Removing Kirikuchi to re-cut a callus?

[Wood]

Quick question, anyone have tips on removing old and hardened Kirikuchi to re-cut a healing callus? I have several on this Korean hornbeam that are making good progress, but I wanted to restart the healing for this year. The best I've gotten is chipping away at it with an exacto knife, but I think I'm doing as much damage as the original wound

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

It seems to me that it's a solvent based hardening polymer. You can try some lamp oil or turpentine and put that on a piece of cotton, press it onto the stuff and it might(!) soften after a couple hours.
Both the oil and turpentine are not friendly to your plant though.
I think scraping or picking it is your best option.

 

[Empty Mountain]

Not sure if this would work okay but my idea would be to not remove it all and just recut around the callous (removing kirikuchi and some callous tissue) cleanly with a sharp knife/dental scraper and leaving the old kirikuchi in the centre of the wounds, then applying new kirikuchi on the newly exposed cuts.

But I'm not sure if there would be any problems with that method.

 

[bwaynef]

Also, taking from your experience, maybe its best to simply put kirikuchi around the periphery of the wound and cover it with something else. Doesn't do much to help you though.

 

[Wood]

...recut around the callous (removing kirikuchi and some callous tissue) cleanly with a sharp knife/dental scraper and leaving the old kirikuchi in the centre of the wounds, then applying new kirikuchi on the newly exposed cuts....

...maybe its best to simply put kirikuchi around the periphery of the wound and cover it with something else...

This is probably what I'm going to do, and probably how i'll cover new wounds going forward. I'm kinda surprised that the hardened kirikuchi has stuck to the formed callus instead of flaking off as the callus grew. I'm certainly going to use a paintbrush to apply it more thinly in the future

 

[Wires_Guy_wires]

Why reapply it if it causes so much trouble? Why not cut putty, candle wax, beeswax, vaseline, duct tape or something that's easier to remove?

 

[Mike Westervelt]

I'd just cut through it to expose the edge of the cambium and reapply.

 

[Wood]

Why reapply it if it causes so much trouble? Why not cut putty, candle wax, beeswax, vaseline, duct tape or something that's easier to remove?

I'm using kirikuchi because it helps speed up hornbeam healing with the extra hormones in it. I've got regular cut paste for other species that normally heal at faster rates