New to bonsai tree triming help

The next step is repotting. You'll want to start researching that in preparation for repotting season in early spring. The leaves will fall on the elm and lorapetalum (lorapetalum is evergreen in my climate, but I'm guessing it will be deciduous in yours). The azalea will keep its leaves though they'll bronze up a bit. You'll have a bit of a break as the plants enter dormancy. Just make sure they don't dry out - it can be easy to forget them when they're out-of-sight and out-of-mind. You can use the downtime to learn about repotting, make some choices about what kind of soil you want to use, and get the material you need to do it. You'll want a fast draining mix and it will be a lot coarser than what they're planted in now. You'll find that they're much easier to take care of once that's done.

Scott
 
The next step is repotting. You'll want to start researching that in preparation for repotting season in early spring. The leaves will fall on the elm and lorapetalum (lorapetalum is evergreen in my climate, but I'm guessing it will be deciduous in yours). The azalea will keep its leaves though they'll bronze up a bit. You'll have a bit of a break as the plants enter dormancy. Just make sure they don't dry out - it can be easy to forget them when they're out-of-sight and out-of-mind. You can use the downtime to learn about repotting, make some choices about what kind of soil you want to use, and get the material you need to do it. You'll want a fast draining mix and it will be a lot coarser than what they're planted in now. You'll find that they're much easier to take care of once that's done.

Scott
Both Loropetalum and Chinese elms are OFTEN evergreen in Northern Europe (zone 8a+) - not only because of the relatively warm (wet) winters we have but also because we get imported bonsai which are from even warmer zones.
 
Both Loropetalum and Chinese elms are OFTEN evergreen in Northern Europe (zone 8a+) - not only because of the relatively warm (wet) winters we have but also because we get imported bonsai which are from even warmer zones.

Thanks Jerry!

Scott
 
Ok thanks guys ill start researching repoting. My elms is slowly dropping it's leaves so I don't think mine is a evergreen
 
But it dose still look healthy it dropped it's leaves when I first got it but then grow them back now slowly losing them again
 
But it dose still look healthy it dropped it's leaves when I first got it but then grow them back now slowly losing them again

That's the death cycle these elms go through when they're kept inside under poor conditions for that long. They weaken and die from constantly putting out new growth only to have it yellow off and die. Over time the tree doesn't have enough energy to push any new growth and that's the end. Hopefully we got it out in time, that most of the growth was hardened off, and it has enough energy left for a growth push in spring

Scott
 
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I'm sure we have its still has a few leaves left.

The picture is just before I started to keep it outside
 

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Gook UK orientated collection of Bonsai Videos from Graham Potter Potter, search for Graham Potter. I tried posting direct link to list of his videos, but it displays incorrectly. His cultural advise is for UK, and he is an excellent teacher of technique. Tends to work on larger material, but the techniques of wiring, shaping and pruning all apply to smaller trees, just need to scale down what you do.

The reason trees need to be outside day & night for as much of the year the temperatures allow is the temperature change between day and night is important for their metabolism. Trees use the sugars they produce during the day to fuel their cell growth, day and night. During the day, its warmer, and they use the sugars they produce at a high rate. At night it is cooler, and they use less sugars. A 7 to 10 C temperature change between day and night allows the tree to accumulate sugars, which can then be used for growth. If you bring your trees into a warm house at night, the tree will use up most of the sugars it produced during the day, leaving little left over for new growth.

Since it is autumn now, and your trees have not had time to acclimate fully to winter. I suggest leaving them outside, except on nights where it will drop below 0 C, or 32 F. IF you have an unheated sun porch or other area that stays frost free but cooler than the living area of the house, move them there when temps dip below freezing. This is call the "dance of the trees" when you have to keep moving them all the time. Next year, after they have been outside all summer and naturally acclimated by experiencing a lengthy autumn, you can leave them out all winter. But this year you will be stuck with having to protect them from below freezing.

Even though Loropetalum is a "hot weather loving" tree, it does need a cool dormancy to grow well in spring. The azalea likes cooler summer weather, most of the UK is perfect for them. Azalea too need a cool rest to initiate the spring flush of growth.

For 100% indoor plants, look for true tropicals. Ficus is perfect for the generally low light levels of most indoor settings. Artificial light gardens can be bright enough for sun loving tropicals if one sets them up right. Eugenia and other members of the guava family do well in bright light set ups indoors. Also Malphigia, (Acerola) does well under lights. There are many more. Explore.
 
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Gook UK orientated collection of Bonsai Videos from Graham Potter Potter, search for Graham Potter. I tried posting direct link to list of his videos, but it displays incorrectly. His cultural advise is for UK, and he is an excellent teacher of technique. Tends to work on larger material, but the techniques of wiring, shaping and pruning all apply to smaller trees, just need to scale down what you do.

The reason trees need to be outside day & night for as much of the year the temperatures allow is the temperature change between day and night is important for their metabolism. Trees use the sugars they produce during the day to fuel their cell growth, day and night. During the day, its warmer, and they use the sugars they produce at a high rate. At night it is cooler, and they use less sugars. A 7 to 10 C temperature change between day and night allows the tree to accumulate sugars, which can then be used for growth. If you bring your trees into a warm house at night, the tree will use up most of the sugars it produced during the day, leaving little left over for new growth.

Since it is autumn now, and your trees have not had time to acclimate fully to winter. I suggest leaving them outside, except on nights where it will drop below 0 C, or 32 F. IF you have an unheated sun porch or other area that stays frost free but cooler than the living area of the house, move them there when temps dip below freezing. This is call the "dance of the trees" when you have to keep moving them all the time. Next year, after they have been outside all summer and naturally acclimated by experiencing a lengthy autumn, you can leave them out all winter. But this year you will be stuck with having to protect them from below freezing.

Even though Loropetalum is a "hot weather loving" tree, it does need a cool dormancy to grow well in spring. The azalea likes cooler summer weather, most of the UK is perfect for them. Azalea too need a cool rest to initiate the spring flush of growth.

For 100% indoor plants, look for true tropicals. Ficus is perfect for the generally low light levels of most indoor settings. Artificial light gardens can be bright enough for sun loving tropicals if one sets them up right. Eugenia and other members of the guava family do well in bright light set ups indoors. Also Malphigia, (Acerola) does well under lights. There are many more. Explore.
thanks and i will do.
at the minute i leave them out all day and night but for the Loropetalum i bring that in when i go bed but my flat gets cold over night so its still getting a cold night and ill bring the other two in when we have a -0 night thanks
 
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