thumblessprimate1
Masterpiece
My opinion is that it's too early to decide on a front, and I think BVF's questions are very helpful.
Pre Bonsai - Trident Maple - Front selection
- Thread starter Shan Anand
- Start date
Shan Anand
Sapling
Thanks everyone.. I am definitely not trying for that masterpiece with this stock. I know that the winter silhouette will not be great with the current structure! I am planning on putting this in larger pot with Bonsai soil this spring and build some ramification to begin with.. At least my short term plan is to have some sort of a tree structure when all the leaves come out..
JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
Where are you located Shan? You should put your location in your profile, so it shows up under your name, and we can give you better advice. If you decide to do the chop and grow route, you may want to put it in the ground to grow as that will speed it up considerably. But without knowing your climate, I couldn't say if this is a good idea or not.
Shan Anand
Sapling
Atlanta, Judy. Zone 7B.. Just updated my profile..
JudyB
Queen of the Nuts
Great, Thanks! That means you can indeed ground grow this tree if you want to.
Shan Anand
Sapling
Thanks, Judy..
Giga
Masterpiece
I would
-chop it right where that large straight section starts about halfway up
-work the roots and get rid of the hook root that looks from a nursery pot root bound issue
-plant in the ground on a tile or something
-grow a new leader each season, cutting it back each year to get some good taper
-after two years dig it up and work the roots again planting again on a tile or the like
-if your happy with the height/taper work on primary branches-if not repeat leader/chopping back
-4/5 years later plant it in a training pot or a larger bonsai pot and re-post your tree, or better yet post each step on this thread and keep it going.
-at this point you'll work the finer branch structure and maybe roots grafts if it needs it.
research each step or ask how to do each. I'm not sure your skill level so I may be preaching to the quire. This is what I would do and I'm no master so if anyone want to add please go ahead.
-chop it right where that large straight section starts about halfway up
-work the roots and get rid of the hook root that looks from a nursery pot root bound issue
-plant in the ground on a tile or something
-grow a new leader each season, cutting it back each year to get some good taper
-after two years dig it up and work the roots again planting again on a tile or the like
-if your happy with the height/taper work on primary branches-if not repeat leader/chopping back
-4/5 years later plant it in a training pot or a larger bonsai pot and re-post your tree, or better yet post each step on this thread and keep it going.
-at this point you'll work the finer branch structure and maybe roots grafts if it needs it.
research each step or ask how to do each. I'm not sure your skill level so I may be preaching to the quire. This is what I would do and I'm no master so if anyone want to add please go ahead.
Brian Van Fleet
Pretty Fly for a Bonsai Guy
Let's give @fredman a shot at it first. He seems to be rather taken with it.
fredman
Masterpiece
Easy BVF. Layer low and the following year chop it shorter. Put it on a tile in the ground to give that beautiful trunk a sexy spread. From there on build a killer of a tree....that's the potential I see in that tree.
Going to take time, but that's what its all about right?
Going to take time, but that's what its all about right?
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
He said, "beautiful trunk"
Vin
Imperial Masterpiece
He also said "sexy spread", neither of which am I able to see.
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
Vin
Imperial Masterpiece
You're too kind..
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
I am curious how he will deal with this....
Vin
Imperial Masterpiece
Smoke
Ignore-Amus
I accidently kicked my dog when I opened this post!
Shan Anand
Sapling
Alright, it is going back to the ground then after the chop off in spring..
Vin
Imperial Masterpiece
It really is the best option. Take no notice of the diversionary posts. We're just having a little fun. Seriously, after you get it out of the pot and assess the roots you may want to try the root-over-rock approach. That's what I'm going to do with one of my tridents that looks a lot like yours. Good luck!
Andrew Legg
Mame
Shan, one must build a tree from the base up. From what I see this tree needs a new set of roots. First though you must decide how much of that trunk you want to use. With that lumpy bit in the middle common sense would suggest it comes off below that point. Your problem then becomes that you have a short fat stump, and growing a new leader to reed tend the trunk will take many many years, even in the ground. You are also going to have a monster scar to hide.
If this were my tree I'd do nothing to the top, but I'd ground layer next spring to get a new root base with better flare. I'd grow it in the ground for three years as is to improve the new roots, and either in year two or three I'd cut it diagonally under the scar and then notch down in the front of the tree accentuating the cut. I'd then grow a new slightly wild branch structure.
I have a tree I've done this with (not the root bit, the second bit). I should have ground grown it longer . . . . . Probably will next season, but it gives you an idea. The long thin whip is a root graft in process so ignore it.
Food for thought.
If this were my tree I'd do nothing to the top, but I'd ground layer next spring to get a new root base with better flare. I'd grow it in the ground for three years as is to improve the new roots, and either in year two or three I'd cut it diagonally under the scar and then notch down in the front of the tree accentuating the cut. I'd then grow a new slightly wild branch structure.
I have a tree I've done this with (not the root bit, the second bit). I should have ground grown it longer . . . . . Probably will next season, but it gives you an idea. The long thin whip is a root graft in process so ignore it.
Food for thought.
Shan Anand
Sapling
Thanks Andrew for the input.. Much appreciated
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