Species Study - Taxodium distichum

How’s this for taper?
East coast of Florida, not sure if this is a location thing or what but they put the ones by me on the west coast to shame.
 

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I've been fascinated with this particular species. If you do a search on BonsaiNut, there are so many threads and posts on this species.
I found so much information on this thread: https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/2019-season-bc-yamadori-mega-thread-d.36707/
And much inspiration from this thread: https://www.bonsainut.com/threads/bald-cypress.30848/
After playing with this species for a few years I have learned some lessons.
  1. Forget about trying to grow BC from cuttings. Growing them from seeds is actually much much faster for most of us.
  2. BC from the big box stores (Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart) and most nurseries have poor taper comparing to those grown from seeds myself. From seeds I can get to the size usually sold at the big box in less than 2 years (18 month average) and mine have much better taper and root spreads.
  3. Jury is still out on the dunking or not dunking. My sample experience of growing about 100 BCs so far (20 dunked, 20 not dunked, and 60 in ground) is inconclusive between the dunked and not dunked. However, the 40 in pots have more of my care and fertilization grew much faster than the plant it and forget it 60 in the ground. I suppose if I fertilize the ones in the ground they would grow fast too but I never did it.
  4. Don't be afraid of bare rooting BCs. I recommend checking and sorting out the roots of the seedling after the first year to make sure you have even root spread.
  5. Keep your soil shallow. If you transplant your BC and bury it too deep, it will readily form roots higher up the tree. You wind up with multi-tier roots that look wonky. Unless you desire wonky roots for your own design, don't do it.
  6. It is hard to develop the swamp buttress growing BCs in pot. If you really really want that buttress, get a collected BC.
  7. Don't be afraid to reach out to the members of BonsaiNut . The names of the distinguished members who know a lot about BCs are in the thread I list above.
Let me know what you have learned. I just collected some hulking stumps and will be documenting my finding in the future.
I cant figure out how to make my own post on here. But its you I want opinion of. How did I do?
 

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I cant figure out how to make my own post on here. But its you I want opinion of. How did I do?
You have a reverse taper formed from allowing too many branches at the chop mark that will not go away. I will wait to spring and just before bud break do one of the following.
1. Carve away the reverse taper.
2. Rechop the tree as shown in picture below.

By the way, I would also report the tree into a shallower but wider pot in the spring as well. To me next spring is the time to set the structure for your tree to become a good BC bonsai in the future.

Rusti01.png
 
You have a reverse taper formed from allowing too many branches at the chop mark that will not go away. I will wait to spring and just before bud break do one of the following.
1. Carve away the reverse taper.
2. Rechop the tree as shown in picture below.

By the way, I would also report the tree into a shallower but wider pot in the spring as well. To me next spring is the time to set the structure for your tree to become a good BC bonsai in the fu
 
Thanks for your input. I'm not as brave. I'm just the caretaker of this inherited tree. I'll take your suggestions into consideration. I'll probably stick to my modifictions for the next year? What would be the new leader with your design and might not that result in another bulge? The lower one is the site of the graft. But its prety smooth as far as grafts go. Its been in that pot as long as I can remember.
 
Thanks for your input. I'm not as brave. I'm just the caretaker of this inherited tree. I'll take your suggestions into consideration. I'll probably stick to my modifictions for the next year? What would be the new leader with your design and might not that result in another bulge? The lower one is the site of the graft. But its prety smooth as far as grafts go. Its been in that pot as long as I can remember.
You can select one new bud near the current chop for a new apex next year and shave away the reverse taper later. That would be a conservative approach.
 
You can select one new bud near the current chop for a new apex next year and shave away the reverse taper later. That would be a conservative approach.
Thanks for your help. I think I'm done for now? I'll wait to see what new leader presents itself. I might escavate the base a little and remove those surface roots what I call "elbows"The reverse taper is not that noticeable from most angles.
 

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Other than weeding and enjoying the color change in the leaves, there is not much to do for bald cypress in early fall. I am reducing watering and soon with take my BCs out of their water bath.
 
Other than weeding and enjoying the color change in the leaves, there is not much to do for bald cypress in early fall. I am reducing watering and soon with take my BCs out of their water bath.
I bring some of my montezuma ones inside. Others that I left out are still green with no signs of losing leaves let alone bald. HEHE! Infact ones I've had in stowage some kept their leaves all winter. My well lit shed where I keep them is attached to the house. But in long periods of cold pots do freeze in there? Its remarkable since the Montezuma ones are suposedly from even south of you? My tree in question was supposed to be the chinese swamp cypress Glyptostrobus pensilis. I'm not sure if it can actually be grafted onto our regular one? But very interesting and similar tree. What my father grafted was the "nutans" ascendens. I think you informed me of that? Seems like some supliers were taking advanage of him in the end? Even though he was a "plants man of the world".
We have a bog in our botanical gardens full of bald cypress. Here a photo after most of the snow had melted.
 

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I have shown multiple BCs with bottom splits. It is now my preferred method to create trunk flares on juvenile BCs or BCs grown on dry land. Below is pictures of a BC base split after just one year. The splits are almost completely healed. They also have a flute like appearance.
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I have shown multiple BCs with bottom splits. It is now my preferred method to create trunk flares on juvenile BCs or BCs grown on dry land. Below is pictures of a BC base split after just one year. The splits are almost completely healed. They also have a flute like appearance.
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These look awesome Uncle!
 
I have shown multiple BCs with bottom splits. It is now my preferred method to create trunk flares on juvenile BCs or BCs grown on dry land. Below is pictures of a BC base split after just one year. The splits are almost completely healed. They also have a flute like appearance.
View attachment 572251View attachment 572252View attachment 572253View attachment 572254View attachment 572255View attachment 572256
Seems a bit counterproductive when I'm trying to shrink my tree while raising it up at the same time? Just kidding. Its probably floodings and wash outs then many end up looking like that in nature? Thats my theory about the knees. They protect the base and trap debris?
 
Seems a bit counterproductive when I'm trying to shrink my tree while raising it up at the same time? Just kidding. Its probably floodings and wash outs then many end up looking like that in nature? Thats my theory about the knees. They protect the base and trap debris?
It is all about creating taper. If I have a small tree with little taper, doing the split will increase the base size substantially and give me the taper I want.
 
It is all about creating taper. If I have a small tree with little taper, doing the split will increase the base size substantially and give me the taper I want.
My tree may be a good candidate for this opperation? Do you use a knife on either side of what I'll call toes? I'd imagine the spring is the best time for this?
 
My tree may be a good candidate for this opperation? Do you use a knife on either side of what I'll call toes? I'd imagine the spring is the best time for this?
Being so short, your tree is not a good candidate.
I usually use a knife and make the splits in between the major roots.
 
Being so short, your tree is not a good candidate.
I usually use a knife and make the splits in between the major roots.
I did manage to increase its taper and buttressing effect by using a mini rake. Now its back outside in the rain to see how I did. Next step will be to remove the surface roots I have exposed and to retreive the mesh on the bottom. Perhaps a new layer of moss?
 
Did upper 2/3rd notch then hard bend down on a few old low branches. Will report progress later.
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The paste is to seal cuts? Of course! I'm experiencing some compresive dificulties. I did once slice all along a branch before wiring down. Those wires I had to to secure guy wires under the buttress roots are now fused. I'm going to need pliers. Maybe I should leave them?
 
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I have shown multiple BCs with bottom splits. It is now my preferred method to create trunk flares on juvenile BCs or BCs grown on dry land. Below is pictures of a BC base split after just one year. The splits are almost completely healed. They also have a flute like appearance.
View attachment 572251View attachment 572252View attachment 572253View attachment 572254View attachment 572255View attachment 572256
I really like how it accentuates the fluting. Turned out great!
 
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