Should I trim these Crape suckers to redirect energy?

[SmallTreeGuy]

Hello everyone,

I have attached a photo of 2 Crape Myrtles I have collected a little less than a month ago. The other two not shown are in black bags in the shade and misted when needed to try and produce buds. They are being my problem children. Anyways, my two that are growing are shown and I would like to know if and when and if now how much pruning should I do to the suckers. I have a few shoots coming out of the trunks but not many. Most is coming out around the bottom.

Should I prune these back to redirect energy from the suckers to the other parts higher up the trunks? They are also blocking a lot of the trunks from getting sun now that they are getting taller. Just want to do this the right way and give them the best start possible. Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Keep the ones higher on the trunk above the base, cut back the remainder.

cheers
DSD sends

 

[pandacular]

are crape myrtles basally dominant? that's a lot of base growth!

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Many “bush” type trees are basally dominant if given a chance, including Azaleas, quince, crepe myrtles etc…

cheers
DSD sends

 

[SmallTreeGuy]

Thanks! I’ll cut them back then. Should I cut them all around half off or completely? I know that probably sounds like a dumb question lol

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

No worries, we are all learners .

Cut these all the way off, flush at the junction.

Best
DSD sends

 

[SmallTreeGuy]

No worries, we are all learners .

Cut these all the way off, flush at the junction.

Best
DSD sends

Thanks much!

 

[BrianBay9]

Sorry, I'd propose a contrary opinion. For newly collected trees I cut NOTHING off that's green for the first year. Your only goal in year one is to replace roots that you removed during collection.

 

[Gabler]

Sorry, I'd propose a contrary opinion. For newly collected trees I cut NOTHING off that's green for the first year. Your only goal in year one is to replace roots that you removed during collection.

I was about to say the same thing. Give it a little more time to heal before doing another surgery.

 

[Gabler]

Also, bury those roots deeper. I can see the chop sites where you cut the major roots. It might be too late at this point, but you want to encourage new root growth from the top of each chopped root. Newly-collected trees should be replanted about an inch deeper than they were when you collected them, to ensure no part of the root ball dries out. I worry about that here on the Delmarva Peninsula, where the summers are consistently 85°F with 85% humidity. I can only imagine how quickly the surface of the soil must dry out down in Texas.

 

[leatherback]

Also, bury those roots deeper.

You saying what I was about to!

 

[Cajunrider]

Sorry, I'd propose a contrary opinion. For newly collected trees I cut NOTHING off that's green for the first year. Your only goal in year one is to replace roots that you removed during collection.

I agree. For crepe myrtles there is another driving reason. Where I am, I see lots of crepe myrtles that have grown to have tremendous nebari. Those are the trees in parks where the root suckers were allowed to grow to good size before they get pruned back. The root suckers push the roots outward away from the tree, increasing the diameter of the nebari a great deal. The next time I see one of those trees, I will take some pictures.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

At this juncture I differ in opinion. It’s a Crepe Myrtle. If the goal is merely to keep a Crepe Myrtle alive, sure, keep that foliar mass. Doubt if the in ground foliage will do the tree any good.

So here’s a thought… to perhaps create a constructive discussion… and maybe just because I have spent six weeks this year in Oak Ridge TN, a nexus of Crepe Myrtles…

Thinking bonsai advice is not a one size fits all and that blanket reasoning may not always apply.

…and just maybe there another has information on Crepe Myrtle physiology to share. So here we go…!

Is it valid that a Crepe Myrtle has similar (not exactly the same) strong root - sapline attachments to specific branches, similar to azaleas and other bush like trees?

In this case keeping the extra branches only does those specific roots any good ….and once pruned back those roots will languish and die back unless the sapline also has a path to future branches higher up?

In that case the flow would be forced up, adding to the upper foliage ….and if not these roots are not of any use to the future nebari, nor the tree

OP has another three months to grow out and strengthen the branches above the the soil line and roots below. There seem to be plenty above ground level remaining.

Once the soil line is moved up all those proposed to be trimmed off (at the present ground level) will attain the status of suckers in ground and if left will become saplings on their own…making those famous clusters of ground saplings that Crepes so commonly have…and are a nuisance, of no use to a bonsai.design.… nor the tree.

Now I’m off to the Museum destined to take off wire all day. I’ll check in at lunch.

cheers
DSD sends

 

[Gabler]

At this juncture I differ in opinion. It’s a Crepe Myrtle. If the goal is merely to keep a Crepe Myrtle alive, sure, keep that foliar mass. Doubt if the in ground foliage will do the tree any good.

So here’s a thought… to perhaps create a constructive discussion… and maybe just because I have spent six weeks this year in Oak Ridge TN, a nexus of Crepe Myrtles…

Thinking bonsai advice is not a one size fits all and that blanket reasoning may not always apply.

…and just maybe there another has information on Crepe Myrtle physiology to share. So here we go…!

Is it valid that a Crepe Myrtle has similar (not exactly the same) strong root - sapline attachments to specific branches, similar to azaleas and other bush like trees?

In this case keeping the extra branches only does those specific roots any good ….and once pruned back those roots will languish and die back unless the sapline also has a path to future branches higher up?

In that case the flow would be forced up, adding to the upper foliage ….and if not these roots are not of any use to the future nebari, nor the tree

OP has another three months to grow out and strengthen the branches above the the soil line and roots below. There seem to be plenty above ground level remaining.

Once the soil line is moved up all those proposed to be trimmed off (at the present ground level) will attain the status of suckers in ground and if left will become saplings on their own…making those famous clusters of ground saplings that Crepes so commonly have…and are a nuisance, of no use to a bonsai.design.… nor the tree.

Now I’m off to the Museum destined to take off wire all day. I’ll check in at lunch.

cheers
DSD sends

Most of my experience collecting is American beech, which have to be babied for a couple of years after collection in order to reestablish roots. My attitude toward newly-collected material is something like "DON'T TOUCH IT!!!" It seems in the case of crape myrtle, that conservative attitude is counterproductive?

 

[SmallTreeGuy]

Hmmm…lots to unpack here. I haven’t cut them yet. First I’m going to bury the major roots I cut, since it seems that is something basic that I need to do that I messed up on.

Sooo, if I don’t cut the suckers and leave it for a year or so, will the roots that grow to sustain them, be of any use to the the design once I have enough top growth that I don’t need them anymore?

Would there not be any benefit to pruning them at least some so the plant isn’t shaded completely and it can redirect some nutrients further up the trunks. I have heard that with myrtles, if you leave suckers long enough and they start to lignify, they could take over and the main trunk may die.

When I was cutting the crape out of the ground, there was a main trunk in the middle of all the surrounding trunks (what I collected) that was super large but dead, giving me the impression that the trunks that were alive (the ones I collected) used to be the suckers around this large dead trunk. It seems the crape was left to grow and the suckers are actually what I collected, given the tree was freely allowed to grow without trimming the suckers, resulting in a dead main trunk.

The way I’m combatting the dryness is by monitoring them almost obsessively and using my moisture meter. (i love this cheap little thing)

At collection, I have also amended my soil mix with some diatomaceous earth (optisorb) to retain a little moisture because of the crazy dry heat here this summer.

The suckers are growing super vigorously but not much activity on the trunks so I think I’m going to try pruning them on half of one of the pieces to test the theory. (I don’t think it will hurt the trees, considering how fast they are growing now.) I just want to try and redirect a little more energy to bud creation and growth further up the tree.

We’ll see. But first I’m going to bury the main roots because that seems a little more pertinent!

Thanks everyone for the input. I’m still learning and I really do try and take in a lot by what y’all are saying. It really means a lot to me!

Cheers

 

[pandacular]

One idea from someone who knows nothing about this species... you have two, why not run an experiment? Personally, direct observation is the only way I can truly learn something.

 

[SmallTreeGuy]

One idea from someone who knows nothing about this species... you have two, why not run an experiment? Personally, direct observation is the only way I can truly learn something.

Yep! That’s what I did. I trimmed them from one and we’ll see how that works. And I’m definitely the same way! Experiencing failure after trying something is a sure way to retain knowledge. Lol

I think they’ll be fine though, health wise and hopefully I can get more buds to pop higher up.

 

[Cajunrider]

I agree. For crepe myrtles there is another driving reason. Where I am, I see lots of crepe myrtles that have grown to have tremendous nebari. Those are the trees in parks where the root suckers were allowed to grow to good size before they get pruned back. The root suckers push the roots outward away from the tree, increasing the diameter of the nebari a great deal. The next time I see one of those trees, I will take some pictures.

Here are the pictures. Look carefully and you will see the many scars on the outside of the nebari. Near the trunk, the bark shedding has smoothened the scars.

 

[Deep Sea Diver]

Amazing Crepe!

Definitely not saying it’s not a useful practice, just that the timing is off.

best
DSD sends

 

[Cajunrider]

Amazing Crepe!

Definitely not saying it’s not a useful practice, just that the timing is off.

best
DSD sends

You have s point in the timing.