Species Study - Taxodium distichum

I'm interested in this technique. How are the trees doing a few months on? Any spring back of the bend? I really like the graceful bend that this technique has achieved.
The bend sprung back a bit when first released but that gentle bend stays.
 
Now that the bending is done, I am thinking about removing the tape after 10 days to allow the buds to push out for the tree to recover.
One thing of note: I used paracord and a constrictor knot to keep the tree from splitting down way too far. That works very well. The constrictor knot holds tight, stopping the split right where the knot is.

I got some practice for creating bunjin out of this exercise. I have no doubt that the tree would survive if it is an established tree. As it is a tree just collected, things may be dicey for a while.
10 days have passed. The tree is pushing buds. I am wondering if I should remove the tape in small sections or keep it on to force the fuse on the trunk after the split. Since bunjin should have a bare trunk anyway, I am leaning toward leaving it on if there are enough buds at the tip to get some root growth down below.
 
I think it is time to add a post on BC wiring. We have had multiple threads on this subject but there are lots of information out there. Some of them are good, others are from people with less experience on BC than we think.

This thread has good discussions on BC wiring. Many experienced BNutters gave us good info there.

Mirai: "The only time you can wire a bald cypress, without damaging the species, is when the buds swell in the spring season. The young branches are the easiest to wire and shape as older ones may become brittle and easily break."

For me I found the Mirai statement not necessarily true. Following is my experience:
  1. I can work older branches in the summer but not at one go. If I bend a branch by hand and rock back and for 15 minutes every day for 3-4 days the older branches become much easier to wire. The only time where I see a bald cypress branch become brittle and easily break is when the branch is extremely old, weak, and is in the process of being shed by the tree. I have applied this rocking method to branches and even trunk up to 1.5" in diameter. Bigger than that I don't know because I am not strong enough to bend branches that big by hand. The only reason why I haven't wired big branches much is because I actually want to chop the branches to create taper on them. Chopping the low branches take more care because BCs like to grow the branches up top much more. I have to be careful and prune some of the top branches so the low branches get sunlight.
  2. Unless I am doing extreme bending, I feel comfortable enough to wire BC in the fall all the way to early spring before bud break. I don't like wiring near bud break time so much because I am not very experienced at wiring. I know my limitation. I don't want to damage the bud.
  3. If you are in the warm areas where you have two growing seasons for BC. Wiring can be done in early summer. By the time Fall comes around, the summer wiring can be removed. BC should hold shape by then. Earlier this summer I wired a bunch of BCs. Fall is coming around and I can see that the bends now hold. In fast growing BCs some of the wiring already show a bit of bite in. I will remove those wire after the leaves have shed.
 
Now that the bending is done, I am thinking about removing the tape after 10 days to allow the buds to push out for the tree to recover.
One thing of note: I used paracord and a constrictor knot to keep the tree from splitting down way too far. That works very well. The constrictor knot holds tight, stopping the split right where the knot is.

I got some practice for creating bunjin out of this exercise. I have no doubt that the tree would survive if it is an established tree. As it is a tree just collected, things may be dicey for a while.
2 weeks later, the tree didn’t drop any leaves. Buds are forming on every branch and on the trunks wherever the bark is exposed. Time will tell but its chance of survival is increasing.
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IMG_8448.jpeg
 
I saw all this fun you’ve been having… carving, splitting and twisting. I couldn't let you have all the fun all by yourself. I got out my tiny BC and carefully hollowed out the middle and folded it in on itself in hopes that both sides will fuse back together and not die out on me. This one has been growing very strong this year so I’m hopeful. What do you think uncle C? Think it will do fuse back?
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I saw all this fun you’ve been having… carving, splitting and twisting. I couldn't let you have all the fun all by yourself. I got out my tiny BC and carefully hollowed out the middle and folded it in on itself in hopes that both sides will fuse back together and not die out on me. This one has been growing very strong this year so I’m hopeful. What do you think uncle C? Think it will do fuse back?
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Your tree has better taper after this operation.
I am hoping mine would fuse back too 😊
We will both find out next spring.
 
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VERY cool technique, and I appreciate the research being done here. By the time my BC is ready to be worked, perhaps we'll have some results!
 
2 weeks later, the tree didn’t drop any leaves. Buds are forming on every branch and on the trunks wherever the bark is exposed. Time will tell but its chance of survival is increasing.
View attachment 508190
View attachment 508191
In case you wonder about what I used to wrap the tree, I used strips of cloth from an old Chino pants then electrical vinyl tape sticky side out for the trunk. On the small part up top it was all electrical tape sticky side out.
 
I saw all this fun you’ve been having… carving, splitting and twisting. I couldn't let you have all the fun all by yourself. I got out my tiny BC and carefully hollowed out the middle and folded it in on itself in hopes that both sides will fuse back together and not die out on me. This one has been growing very strong this year so I’m hopeful. What do you think uncle C? Think it will do fuse back?
View attachment 508223View attachment 508224View attachment 508225View attachment 508226View attachment 508227View attachment 508228
Your tree is an example why I now clean off all side branches on a chop and leave just one to grow. Any more than one and I get reverse taper.
 
I am letting mine run for now. I noticed the 3rd root that was barely noticeable when I first got it started to grow and would like to let it get even bigger, chop it later when I am happy with the base.
This is my 1st year of having a BC.
The question is how to overwinter it? Looks like you, @Cajunrider and @19Mateo83, are in milder climes than I am. I think we have colder winter zones BC owners here too.
Right now it's in a pan of water which is on sunny and hot days is gone in 24 hrs.
Do we keep submerging it in winter or putting it on the ground, mulching and making sure it gets adequate watering?
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I am letting mine run for now. I noticed the 3rd root that was barely noticeable when I first got it started to grow and would like to let it get even bigger, chop it later when I am happy with the base.
This is my 1st year of having a BC.
The question is how to overwinter it? Looks like you, @Cajunrider and @19Mateo83, are in milder climes than I am. I think we have colder winter zones BC owners here too.
Right now it's in a pan of water which is on sunny and hot days is gone in 24 hrs.
Do we keep submerging it in winter or putting it on the ground, mulching and making sure it gets adequate watering?
View attachment 508260
For me, I will take the BCs out of water put them on the ground and mulch them in for the winter in PA.
 
Fall care for BCs.
I am not sure what others do in the fall but here is what I do.
1. Switching from slow-release fertilizer to liquid fish fertilizer and stop fertilizing when the leaves start to turn.
2. Move BCs out of water and heel them in mulch 1 month before freezing temperatures.
 
I am letting mine run for now. I noticed the 3rd root that was barely noticeable when I first got it started to grow and would like to let it get even bigger, chop it later when I am happy with the base.
This is my 1st year of having a BC.
The question is how to overwinter it? Looks like you, @Cajunrider and @19Mateo83, are in milder climes than I am. I think we have colder winter zones BC owners here too.
Right now it's in a pan of water which is on sunny and hot days is gone in 24 hrs.
Do we keep submerging it in winter or putting it on the ground, mulching and making sure it gets adequate watering?
View attachment 508260
Just letting you know you have a future reverse taper right at your chop if you let this tree grows freely. Unless you are going to chop it down lower, you may want to address this particularly if you plan to do a graceful flat top where the chop is usually high. Pruning the top branches enables the lower branches to grow and improve your taper ever so slightly.
 
Just letting you know you have a future reverse taper right at your chop if you let this tree grows freely. Unless you are going to chop it down lower, you may want to address this particularly if you plan to do a graceful flat top where the chop is usually high. Pruning the top branches enables the lower branches to grow and improve your taper ever so slightly.
Thank you.
Is it too late for this year? I figure it is going to drop leaves and stop growing for the year soon.
 
Thank you.
Is it too late for this year? I figure it is going to drop leaves and stop growing for the year soon.
Leave the tree alone now. Prune off the extra branches before bud break next year. After bud break and the tree is growing vigorously, rub off the new buds near the chop to prevent the tree from replacing those branches.
 
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