Need Pro Advice concerning pseudomonas

[JudyB]

Must have been, I feel safer knowing that I have some now. It's good to have backup....

 

[GrimLore]

will copper work?

To the best of my knowledge no as pseudomonas syringae is of bacterial origin. Agri-mycin 17 fungicide and ZeroTol both contain what is needed to kill the bacteria. Copper mixed with other compounds can be used to "control" infested areas but that requires more chemical knowledge then I feel is worth researching. Just better in my humble opinion to get what works. Cleaning all surfaces with chlorine of pots, tools, fencing, stands and stones is necessary as well. In my case I removed a little over a yard of earth and substrate along with the plants. All was picked up a sent to landfill for disposal. Cleanup will be repeated along with treatment of the area for several days.

Grimmy

 

[GrimLore]

will copper work?

I forgot to mention that those two products along with a few others work because even though they are "dubbed" a fungicide they are ALSO are a bactericide making them multipurpose. Just sharing with you and others from my rather rude learning process

Grimmy

 

[Jester217300]

Hey Grimmy.. I'm sorry to hear about your troubles. But I wanted to thank you for posting. Look what I found in my garden!











Fortunately, in my case, the material is not valuable.

Now I know what it is, and how to deal with it, and that's because you shared your information here with us.

 

[GrimLore]

Hey Grimmy.. I'm sorry to hear about your troubles. But I wanted to thank you for posting. Look what I found in my garden!

Fortunately, in my case, the material is not valuable.

Now I know what it is, and how to deal with it, and that's because you shared your information here with us.

Thank you for the pictures. I was "not up to" a photo journal at the time of disposal. Sorry to see it as well

Grimmy

 

[Dav4]

That's what my shishi layers looked like. Personally, I suspect a fungal pathogen like V. wilt.

 

[GrimLore]

That's what my shishi layers looked like. Personally, I suspect a fungal pathogen like V. wilt.

Mine looked very similar but as I noted earlier all the trees here that got hit started to bud but stalled and never progressed. None of them here had a single leaf. After that three week period in 48 hours or so they all had every symptom and were so bad all went to landfill. Nasty stuff Nature hands us sometimes.

Grimmy

 

[Dav4]

I'm not saying you had V. wilt. I've had another maple tank in a similar way after root work a few years back. I suspect the root work is introducing the pathogen into the roots and fatally infecting the tree.

 

[GrimLore]

I'm not saying you had V. wilt. I've had another maple tank in a similar way after root work a few years back. I suspect the root work is introducing the pathogen into the roots and fatally infecting the tree.

I understand - According to the Penn State Cooperative extension a few areas in PA were hit pretty hard because of the long exceptionally damp weather we had between summer like conditions. Once I see things bud I never thought about the weather and location of the plants. Lesson learned, much work and much shopping to do next season. That wilt looks brutal as well - is it strictly fungal?

Grimmy

 

[Dav4]

Anything compromising the vasculature will cause wilting so I suppose there are some bacterial culprits out there, too

 

[coh]

Borers can do that (cause wilting) as well. I've had a big increase in borer activity the past 2 years, so far mainly attacking trees in the ground. Look up "granulate ambrosia beetle", (i.e. http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/insects/beetles/granulate-ambrosia-beetle.aspx) very nasty creature. In addition to boring tunnels through the trunk that can kill the tree, they introduce a fungus which is what the larva actually feed on. Sometimes they bring things like fusarium in as well. Trees may die from the boring, the fungus, or both.

 

[0soyoung]

I'm not saying you had V. wilt. I've had another maple tank in a similar way after root work a few years back. I suspect the root work is introducing the pathogen into the roots and fatally infecting the tree.

This doesn'tseem likely; regardless, verticillium is fairly easy to positively identify as it causes dark streaks in the xylem (seen as ring-like in a stem cross-section). IOW, just do a little autopsy of necrotic stems.

Further, dipping the roots in 2 tbl (3%) hydrogen peroxide per quart of water or using ZeroTol when repotting ought to remedy your suspicions (fungal and bacterial). Of course, you can also apply the solution as a root drench of potted plants (just wave good bye to any beneficial micorhizza in the pot, too).

Last, but not least, don't forget to sterilize your cutting tools, especially when you may be dealing with infected tissues. Isopropyl alcohol (70%) that you can get at a pharmacy, hardware store, and most grocers is effective and won't damage your cutters. Hydrogen peroxide (3%) will work as well though it will oxidize metals which may discolor the metal.

 

[wireme]

Wow, I thought I was going to be reading about a tree. Crazy story man, backhoes, soil removal, landfills, all for a bacteria eh? I feel for you, sorry to hear about all this! Didn't get the big quince bush did it?

 

[wireme]

This doesn'tseem likely; regardless, verticillium is fairly easy to positively identify as it causes dark streaks in the xylem (seen as ring-like in a stem cross-section). IOW, just do a little autopsy of necrotic stems.

Further, dipping the roots in 2 tbl (3%) hydrogen peroxide per quart of water or using ZeroTol when repotting ought to remedy your suspicions (fungal and bacterial). Of course, you can also apply the solution as a root drench of potted plants (just wave good bye to any beneficial micorhizza in the pot, too).

Last, but not least, don't forget to sterilize your cutting tools, especially when you may be dealing with infected tissues. Isopropyl alcohol (70%) that you can get at a pharmacy, hardware store, and most grocers is effective and won't damage your cutters. Hydrogen peroxide (3%) will work as well though it will oxidize metals which may discolor the metal.

Fungal mycelium is actually quite resistant to h2o2, the stuff does a number on fungal spores though, your beneficial myc has a pretty good chance of remaining.

 

[GrimLore]

Borers can do that (cause wilting) as well. I've had a big increase in borer activity the past 2 years, so far mainly attacking trees in the ground. Look up "granulate ambrosia beetle", (i.e. http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/insects/beetles/granulate-ambrosia-beetle.aspx) very nasty creature. In addition to boring tunnels through the trunk that can kill the tree, they introduce a fungus which is what the larva actually feed on. Sometimes they bring things like fusarium in as well. Trees may die from the boring, the fungus, or both.

Almost gets to a point where a simple Home Garden, Roses, flowers, and vegetables seems better So many damn things to fend off

Grimmy

 

[GrimLore]

Didn't get the big quince bush did it?

That one is at the farm, has been culled back to a reasonable size and is looking great. The Quince I had here though has gone to landfill "sigh".

Grimmy

 

[GrimLore]

Update: All of anything that could be sent to landfill including substrate and about 1 1/2 yards of nearby topsoil. All shelves, fencing, pots and tools received a generous 5 chlorine baths, and have replanted grass in the surrounding area and it is doing good in its new topsoil. I am two treatments in with the Bactericide and all else seems to be going ok. Spoke with Penn State Agri and The Bactericide manufacturer today and both gave me a ok to go so to speak. I may still loose a rather large Yoshino Cherry in landscape but working with an Arborist. It is manageable, just a huge amount of work. It has hit in several areas here in PA according to all I have contacted.

Grimmy