Shishigashira

[AndyJ]

Well my Shishigashira is off to a great start this spring and I think each branch has already produced more growth this spring than it did all of last year - I'm guessing the repot into the much larger container is helping, couple with a much better substrate. I am hoping for some buds to appear at the bases of the branches I removed last year - nothing there yet but fingers crossed.

I've got a hole in the trunk that shows no sign of callousing over at the moment so I've bought some wood filler that I thought I'd use to fill it. Once this is hard I'll work the trunk surface to try and get it callousing. Is it ok for me to do this now? Are there ideal times when this type of work should be done?

Thanks all.

Andy

 

[Davidlpf]

I've got a hole in the trunk that shows no sign of callousing over at the moment so I've bought some wood filler that I thought I'd use to fill it. Once this is hard I'll work the trunk surface to try and get it callousing. Is it ok for me to do this now? Are there ideal times when this type of work should be done?

Thanks all.

Andy

I worked mine in frebruary, before it open the buds. You can see the evolution of the wound here click,click (I know, I know, I've got a seious photo obsesion ) If I were you, I'll wait until the end of winter for this kind of works.

Cheers

 

[River's Edge]

I worked mine in frebruary, before it open the buds. You can see the evolution of the wound here click,click (I know, I know, I've got a seious photo obsesion ) If I were you, I'll wait until the end of winter for this kind of works.

Cheers

I also prefer to do this type of work when the tree is dormant. I have never tried it during the active growing season. It usually involves cleanup, carving and sealing. I find those things easier without sap involvement. Less likely to damage active new growth.

 

[AndyJ]

Hi folks,

Well I think Bill's advice to pot this into a deeper pot is working. I've got a lot of top growth this year and some really good shoot extension:








My objective was to plant the tree deeper in order to get the tree vigorous and hope to get some back budding. Well there is no sign of any backbudding yet. I wonder, should I be cutting this new growth back now, back to the tree silhouette? Will this force the tree to grow out again and, hopefully, backbud?

Thanks all,

Andy

 

[Davidlpf]

<frozen mode on>Let it grow, let it groooooow....</frozen mode off>

 

[AndyJ]

Hi folks.

Update on my shishigashira. Unfortunately, I didn’t get any backbudding last year but I did get some fairly vigorous growth from a few shoots which I managed to train in a downwards direction. The shoots extended a good 8“- 9” and I have managed to bring them down quite low so am quite pleased. I think I’ve got enough growth in them and would like to thread graft them into the non trunk but have a couple of questions.

1. Can I thread graft using last years shoots? Will a thread graft fuse if it’s on last year’s wood?
2. Should I pinch the shoot as soon as I can to get it to bifurcate and then use these new shoots as my thread grafts?
3. I have identified a few graft locations but one of these is where an old branch used to be; I guess a previous owner removed it for some reason. I’d like to put one of my branches there - can I still do this? Do I drill out the old “knot“ of remaining branch so it’s clean and just run my thread branch through? What part of the thread’s cambium needs to line up with the cambium of the hole in the tree? Does it have to touch all round? Or does It just need to touch one part of the hole?
4. Should I strip all leaves on the shoot behind the graft?

Thanks all.

Andy

 

[Davidlpf]

Hi folks.

Update on my shishigashira. Unfortunately, I didn’t get any backbudding last year but I did get some fairly vigorous growth from a few shoots which I managed to train in a downwards direction. The shoots extended a good 8“- 9” and I have managed to bring them down quite low so am quite pleased. I think I’ve got enough growth in them and would like to thread graft them into the non trunk but have a couple of questions.

Be aware that the shoots are too brittle, and break easily without previous advice

Can I thread graft using last years shoots? Will a thread graft fuse if it’s on last year’s wood

Yes, you can, if they don't be break in the proccess.

Should I pinch the shoot as soon as I can to get it to bifurcate and then use these new shoots as my thread grafts?

I'd let the shoot grow until it will be fused, then you cut back and gain the bifurcation

I have identified a few graft locations but one of these is where an old branch used to be; I guess a previous owner removed it for some reason. I’d like to put one of my branches there - can I still do this? Do I drill out the old “knot“ of remaining branch so it’s clean and just run my thread branch through? What part of the thread’s cambium needs to line up with the cambium of the hole in the tree? Does it have to touch all round? Or does It just need to touch one part of the hole?

For a good fusion, there must be live tissues in the join point. Clean all the dead wood until see the fresh cambium.

Should I strip all leaves on the shoot behind the graft?

Is really convenient, in order to all the sap flow go after the join point strip all leaves BEFORE the graft.



BTW: could you please put any new photo?



And maybe will be faster cut all the old branches, let only the trunk line, and if the tree is healthy, it will back bud over all the trunk.



Greetings

 

[Davidlpf]

@AndyJ
Before pruning


After


Back budding


It worked for me!

Cheers

 

[AndyJ]

Yay! Great result David! Are those shoots on the top trunk? Anything showing lower down? That fills me with confidence that mine will do the same. Thanks for remembering me and for posting an update on your tree!

I’ll post a new picture of mine tomorrow.