Potawatomi13
Imperial Masterpiece
Main point of opening up so sun comes to inside is encouraging inner branch/bud development. Is this a need for you
? If doing this may need to shorten branches for energy redistribution.
Main point of opening up so sun comes to inside is encouraging inner branch/bud development. Is this a need for you
? If doing this may need to shorten branches for energy redistribution.
Main point of opening up so sun comes to inside is encouraging inner branch/bud development. Is this a need for you
Hmm not really no, at least not yet.
Just all about growth and health for this Oak... don’t matter how it looks or branch development really.
The primary branches it already has are probably too high up to keep in future design any way.
So no need?
It followed most of my trees.. when temps got to rough (wind and rain), and consistent below -3, I put them in ingested shelter. A garage and a shed. It was left out in snow a bit. I’m not concerned for it. As far as I’m aware it’s a hardy tree to low temps such as -5 and -10.
But can’t go wrong with I heated shelter.
Only tree of mine which suffered was my olive. I believe it got some frost damage. I got bring it in when temps get to -1 and 2. It’s not happy with frost at all.
It didn’t do much just noticeable discolouration and probably slowed growing this year.
Thanks for reply.. Yes I bring my olive in to the kitchen window in Nov till April.. Re: Portuguese Oak... Seems to have quite a lot of organic in with pumice so hard for me to judge watering as I use all inorganic with a bit of bark for my trees, so never worry about overwatering... Did you have the same and what do you find it needs water wise?
Paolo
milehigh_7
Mister 500,000
Olives are fine at least -5c Oaks should be as well.
Oaks I would probably keep out all the whole time but olives I’d have thought the cold affected them much more. At least, mine was frost damaged last year.
Mine is in the mix it was purchased in which is larger organic, bark, some clay granules, I don’t know exactly what it is. Kaizen mix no. 3 (from kaizen website).
I dig under the soil an inch or so and judging by the darkness and the feel of moisture on my finger, tells me whether to water. Unfortunately it’s an experience thing. Who knows, maybe I’ve been judging wrong this whole time... can’t lie, it gives you the anxiety thinking about it but that’s just something we gotta get over
.If I had an average weather day, completely mild temps 12-14c, wind not much, some moisture in the air but all average, it’d last maybe 2 days, water on the 3rd.
Thanks... Yes that's the same mix as mine.. I've been using the same method for judging as you and so far so good...Oaks I would probably keep out all the whole time but olives I’d have thought the cold affected them much more. At least, mine was frost damaged last year.
Mine is in the mix it was purchased in which is larger organic, bark, some clay granules, I don’t know exactly what it is. Kaizen mix no. 3 (from kaizen website).
I dig under the soil an inch or so and judging by the darkness and the feel of moisture on my finger, tells me whether to water. Unfortunately it’s an experience thing. Who knows, maybe I’ve been judging wrong this whole time... can’t lie, it gives you the anxiety thinking about it but that’s just something we gotta get over
If I had an average weather day, completely mild temps 12-14c, wind not much, some moisture in the air but all average, it’d last maybe 2 days, water on the 3rd.
Will move to a less organic mix when I move it from training pot next spring if it looks ready...
Thanks again for info..
P
I’ll be repotting mins too. Bigger pot, inorganic. It needs a few years to grow and it’s current pot is way too small. Thing is it was only potted in it last year, don’t really need to be repotted.. so I’ll have to weigh that up.
peterbone
Mame
Slip pot it. If it were mine I'd be looking at growing that new trunk out for several years with no pruning and then cutting back to one of the lower branches. I may even think about putting it in the ground. I assume that they don't grow very quickly.
Gustavo Martins
Omono
I don’t know about this species but i’ve Got a Q. Ilex from seed. Last year (its first) it didn’t grew much but this year, so far, it has already had 3 flushes of growth. Not as fast as a maple or elm but still some measurable growth.
milehigh_7
Mister 500,000
With oaks, the roots grow then the top.
This is basically my plan. I was told originally (I think in this thread?) by Rockm that the trunk needs fattening and I agree. At the moment it’s a gnarly stump, great bark and deadwood but the leader is too thin. I need it larger so it’s a good number of years to do that.
Yes, putting ground may be best but I’d just prefer not to.. but, will see.
I’ll weigh up and post a forum on it in late winter
.Yes I’ll be slip potting..
What exactly does that mean?
You sound like you know Oaks, so I’m curious for more info.
Could you elaborate please?
milehigh_7
Mister 500,000
Let's say you plant an acorn. Over the next couple of years it is going to grow a massive taproot (if allowed) and overall grow as much rootmass as possible. Once that growth begins to be restricted, it will then start really pushing top growth. That's why you don't mess with Oak roots but about every 3 years or so. It's also why I VERY MUCH prefer to develop oaks in screen side pots/strainers and the like.
Oh very good info.. thank you.
Well, it’s been in this pot not long, but it’s kinda small. So I wonder what’s better in long run, repot and suffer a year or so of slow growth, for benefit of big pot.. or leave it, for short term good growth?
Perhaps if Kaizen felt it was ready for its pot then you should let it be and work on it little by little over the next few years... He seems to be pretty cautious about moving to Bonsai pots when you watch/read his stuff...
But go with your instinct.. it's your tree now?
But go with your instinct.. it's your tree now?
BobbyLane
Imperial Masterpiece
I saw this in the flesh and its not actually as spindly as it looks, i did advise Conar that wiring the branches on the leader to go upwards and out, would help the tree develop far quicker. i feel the overall shape was hastily put together and the tree has some good potential with the right process. maybe a bigger training pot would help it on as well. you wont be able to enjoy it really, if it goes in the ground, will just become a bush. i would say yes, if you had a lot of material to play about with. you'll learn more and have more fun, growing it on in a bigger pot. its still a new purchase for you.
You make a good point, thanks. Sorry I was unaware of your replies till now.
I did actually do that wiring btw, but I feel my wire wasn't strong enough.
I even did double wiring of my thickest, but unsure whether its made a large difference or has stayed in that position.
You make a good point. It would seem wasteful to put in ground, but I am just thinking of the thickness that the leader has to put on, can only imagine it taking a few years.
Perhaps bigger pot, again, as you suggested when you saw it.
Maybe next year, bigger pot, 2-3 years in that pot to stretch its legs, get some proper girth on.
Sound like a plan?
Similar threads
