Pruning deciduous now vs late winter

The tree that got me wondering is a Crape Myrtle I just got from a nursery, I need to cut back a few thicker trunks and cut the canopy down a lot.
It's in an unheated garage right now and could probably stay there if I decide to prune.

I have some other Japanese Maples I need to prune too, but sounds like I definitely missed the window for cutting those in the fall.
 
No-one's mentioned the fact that doing large chops in late winter or fall will result in a loss of energy from the tree since the parts you're cutting off are full of sap. Wouldn't chopping mid winter help retain more of the tree's energy, as long as you can protect the cut points?
 
@theta
Severe cold winter climates, like Mike Frary's are quite different than north Georgia. So the answer to the question depends on where you live, I actually live between Chicago and Milwaukee. My climate is nearly identical to @sorce .

I was going to quip that late winter early spring in Georgia can be today, second week of January. You guys have it way too easy. I have serious climate zone envy. But I don't know GA specifics. Stan Kengai and Dave4 both live in Georgia, know their climate and have a track record of turning out excellent trees, listen to their experience. Markyscott's Houston weather is more similar to Georgia than mine, but Houston really can be sub-tropical, with occasional frost free winters, followed by a winter with a hard freeze. Very different climate from Georgia or further north.

So best answer has the element of local climate, in addition to species, and what degree of protection you can supply after pruning.

I provide little or no protection for the bulk of my collection, zone 5b, I do nothing middle of winter. I usually don't prune after middle of August, but I may be re-evaluating that approach. Trees sheltered in frost free unheated well house - if I can reach them, I will pull out one or two and work on them middle of winter, then return them to the cold shelter before they have a chance to wake up. My well house remains frost free, so these trees are not stressed by serious cold.


*****important, as little as 12 hours at temperatures above 40 F, 4 C, can begin to wake trees up. When trees start to become active, cold tolerance decreases. In Michigan, wine grapes lost entire crop winter of 2012-2013 due to 5 days in January where temperatures exceeded 60 F, (+15 C) followed by an immediate crash down to 0 F, (-17 C). All flower buds were killed, many of the vinifera types vegetative buds had greater than 50% mortality. Yet in a normal winter where temps slowly got down to the frigid lows, and stayed cold without a thaw, the same vines had flower buds survive through - 10 F, even -15 F (--23 C to -26 C). So remember, letting a tree spend a day or two in the warmth of the home or workshop can significantly reduce its winter hardiness. Protect from deep freezes for the remainder of the winter, after more than a few hours in the warmth.
 
I'm a rebel, I just did my beech, 2 maples, pyrachantha, spruce(doesn't count lol) and a couple others. Though, Mine are kept protected and my weather is mild. I can get to single digits but nothing for very long. I also wired these guys as well. For me it's a time management issue. I have a lot of trees (around 60), work, family and a houshold to run. So with repotting, pruning, wiring and the like I get to it when I can. I don't get die back or the like.AGAIN I monitor my tree's closely and have a cold green house then my unheated garage is set up to house my trees and the temp is monitored in there.
 
live between Chicago and Milwaukee. My climate is nearly identical to @sorce

In all odd honesty....

I think that big wet thing near us, makes us very close....but in the right years and conditions...

Possibly as different as the regular difference between Mi and Ga!

That's why they ALL got it easier than us!

GLN!

Sorce
 
The tree that got me wondering is a Crape Myrtle I just got from a nursery, I need to cut back a few thicker trunks and cut the canopy down a lot. It's in an unheated garage right now and could probably stay there if I decide to prune.

No idea why you have it protected down there unless it not healthy. In GA and Al they get cut hardcore sometimes to the ground in very early Spring - here we chop them a LOT on March 1st no matter what the weather and they come back very good, every year, for years.

Grimmy
 
No idea why you have it protected down there unless it not healthy. In GA and Al they get cut hardcore sometimes to the ground in very early Spring - here we chop them a LOT on March 1st no matter what the weather and they come back very good, every year, for years.

Grimmy
I had it in the garage, just because we've been having temps down around 11. I dunno, that feels cold to me down here haha. But the weather here in GA is crazy. We had snow couple weeks ago, temps in the teens, then today it was 60. Next week back down to low of 20's. We tend to get these big unpredictable swings in temperature. I figured the garage would just kinda even out the extremes. I have it back out side, btw now that its in the 60s and getting some rain. I'm def going to chop it as soon as weather stays more consistent and we're out of the winter. I wouldn't call this time of year early spring just yet?

I dunno, with crape myrtles it probably wont matter, these things are like tanks.
 
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Well, could you please point me to a link that shows spring repotting is really a myth?
TIA !
It isnt. Some trees can be reported in summer but they are in the minority.
For most species it's better to repot in spring.
 
Aha! So I will try. I am a believer.
IF one of my trees die, you will hear from me!
o_O
;)
:rolleyes:

It's worth exploring on less worthy material..IMO...

How else to take the fear out of "emergency repots" or forced "out of season" collecting?

What is The practice for your first bitchin "out of season" collect?

What is "out of season"?

100 different answers!

Balance to Sane!

Sorce
 
I watched the Winter Prep free Mirai stream the other day.

Definitely changed my mind about fall pruning, and more...

Ryan was cautioning against pruning in fall before leaf drop because the trees resources are being stored for winter. When the colors start to turn, that job is pretty much done and it’s a good time to prune while the tree can still compartmentalize wounds a bit before winter. Dead of winter in areas where the trees get fully dormant is bad because nothing is moving to isolate damage and hard freezes can further damage exposed tissue. If you’re in a part of the country with mild winters, that issue is irrelevant and one can prune all winter. There’s another window in early spring before the sap starts to run. Nip the end of a twig and look for bleeding. If no little bubble of liquid appears your good to go. But protect from hard freezes if you prune then.

Scott
 
Ryan was cautioning against pruning in fall before leaf drop because the trees resources are being stored for winter. When the colors start to turn, that job is pretty much done and it’s a good time to prune while the tree can still compartmentalize wounds a bit before winter. Dead of winter in areas where the trees get fully dormant is bad because nothing is moving to isolate damage and hard freezes can further damage exposed tissue. If you’re in a part of the country with mild winters, that issue is irrelevant and one can prune all winter. There’s another window in early spring before the sap starts to run. Nip the end of a twig and look for bleeding. If no little bubble of liquid appears your good to go. But protect from hard freezes if you prune then.

Scott
Nothing to add other than I love your new profile photo! Can't go wrong with Shiner Bock.
 
I almost lunched a Shiner with my Onion rings at the BbQ joint the other day!

Thanks Scott...
I do have to pinpoint my health hazards..
Especially with stuff in, "can't screw up" mode!

Sorce
 
With Deciduous:

If you trunk chop in spring just prior to bud push, when you start to see buds swell this is when your result will be a massive push, but you will get less chop site healing.

If you chop after the 1st spring growth hardens and you start to see the second push, the tree has regained its strength, you will get less of a push, but there is more available energy to heal right away.

The bigger the cut, the better it can heal at this stage. That's my understanding.
 
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