Small cold frame
- Thread starter cmeg1
- Start date
barrosinc
Masterpiece
Do yoo use something for fungus?
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
I always spray trees with fungicide just before putting away for storage.Never had an issue.
Orion_metalhead
Masterpiece
What fungicide do you use?
I am going to build a very similar box this summer for next winter. Will drop it 18" though, since i am putting it next to detached shed far in the yard. I am practically same region as you. Should work equally well for me.
I am going to build a very similar box this summer for next winter. Will drop it 18" though, since i am putting it next to detached shed far in the yard. I am practically same region as you. Should work equally well for me.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Seems to change every year......probably Bayer
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
My advice is to build one always bigger than you think you’ll need it I’ll come in handy..... should keep temps above 27° with dew on the bottoms of the pots probably .....that’s what mine always did when I had it in a colder section of yard.
Use a remote thermometer also and seal box with caulk that applies to wet surfaces.And thick foam on top and definately dirt bottom with gravel.
Orion_metalhead
Masterpiece
Do you use any particular r-value insulation? Was considering open bottom with r-7.5 on lid and 1/2 down the sides. Ill probably go 2x8 with 18" under ground.
Got it. Regular Bayer fungicide. Good to know.
Got it. Regular Bayer fungicide. Good to know.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
I imagine any of that foam insulation will work wonders just make sure the bottom is open dirt and gravel so earth warmth can radiate up into the box .
I put Oak leaves‘s over top of mine which insulated very well....... just don’t use hay or straw or anything because mice will attack.
Your insulation trick sounds superior really
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Checked the trees out today.
Well, it has been a solid 3 months without looking at the trees,so I thought I would open the lid today.Everything was fine as far as root moisture was concerned.I drenched them anyway.3 months and did not have to water.
There was mold this year on the twigs.Probably from the mild Winter and too much insulation from leaves.It is harmless though and I just sprayed with copper and they look fine now.
This is the first year I did not have a freeze in the box.Everything was good and cold though between 33-40 degrees all winter.
Next year I may forgo the leaves,as I like when they take lite freezes.Or I may keep them,we’ll see.
I am testing this method to overwinter pines.They look ok.I will see how they pop into growth.
Well, it has been a solid 3 months without looking at the trees,so I thought I would open the lid today.Everything was fine as far as root moisture was concerned.I drenched them anyway.3 months and did not have to water.
There was mold this year on the twigs.Probably from the mild Winter and too much insulation from leaves.It is harmless though and I just sprayed with copper and they look fine now.
This is the first year I did not have a freeze in the box.Everything was good and cold though between 33-40 degrees all winter.
Next year I may forgo the leaves,as I like when they take lite freezes.Or I may keep them,we’ll see.
I am testing this method to overwinter pines.They look ok.I will see how they pop into growth.
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cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
I am building a larger one this year and for zone 7,
All the insulation from leaves is unneccesary.
I believe bud burst is stronger in Spring when the box is allowed to freeze down to about 27 degrees or so like I used to have them.That way a thick layer of frost forms on interior lid and part way down the sides.Cold is good.
That way no mold whatsoever,and no need to water
All the insulation from leaves is unneccesary.
I believe bud burst is stronger in Spring when the box is allowed to freeze down to about 27 degrees or so like I used to have them.That way a thick layer of frost forms on interior lid and part way down the sides.Cold is good.
That way no mold whatsoever,and no need to water
Jrmcmich
Shohin
Sorry to bring up old thread but wonder if you still use this technique for over wintering? I am In zone 6 in Ohio amd last year had small cold frame which did ok but might look to improve this yearI am building a larger one this year and for zone 7,
All the insulation from leaves is unneccesary.
I believe bud burst is stronger in Spring when the box is allowed to freeze down to about 27 degrees or so like I used to have them.That way a thick layer of frost forms on interior lid and part way down the sides.Cold is good.
That way no mold whatsoever,and no need to water
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Oh yea I use it!
The secret is open it up every day it is not below freezing for air….then simply close at night if expected to go below freezing……put in shade so if all freezes it will stay frozen and can leave shut then.
I stored over 400 siberian elms in there
Getting a larger operation I am moving to a proper hoop house with an oil radiater type heater in it.
Jrmcmich
Shohin
Yeah I dont Have great area on north side of house but do have trees in my south to help protect sun to some degree. Last year I used Made cold frame with lid I could Open amd close as needed but definitely like idea of digging deeper for more consistent temps
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Warning the sun on it can really bring out of temperature…..can still be done perhaps some white plastic over top……when frozen otherwise open the lid………maybe does not matter as much as I read because I found it best to ventilate all days when 33f or above.
