Species Study - Taxodium distichum

I ran across this gem of knowledge from @BillsBayou that is worth repeating.

“ When I dig fat BCs with branches, I always remove all the branches. The times when I ignore my own advice, I end up with a weak tree. It dedicates nearly all of its energy into the few branches it has. Very few new branches pop out. I don't get branches with wild activity, I get branches with the same little bit of activity these branches were going to get if I hadn't dug the tree at all. Reduced leaf production means reduced food generated and dying roots and dying cambium.”

I have observed the same thing with my trees. Plus the branches I elected to keep seldom wind up in the bonsai design.
 
Here is an example of a BC that I kept some branches at the time of collection. They became hindrance in the design of the bonsai.
Before styling
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After styling for a flat top. Now I have to hope for a fortuitous bud to be the interior apex.

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Decision tree for dealing with brown BC leaves during growing season.
1. Not enough water/too much sun? Move to part shade and water it a lot more.
2. If you don’t think it’s #1 then check for sign of mites and treat accordingly.
3. If not #1 or #2, check your soil pH. Tolerable range is 5-8.5. Good is 5.5-7.5. To raise the pH (make more alkaline) you can add pelletized limestone to the soil. To lower the pH (make more acid) you can apply Soil Sulfur, Aluminum Sulfate, or Chelated Iron. Adding organic compost to the soil or using compost as mulch can also help to increase acidity and maintain acid soil conditions.
 
Cajunrider said:
Here is an example of a BC that I kept some branches at the time of collection. They became hindrance in the design of the bonsai.
Before styling
View attachment 503625
View attachment 503626

After styling for a flat top. Now I have to hope for a fortuitous bud to be the interior apex.

View attachment 503627
View attachment 503628
Click to expand...
In my opinion, I don't see those branches as a hinderance. I don't think that a collected tree should be worked the same year it is collected, BCs are a different beast altogether, but still. I rather allow the tree to grow as it pleases and recuperate as much energy, and build as much roots as possible that first year, come next season its game on. The push will be stronger and the tree will recuperate from the work much faster. Especially since I don't have a greenhouse or a place where I can protect a tree that big over a weird snow/ice storm as we had the last 3 years.

The one you sold me is full of shoots, everywhere! It is going to get worked on in spring, after the tree drops whatever shoots it wants to over the winter, as some of my other BC's have done.
 
Maiden69 said:
In my opinion, I don't see those branches as a hinderance. I don't think that a collected tree should be worked the same year it is collected, BCs are a different beast altogether, but still. I rather allow the tree to grow as it pleases and recuperate as much energy, and build as much roots as possible that first year, come next season its game on. The push will be stronger and the tree will recuperate from the work much faster. Especially since I don't have a greenhouse or a place where I can protect a tree that big over a weird snow/ice storm as we had the last 3 years.

The one you sold me is full of shoots, everywhere! It is going to get worked on in spring, after the tree drops whatever shoots it wants to over the winter, as some of my other BC's have done.
Click to expand...
I trust you know best for your trees where you are. I admittedly work on a compressed schedule. I am pushing my BCs a bit harder for a variety of reasons. 😊
 
So after the replanting of 500 BC seedlings back into the land, I have a few dozen 18-24” tall seedlings left. Current plan is to select a dozen and wired them to interesting shapes to create shohin BCs. This should prove interesting.
 
Cajunrider said:
So after the replanting of 500 BC seedlings back into the land, I have a few dozen 18-24” tall seedlings left. Current plan is to select a dozen and wired them to interesting shapes to create shohin BCs. This should prove interesting.
Click to expand...
I am doing the same. I tried wiring at start of summer and most died from extreme heat, but I have a good number that I will bend in fall/spring
 
Collected a 2” trunk 6 ft BC yesterday. I was thinking about chopping it super short for shohin but thought the trunk has some promise. I split the trunk, wrapped it, and made a bunjin. The tree has a low chance of survival because it was under extreme heat stress and now subjected to this severe root prune and bending.
IMG_8332.jpeg
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Cajunrider said:
Collected a 2” trunk 6 ft BC yesterday. I was thinking about chopping it super short for shohin but thought the trunk has some promise. I split the trunk, wrapped it, and made a bunjin. The tree has a low chance of survival because it was under extreme heat stress and now subjected to this severe root prune and bending.
View attachment 505507
View attachment 505508
View attachment 505509
View attachment 505510
Click to expand...
Now that the bending is done, I am thinking about removing the tape after 10 days to allow the buds to push out for the tree to recover.
One thing of note: I used paracord and a constrictor knot to keep the tree from splitting down way too far. That works very well. The constrictor knot holds tight, stopping the split right where the knot is.

I got some practice for creating bunjin out of this exercise. I have no doubt that the tree would survive if it is an established tree. As it is a tree just collected, things may be dicey for a while.
 
In regard to branch development, as most of my BCs are only in their 1st or 2nd year of development, I am leaving the branches down below long. Even though I wire them to please me, I have no plan of keeping them that long. As soon as the branch get close to the final size I like, I will cut them short and start the ramification. For those of us who have developed BCs, what is the best way to do it?
 
Cajunrider said:
In regard to branch development, as most of my BCs are only in their 1st or 2nd year of development, I am leaving the branches down below long. Even though I wire them to please me, I have no plan of keeping them that long. As soon as the branch get close to the final size I like, I will cut them short and start the ramification. For those of us who have developed BCs, what is the best way to do it?
Click to expand...
That is how I handle it, CJR.
 
Anyone know if BC require a winter dormancy? Can't find a clear answer with Google. I was thinking of keeping some recently rooted cuttings from a cultivar under grow lights this winter.
 
andrewiles said:
Anyone know if BC require a winter dormancy? Can't find a clear answer with Google. I was thinking of keeping some recently rooted cuttings from a cultivar under grow lights this winter.
Click to expand...
I have seen BCs in places where there is hardly any winter. I have a Montezuma cypress, its very close cousin, that some years do not go dormant in zone 9a.
 
September has arrived. No more collection until next year. Trees collected in August are growing well. Styling work on the BC will continue to the end of this month. Beginning October there will be no more heavy carving until next spring. Carving pushes the trees into forming new buds. I think October is a bit late for that.
 
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