Styling Advice for Chinese Elm

Posty

Seedling
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Los Angeles, CA
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10b
Hi, I got this tree from a big box store to practice keeping alive. I want to use it to learn branch structure while all my other cuttings grow out.
I have two main questions with this tree: removing branches and healing chops.

I understand branches should only ever split from 1->2, so would it be correct to remove any extra branches coming out of joints (examples highlighted in red)?

What options do I have for cleaning up the trunk chop wound (circled in blue)? I was thinking dremel and cut paste?

I think the tree is overgrown and should be cut back in late winter, but I am apprehensive to remove the thicker branches as I don't fully understand styling yet.

Appreciate any advice :)
 

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I would start with a different question. What direction would you like to take for developing the trunk line and design? In order to answer that question I would explore the nebari and check the angles and options available!
The reason for this is when the tree is repotted and eventually placed in a Bonsai pot the desired front, trunk line and development potential may be ruined by previous decisions made without considering the above first.
Step one might be to carefully repot and explore the nebari and trunk line this spring! if a clear plan develops at that point it may also be a good time to reduce branching, further develop the trunk line.
 
Thanks @River's Edge ! That makes a lot of sense. I'm building a larger wooden box to move it into in spring so I'll do root and branch work at the same time. I would like the final tree to be taller so I may try to redefine a leader I suppose and let it grow out a few seasons.
 
I've given it more consideration and identified what I think are two options for moving forward.


The first is low and wide, kind of Acacia-esque, and leans into the multiple thick branches that the trunk splits into currently. I would only remove out of line and crossing branches to better define some pads.
IMG_4525.jpeg

The second is much more dramatic, making a cut at the red line and committing to the new trunk line in green. There are a couple branches I might keep but mostly would be starting fresh.
IMG_4528.jpeg

I'm leaning toward the second option to give a taller tree and more branch options in the future. Though I'm hesitant to remove that much growth and the additional years I'd be adding to the progression.

I'm curious if anyone has a different assessment!
 
Both choices look perfectly legitimate and do-able.
In that case your preference would sway the decision toward the last option.

Aim for the best and do not worry about years. The years flow by naturally but a 2nd rate bonsai will be with you for a long time.

Did you check the surface roots before deciding on this option? Chinese elms often grow just a couple of fat roots from the trunk. If you don't want to start a new root system by layering it is a good idea to select a front based on what the roots look like as well as branching.
If you decide to continue with this plan, I would suggest using that thick branch as a sacrifice branch to help speed up development of option 2 rather than cutting it off right now. I'd start by removing almost all the secondary branches off it - at least any that are growing in toward the tree you want. Allow a few leaders at the end to grow without any pruning. They will help thicken the lower section of the trunk which will add much needed taper.
 
Aim for the best and do not worry about years. The years flow by naturally but a 2nd rate bonsai will be with you for a long time.
Thank you :)

I have not checked the roots yet but plan to before I make any final decision.
To be certain, you're talking about using the branch highlighted in pink as a sacrifice branch to speed up option 2, correct?
 

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You've given me a completely different angle this time so hard to work out which bits are which from the previous shots.
The pink branch would work as a sacrifice branch provided you don't need it in the final tree but that's not the one we were talking about earlier.
The thicker branch, previously marked with a red cut line is the one I identified as a potential sacrifice branch because it is low and marked for removal anyway. I think its toward the front in the new photo and has 2 red lines?
 
Ah, I understand what you are saying now. That makes sense. Thank you!
 
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