Shohin BC development

Cajunrider

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I plan to develop a shohin BC. The top I am not very concerned about. BC grows fast and the top can be developed quickly. The question is the balance between a good size base and chop scar management. What do you suggest for trunk size at the base and 1st chop height? I am thinking 2.5" trunk and 2.5" chop. That leaves 5.5" for development of the top. Your thoughts?
 
So far the best BC shohin I have seen here is @Cadillactaste shohin. Very hard to maintain at shohin size as a flat top as they are very apically dominant and require constant work to maintain the proportions.

View attachment 495037
Let's use this tree for development plan.
If I start with a standard 2.5" trunk base like the one in picture below, I won't have that twisting base, it will be pretty much all around mild flutes and a good flare. Chopped at 2.5", I can develop the 1st direction change in the trunk in 6 months and chop for the second direction change. In between the two chop, I will develop my low branch. The branch will be massaged from young to be near horizontal.
First growing 4 months of the second year, I will finish the second chop development and do the third chop and more branch development. By about the 3rd year, I will have the trunk ready for apex and ramification development in the 4th year.
4th and 5th year focus will be on apex & branch ramification. The tree should then be in shohin size. From then on it the fight to keep it shohin will continue on for about 10 years then I will lose the fight and let the tree grow bigger.

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What style of tree are you going for? For something like a formal upright or informal upright, I think it will be tough to get nice and even transition of taper within those 8 inches unless you chop very very low I think. Maybe about an 0.75 to an inch above the base. If you go too high, it might look like a sharpened pencil.
 
Let's use this tree for development plan.
If I start with a standard 2.5" trunk base like the one in picture below, I won't have that twisting base, it will be pretty much all around mild flutes and a good flare. Chopped at 2.5", I can develop the 1st direction change in the trunk in 6 months and chop for the second direction change. In between the two chop, I will develop my low branch. The branch will be massaged from young to be near horizontal.
First growing 4 months of the second year, I will finish the second chop development and do the third chop and more branch development. By about the 3rd year, I will have the trunk ready for apex and ramification development in the 4th year.
4th and 5th year focus will be on apex & branch ramification. The tree should then be in shohin size. From then on it the fight to keep it shohin will continue on for about 10 years then I will lose the fight and let the tree grow bigger.

View attachment 495047
This is the material you are choosing? It is a telephone phone at the base. Going small...I just personally don't see it. Sumo...okay, but still... I would go out into the swamp...and find some weird base...to make the initial start interesting to build on. If I was to go your route. I would not choose this one shown.
 
From then on it the fight to keep it shohin will continue on for about 10 years then I will lose the fight and let the tree grow bigger.
Sounds about right for the synopsis for the Story of the Shohin Bald Cypress
 
This is the material you are choosing? It is a telephone phone at the base. Going small...I just personally don't see it. Sumo...okay, but still... I would go out into the swamp...and find some weird base...to make the initial start interesting to build on. If I was to go your route. I would not choose this one shown.
are you arguing BC with cujun rider?
 
This is the material you are choosing? It is a telephone phone at the base. Going small...I just personally don't see it. Sumo...okay, but still... I would go out into the swamp...and find some weird base...to make the initial start interesting to build on. If I was to go your route. I would not choose this one shown.
If I choose that tree, all that pole will be gone if I chop at 2.5” and carve the angle out. It is pretty much an entire top build. From the first inch of the trunk. All I use would the the base.

@Cadillactaste I’ve been looking but it is not easy to find a small gnarly one. That is why I am toying with the idea of a complete top build.
 
If I choose that tree, all that pole will be gone if I chop at 2.5” and carve the angle out.
Not to be rude...but how are your carving skills? I want you to WOW people. You gotta wow them for me. Okay 😉... you want yours to stand alone...not to be compared to mine. I want that for you.
 
Not to be rude...but how are your carving skills? I want you to WOW people. You gotta wow them for me. Okay 😉... you want yours to stand alone...not to be compared to mine. I want that for you.
I have always carved my own path in life, pun intended. I admire yours but won’t try to imitate.

I figure if I don’t over carve at first go, things can get better as I improve along with the tree.
 
If you cut at 2.5 and then angle the cut, it should be fairly close to the base and you would have movement almost from the base?

P.S. Cadillactaste's tree is awesome. Not sure how you keep the BC that small, but kudos.
 
If you cut at 2.5 and then angle the cut, it should be fairly close to the base and you would have movement almost from the base?

P.S. Cadillactaste's tree is awesome. Not sure how you keep the BC that small, but kudos.
That is the intent. A solid all around base and the immediate movement from the get go.
 
If you cut at 2.5 and then angle the cut, it should be fairly close to the base and you would have movement almost from the base?

P.S. Cadillactaste's tree is awesome. Not sure how you keep the BC that small, but kudos.
Well thank ya kindly...yeah...it's a lot of upkeep. You can't forget about them. This is a watch closely sort of tree. My eye is on it at all times to keep it in check.

Anyone with smaller bonsai...is one thing. Add this particular species into the equation. It's work...you have to be prepared for the challenge that's for certain.
 
If I choose that tree, all that pole will be gone if I chop at 2.5” and carve the angle out. It is pretty much an entire top build. From the first inch of the trunk. All I use would the the base.

@Cadillactaste I’ve been looking but it is not easy to find a small gnarly one. That is why I am toying with the idea of a complete top build.
Even if it's got some gnarly roots... something...that is clearly not man-made would be worth the hunt. Even if you need to chop and carve. I think natural character always adds to a piece and tells a better story. When you've got a small tree. Things seem...magnified in one's focus.
 
Even if it's got some gnarly roots... something...that is clearly not man-made would be worth the hunt. Even if you need to chop and carve. I think natural character always adds to a piece and tells a better story. When you've got a small tree. Things seem...magnified in one's focus.
I am always on the look out for great ones. This one is a practice tree. I can afford to play with one :)
 
I've got about 40 BC seedlings I'm growing out, with the goal on making some smaller trees. Maybe not Shohin small but close. I really see that as the only way to get interesting movement in them, start small, wire/twist trunk, chop, and repeat.
 
I've got about 40 BC seedlings I'm growing out, with the goal on making some smaller trees. Maybe not Shohin small but close. I really see that as the only way to get interesting movement in them, start small, wire/twist trunk, chop, and repeat.
I found this beneath the soil of a lowes one. I’m hoping it can turn into a feature in the future. I chopped it about where the branches start coming out and planted it on an angle.


IMG_7505.jpeg
 
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