Sure-K...liquid potassium

[Cadillactaste]

Darlene,

There are certainly plenty of backwoods marijuana growers who don't know much about the science of growing plants. If you live in a relatively warm area (including Ohio), it's pretty easy to just plant marijuana seeds in the garden and get robust, healthy plants. Yes, I did this back in my college days so I'm speaking from experience.

But, nowadays there are many who have developed very advanced techniques of marijuana growing, mostly indoors, using lights, and either potted in largely soil-less media (like bonsai) or using hydroponic techniques. Those are the people whose opinions I would seek out, and they can be found all over the internet. Many forums are devoted to this topic. And since they are interested in producing buds...just as you are...there is probably something to be learned there.

Anyway, regarding the wisteria...I don't have any wisteria bonsai at this time, but many members of the local club grow them (and bloom them) successfully, including Bill V. He is having an open house next weekend and I'll try to remember to ask about how he fertilizes them. I know he uses the high P fertilizer (like 10-50-10 or something similar) but I can't remember ever seeing any of the high K fertilizers at his place.

Chris

I have been feeding high P all year. But can't grasp the fault one can get from feeding high P and K. Since the five I know aren't seeing any ill effects. One 30 years success. Just wasn't able to locate a brand prior to my purchase. My minds eye...to not find fault in ones finding success doing such and seeing great results with their own wisteria bonsai. I'm curious if it just helps water intake and such. Overall healthy tree plus racemes is my desires. I don't mean to offend ones...but I can't see the benefits of research of marijuana when I can follow what others with wisteria bonsai are doing. Even if it makes no rhyme or reason...

 

[Cadillactaste]

E="Desert Rat, post: 282066, member: 19078"]Have you tried it without the tray of water? What percentage of inorganic/organic are you using?

EDIT: in my above post (#16) I meant to say "if it's inorganic and you're not meeting the requirements"[/QUOTE]
Everyone I know adds a tray of water in the heat of summer. Everything I've read states to do this. Last season I didn't do it and my leaves suffered.

 

[coh]

Great, do as you will.

I make no claims about knowing the factors that trigger wisteria to bloom. Age is definitely a factor, but once they reach maturity and start blooming they should continue. I've read that keeping them potbound and doing heavy root pruning can trigger them to bloom, I've read that using high P can help...never heard about using high K. Have heard that high N can be detrimental.

People definitely keep them in saucers of water during the summer around here.

Anyway, if I come back from the open house with any additional insights I'll try to remember to post them.

Chris

 

[Cadillactaste]

Well...only Paul stated high P&K. The others add potash when going into fall.

Potash = potassium

Your correct with Nitrogen. Though maybe mine didn't bloom this year because it had been root pruned the season before and STILL bloomed the same year.But again goofed and fed nitrogen. So figured that was the cause. Hopefully I see blooms next season. It looks healthier than my landscape wisteria right now. Figured its the tray of water helping it out. For last year they both were looking rough at this time.

 

[Cadillactaste]

Thanks Chris...I would be interested in what he does with his wisteria.

 

[Desert Rat]

Everyone I know adds a tray of water in the heat of summer. Everything I've read states to do this. Last season I didn't do it and my leaves suffered.

Have you taken a look at the roots? Sounds like a recipe for disaster. Everyone I know with a Wisteria doesn't use a water tray, and they're in warmer climates than you. I'd sacrifice a few crispy leaves in August for a healthier root system that efficiently can exchange air.

Which sounds like what you've been trying to do anyhow.

Also, to add to the whole thread, Nitrogen is not detrimental to the health of the tree, but will definitely boost vegetative growth of shoots and leaves. Certainly won't kill the tree though.

 

[coh]

Have you taken a look at the roots? Sounds like a recipe for disaster. Everyone I know with a Wisteria doesn't use a water tray, and they're in warmer climates than you. I'd sacrifice a few crispy leaves in August for a healthier root system that efficiently can exchange air.

Which sounds like what you've been trying to do anyhow.

Also, to add to the whole thread, Nitrogen is not detrimental to the health of the tree, but will definitely boost vegetative growth of shoots and leaves. Certainly won't kill the tree though.

Article from Michael Hagedorn is interesting. In part:

"Give your tree a lot of water by immersion of the lower part of the pot in water during summer. DO NOT leave them soaking year round. Without resting the pot in a basin of water the tree won’t flower much the next year. Oddly, the roots don’t rot. (In Japan they have watering drones called apprentices, who can water in their sleep if necessary. If you don’t own a drone, and don’t wish to water 28 times a day yourself, it is perhaps best to use the immerse technique for the summer growing season.)"

He also suggests allowing too much tendril growth may cause them to revert to non-flowering. I hadn't heard that one before. Doesn't say anything about applying high P or K. What he says is to fertilize heavily right after blooming but cut way back in July.

http://crataegus.com/2012/01/06/why-wont-my-wisteria-bloom/

Interesting discussion. I'm paying attention because I do have a couple of wisteria in the grow bed for future use...

Chris

 

[M. Frary]

. If you don’t own a drone,

Where can one purchase one of these?

 

[sorce]

Beer After liquor. Liquor after beer.
Too hard to remember.

Joint after joint....
All is well.

My guy went to Oaksterdam. The university for growing.

You can learn a ton from these fellers.
A California echo.

Most of which is very usable knowledge.

Sorce

 

[barrosinc]

Beer After liquor. Liquor after beer.
Too hard to remember.

Joint after joint....
All is well.

My guy went to Oaksterdam. The university for growing.

You can learn a ton from these fellers.
A California echo.

Most of which is very usable knowledge.

Sorce

...I definitely need a Sorce to Spanish translator!

 

[armetisius]

...I definitely need a Sorce to Spanish translator!

Max,
I do too and I don't speak Spanish.
But Google can fix the Spanish problem
if I could just get it translated into Spanish.
Just joking.
Sorce sometimes jokes too.

 

[sorce]

Max,
I do too and I don't speak Spanish.
But Google can fix the Spanish problem
if I could just get it translated into Spanish.
Just joking.
Sorce sometimes jokes too.

Lol.

I drink cuz they buy.

But weed is better.

My friend knows a lot about growing and I use that knowledge if I can.

Smoke says the same things about fertilizer. Cali .

Sorce

 

[barrosinc]

Lol.

I drink cuz they buy.

But weed is better.

My friend knows a lot about growing and I use that knowledge if I can.

Smoke says the same things about fertilizer. Cali .

Sorce

I'm quitting English.

Mejor en español.

Qué chucha escribe Sorce.

Mejor quemo mi computador.

Max

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

I hesitate to wade into this discussion, there is so much bad information out there that people believe as gospel truth that any discussion is guaranteed to start a flame war. But I will toss one or two grenades, then I'll leave the room

For what it is worth, plants can't read the labels, potassium is the same to the plants regardless the source. However, the big issues is for the grower to be able to dilute concentrates to the right dose for the trees. If it is working for you, keep using it.
Virtually all eukaryote plants actually use nutrients in roughly the same ratios. An idealized fertilizer would deliver roughly 12 : 1.6 : 4 this is all the plants themselves use. An ideal fertilizer would have a formula similar to that. Check MSU (michigan state university) references for the horticultural crop science references. Don't check gardening websites as they often just repeat findings done at Kew in research done in the 1880s. Read the modern, industry orientated research. Pay attention to recommendations for potted plant producers, using inert media, lots of good info.

I use a fertilizer that is based on this formula, with all the other MSU recommended macro and micro nutrients, such as calcium, magnesium, sulfur and copper, and the usual trace nutrients such as zinc, molybdenum, etc. I am very happy with my plant's nutritional health. Great color in needles and leaves. I use this formula year round, never switch it up. I reduce the amount in winter, but no change in ratios. I don't have wisteria, but flowering quince, azalea, and pomegranate bloom just fine for me.

The reason other formulations and methods work without killing our trees is because we water our trees often with clear water or they get rain water. These clear water flushes remove excess and unbalanced concentrations of nutrients before they can cause much harm to the plants. That is why Walter Pall's method works, & I admit his method works, but if you dosed fertilizer like Walter Pall does, and did not flush with clear water the next day, you would likely begin to see damage. But think about it. There is a lot of wasted nutrients being flushed to the ground with these old, out of balanced formulations.

if you grow in a greenhouse, where rain water does not flush nutrient imbalances out of your plants, you will likely have more nutrition issues, and should explore what I just said. Products are out there, contact me via PM or email if you want more about continuous feeding in a greenhouse or indoor setting.

i'm Tired of thumb typing, more at a later date
Leo