spider mite control

The Bayer products pictured, both should work. The active ingredients listed the second one is the miticide. The list of active ingredients is the same for both products. I would apply, check in 30 days, if mites are still present do a second dose.

But the Bayer product should work.

The Tau-Fluvalinate? Or however it's spelled? Lol
 
We should not be confused in thinking that plants that grow and produce fruit are healthy.

Mites and sucking insects are the pests that infest the weakest plants.

Control to me is prevention.

Get your brix up.


Or spray, spray, and die away.

Sorce
 
Insecticides - a difficult topic. Remember, if mites as a general term or specific as spider mites, flat mites, 2 spot mites, etc are not listed on the label, then the pesticide will not kill them.

The really potent miticides are often quite expensive. I purchase chemicals from Hummert out of St Louis, they seem to be relatively lax about requiring copies of pesticide applicator licenses. Some states will not let you purchase what Missouri seems to allow.

http://www.hummert.com

Go to chemicals section, you will find listings for miticides and insecticides mixed on the same page. You will have to read the on line labels of each to decide what is right for you. Look for dose rates, often a really expensive pesticide might work out for you because the cost per application is low.

Some of the less expensive pesticides specific as miticides

Akari 5 SC group 21 Fenpyroximate - good quick kill and 30 day residual activity for all mites, and mealy bugs and white fly. About $170 per quart, which will be quite a few applications, depending on how often you spray outdoors. Will last a lifetime for your indoor collection.

Minx2 - 2% Abamectin - interesting fermentation product from Streptomyces - mode of action is an anti-feedant - causes mites to stop feeding and starve. $68 per quart, a good one to try especially if your mites have developed some resistance to Group 3 pyrethroids. Safe for beneficial insects and safe for honey bees if applied to avoid feeding time for bees.

Acephate 97 UP - water dispersible dry powder) _ an old line organophosphate - broad spectrum miticide / insecticide. Cheap, - main issue is there are human neurologic effects from repeated exposure to most of the organophosphates. Wear proper safety gear. Mites can be resistant in areas where this was commonly used in agriculture. Not bee safe.

Pyrethrins - the group 3 synthetic pyrethrins are moderately to very effective against mites - problems are mainly that in areas of repeated use by agriculture resistant populations of mites may have developed. Over all not too expensive, relatively safe for home use depending on formulation and labeling.

- Mavrik - group 3 Pyrethroid - I have used this on my orchids for years. Good knock down, good residual for 14 days+, a tank mix with Minx2 might be very effective for near total kill.
- Talstar P 7.9% - group 3a pyrethroid - mites and insects - safe for use in food handling areas in addition to interior landscapes and greenhouses.
- Tempo SC Ultra - group 3 pyrethroid kills mites and insects - fairly concentrated, about $64 per 240 ml (about one quart).

Group 20 - Acequinocyl - a different mode of action, good alternate if resistance is an issue.

Shuttle O - group 20 - rapid knock down and long lasting residual control of all stages of mites, all species of mites. About $175 per pint.

Sevin is sometimes advocated for mites. - It is group 1 Carbamate in terms of mode of action, this is a very ''old line'' pesticide. It's mite control is effective only if the population has not been repeatedly exposed to it. It is very toxic to bees. It is very toxic to aquatic insects, not to be used where run off will enter streams. It can work, but there are a lot of down sides to it. It is cheap.

So - these are some mite specific alternatives for miticides.

The most interesting and very narrowly focused on mites with little in the way of effects on other creatures is the Minx 2 - Abamectin. This or a similar label for Abamectin will probably be my next choice for a miticide when I exhaust the one I have on the shelf right now.
Stumbled upon this thread and thank you very much for the detailed information and suggestions. It's that season again!
 
I remember putting a lot of time into that post, thank you, I'm glad it is appreciated. Pests and pesticides are evolving. That information is a couple years old, but since I sold the farm and retired a second time , I have not been keeping up with pesticides the way I used to.

In every county in the USA there is an Ag Extension office, and information like the above is made available through those offices for farmers. Most of this is also on line through the Ag Extension services, it just takes some digging.

Please update that table if you discover new products.
 
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