of approaches (ie. clip and grow) with wiring to give you the most variety of angles and interesting lines in your branch structure.

 

[MACH5]

I still can't get over how BIG it is in such a compact body.

Darlene it is quite a nice tree in person. The original pics did not do it any justice but I did/do trust Bjorn. When he brought it to the Nationals last year, I was impressed with its powerful presence despite its compact size. I did not expect it to be quite so massive.

 

[Chuah]

Simply gorgeous, Sergio. Envy the fall colors you have.