Scots pine yellow needles

It kinda looks fungal to me but hard to tell with out a close up of the needles. We had a very humid year last year so there could be alot of fungal issues this year.
Many fungi infect needles one year but you dont see the effects of the infection until the next year.
You said you applied copper fungicide every 3 weeks.

When did you start appling it and when did you stop?

If its not fungal then its got to be a root/watering issue.

I also have scots pines and use a 1:1:1 akadama, pumice and lava and I dont see this on my trees. Mine get watered every day during the hottest months (Mid June-Mid September) then every other day in May-June; Sept-Nov/Dec. I will shut off the water system if we are slated to get 0.5 inches of rain or more. I have never seen an overwatering issue with that mix and that watering regimen. I dont use pond baskets but I do use a plastic basic lined with embroidery screen from a craft store that is the same sort of depth and I dont see that staying that wet.
i started copper in April and continued through with last application at end of Sept.
 
Tree is not getting enough water, not only are the needles brown they are desiccated. How often do you water.
It depends on the weather but during spring usually every 2-3 days and then during the summer daily. I've been trying the chopstick again and to be honest it stays wet a long time. I originally posted on Friday and then at advice of those saying might be too wet, went back to my ole chopsticks. It stayed wet until today upon which the new buds started drooping. When I pulled the chopstick it was finally dry and watered today and perked up again.
 
Oo[s you must have answered whil I was posting.
 
Bonide copper fungicide treatment spray.

It is good practice to alternate between copper and another fungicide like Daconil.
Neither of them covers all types of fungi so many of us alternate between them every couple of weeks.
So apply copper then 2 weeks later apply daconil, 2 weeks later apply copper, etc
 
So apply copper then 2 weeks later apply daconil, 2 weeks later apply copper, etc

Wouldn't this cause havoc amongst life in the garden?

I am a bit concerned about doing this. For the first time in 9 years do I have some traces of fungus in my plants, which I just pick out and toss. To spray every two weeks with fungicides.. What does that doe to the rest of the garden (And symbiotic fungi the pots). Anybody know?
 
Wouldn't this cause havoc amongst life in the garden?

I am a bit concerned about doing this. For the first time in 9 years do I have some traces of fungus in my plants, which I just pick out and toss. To spray every two weeks with fungicides.. What does that doe to the rest of the garden (And symbiotic fungi the pots). Anybody know?
It kills them. A couple species might survive in a crippled state. Pathogens are highly adaptable and are more common than commensal/symbiotic fungi in highly treated areas.
Pathogenic fungi are succesful all over the world because they have a very adaptable genetic code; they can mutate faster than we can produce new fungicides.
Some plants might start behaving differently too, if the concentration of fungicides reaches a critical level. Once that happens, it can take a couple years before they're restored.

I can advise you to use some kind of spray cabinet, a cheap plastic (curver?) Box can help you prevent the spray from dropping all over your garden, and treatment will be more effective. Cling wrap around the pot should protect the soil in the pot.
 
Wouldn't this cause havoc amongst life in the garden?

I am a bit concerned about doing this. For the first time in 9 years do I have some traces of fungus in my plants, which I just pick out and toss. To spray every two weeks with fungicides.. What does that doe to the rest of the garden (And symbiotic fungi the pots). Anybody know?

If you've gone 9 years with no issues, you're very lucky. Fungus is a big problem here with my humid summers.
If we have a particularly rainy summer, forget it, fungus all over the place. We had a very rainy/humid summer last year or the year before and I didnt spray enough because it was raining so much. Most of the trees in my area had some kind of fungus or another, pines, deciduous, didnt matter.

I have one pine this year with almost every needle has signs of fungus.
It is going to be very weak and might not even survive at all if the new growth this year cant support it.
I either use the fungicides or I give up doing bonsai period.
Its your yard and trees so its your choice ultimately to do and treat your trees how you see fit.
 
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It is good practice to alternate between copper and another fungicide like Daconil.
Neither of them covers all types of fungi so many of us alternate between them every couple of weeks.
So apply copper then 2 weeks later apply daconil, 2 weeks later apply copper, etc
I have had similar issues to you with our extremely humid weather in late spring and summer. What dilution rate do you use for your Daconil? Do you use the pre-formulated spray or the concentrate and mix on your own.
 
It depends on the weather but during spring usually every 2-3 days and then during the summer daily. I've been trying the chopstick again and to be honest it stays wet a long time. I originally posted on Friday and then at advice of those saying might be too wet, went back to my ole chopsticks. It stayed wet until today upon which the new buds started drooping. When I pulled the chopstick it was finally dry and watered today and perked up again.
If the roots have shut down it is going to stay wet. The funny (peculiar) thing about water issues is that no matter how it plays out, in the end the results are the same as the tree dying due to lack of water. I think you would be best in leaving it alone. Personally I think the tree is too far gone to be brought back through anything you can do.
 
I have had similar issues to you with our extremely humid weather in late spring and summer. What dilution rate do you use for your Daconil? Do you use the pre-formulated spray or the concentrate and mix on your own.

I use both. If its the premixed, I use it directly from the bottle with no dilutions. If its the concentrated you mix with water, I follow the instructions on the label.
 
When I pulled the chopstick it was finally dry and watered today and perked up again.

I don't know how "perking up" is visible. But it is sure underwatered if this is true, and not just, it looking better wet.

Screw the chopsticks!
It is very true it may be you brand.

Not only brand, but a change in density along the stick, oil contamination, even just hand oil, can change your..."reading?".
Super duper unreliable.

If it's loose and wicking water from the top, it will look wet when the core is dry.

If it has uneven densities, it can look dry when it's wet.

Just water daily and problem solved!

Sorce
 
My Scots got happy in a well ventilated Anderson Flat.
6.JPG

After it became jubilant, I potted it into a plastic "bonsai shape" container and it stayed happy. The new "pot" also has a fully ventilated bottom. :)

Scots pine 5-20-20.JPG

Even growing more.
 
My Scots got happy in a well ventilated Anderson Flat.
View attachment 304192

After it became jubilant, I potted it into a plastic "bonsai shape" container and it stayed happy. The new "pot" also has a fully ventilated bottom. :)

View attachment 304193

Even growing more.
I am very glad to be wrong, I am glad the tree seems to be surviving.
 
I am very glad to be wrong, I am glad the tree seems to be surviving.
Don't recall your mention of plastic pot.
Maybe one of the 1,100 other posts I did while trying to get a handle on this shrub. ;)
 
i started copper in April and continued through with last application at end of Sept.

Did you apply the fungicide this year or not? I have the same problem and I am getting a copper based fugicide today. Will spray in the evening. Attached is the picture of my needles. I hope it is the fungus that is killing my needles too.

Did the fungicide make no difference?IMG_1521.jpg
 
When you go out this morning to look at your tree do not touch the needles but look closely; you may see some small really quick insects running up and down on those same needles. This is probably what is causing your problem. Hit the tree with some insecticidal soap at ten day intervals and this should clear it up if it is not a fungus. I don't know what the bugs are and I have little experience with fungus issues.
 
Did you apply the fungicide this year or not? I have the same problem and I am getting a copper based fugicide today. Will spray in the evening. Attached is the picture of my needles. I hope it is the fungus that is killing my needles too.

Did the fungicide make no difference?View attachment 308689
I have already applied copper and Daconil. My needles are not "mottled" in appearance as are yours. Mine are mainly yellowing from the tips toward the base and a uniform yellow. Yours to me does appear to be more fungal in nature. The little bugs Vance is referring to most likely either spider mites or clover mites. I have had good success with insecticidal soap as he mentioned but no little bugs on mine. Did paper test multiple time and very minor/nothing. I always get clover mites to some extent but nothing too major.
 
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