My new, cheap, azalea “bonsai”

I took this one home today! First order of business is figuring out a long term plan for the roots. Looking at it, I keep going back and forth on whether I like them exposed! I think for the time being, I’ll cover them as @Deep Sea Diver recommends, but I wonder what really leaning into them might achieve…

I’ll be doing some research on rhodie care, as I know very little about the genus.
 
Hmm…

If a neagari is wanted, would recommend doing research on how to create a negari azalea. and get started on this process next spring. Until then consider how to push back the foliage.

Your tree, your choice.

cheers
DSD sends
 
What time of year would you recommend for trimming this tree with the goal of pushing back foliage? One of the reasons I was drawn to this tree was that I understand the general principles of doing that, but don’t have any trees that need that sort of technique at the moment.
 
Don’t know for sure as we work with few rhodys in pots, all different than the one in question. We work with lots in the landscape, yet that is a whole different scenario.

Generally potted Satsuki azalea cut backs are done in two specific times of the year. Larger cut backs in early spring when buds begin to green up and post flowering pruning late spring/early summer after the flowers are 80% spent.

This tree appears to be something similar to a Blue Diamond Rhododendron or Ramapo. Likely bloom earlier than the run of the mill Satsuki, more like most Kurume.

Be aware some azaleas and rhodys (especially smaller cultivars imho) resent being cut back….

A good general rule is to cut back to green for 100% positive response, hard cutbacks vary in response from 75% to much less depending on the cultivar, health of the tree and seasonal timing. (One of the reasons it was mentioned to cover the roots.)

It will be instructive to see the results of your experimenting.

Cheers
DSD sends.
 
What time of year would you recommend for trimming this tree with the goal of pushing back foliage? One of the reasons I was drawn to this tree was that I understand the general principles of doing that, but don’t have any trees that need that sort of technique at the moment.
I took this one home today! First order of business is figuring out a long term plan for the roots. Looking at it, I keep going back and forth on whether I like them exposed! I think for the time being, I’ll cover them as @Deep Sea Diver recommends, but I wonder what really leaning into them might achieve…

I’ll be doing some research on rhodie care, as I know very little about the genus.
Yeah, I was totally undecided how I felt about those roots, but the tree was growing that way so I repotted it that way until I could cut it back. I had a feeling once I cut it back the roots would look better buried.
It was recommended to me to only cut back to growth, which in general is a safe practice. I do know the ones in my yard can be cut to stumps and then will back bud like crazy. Not sure if the potted ones could handle it.
 
I am fond of azaleas and have quite a few as bonsai, but they were just landscape plants, not anything fancy like satsuki. One thing I learned was that this type of azalea has quite a bit of dieback when trimmed. IDK if this applies to your tree but something to keep in mind.

Such a pretty tree!
 
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Took DSD’s advice and worked some chopped sphag and pumice (since I just picked up 10 cubic feet…) into the exposed roots. I quite like how this looks, as I feel pike the roots look stronger now, and it will encourage more fine rooting near the surface. This angle shows my tentative front.
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Many of the branches have a humber of small branchlets growing along them, which is encourage for a cut back. It seems that it has the capacity to backbud heavily, so I’ll try to be patient and only cut back to new growth in the spring.
 

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I like the look of it covered for now. It gives me the impression of a powerful tree on top of a small hill.

I really need to get my garage organized again so I can set up my backdrop. Gotta take some pictures of the new additions
 
@Dysfunctional Vet is this tree deciduous? I didn’t realize that some rhodies were and neglected to ask. I noticed a few yellow leaves today, and was wondering if that might be an issue that needs addressing.
 
That root flare looks amazing. Are you expecting it to grow finer roots to get thicker nebari coverage?
 
Is this cause for concern? It’s also dropped a few leaves, so i’m hoping its just deciduous!
 

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Azaleas and rhodies both only appear to be evergreen. Both of these shrubs produce both spring and summer leaves
Developing two different leaf types throughout the year is called ‘Dimorphic’. This phenomenon happens in many of the members of the Ericaceae Family.
Spring leaves tend to be larger and grow along the branches, while summer leaves tend to cluster at the end of branches and branchlets. When putting azaleas in storage it is good to strip off the spring leaves as these can cause fungus.

The colors of the spring leaves on Azaleas can vary from bright red to yellow… sometimes tinged in red. Haven’t noticed and Rhodies with red, but wouldn’t be surprised if they did.

Examples:

R. kiusianum (Mountain azalea)

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Juko - A satsuki

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Good news. Actually one might want to completely cover the surface with presoaked spagnum
btw: There is another shrub in the in the family Kalmia latifolia, mountain laurel that may actually also turn out to be a decent bonsai specimen.

….. worked some chopped sphag and pumice (since I just picked up 10 cubic feet…) into the exposed roots. I quite like how this looks, as I feel pike the roots look stronger now, and it will encourage more fine rooting near the surface. This angle shows my tentative front.

Many of the branches have a humber of small branchlets growing along them, which is encourage for a cut back. It seems that it has the capacity to backbud heavily, so I’ll try to be patient and only cut back to new growth in the spring.

Actually one might want to work even more presoaked sphagnum into the top of the media. Thicker the better.

Looks and even front really don’t matter at this stage.… esp. going into the winter. But will in a couple years once one figures out how the rhodo actually responds to your horticultural practice and environmen.

cheers
DSD sends
 
Thanks as always DSD! Do either of you azalea experts have any good starting resources for me to check out? I’ve read the overwintering guide a few times, and my post about my plans thereupon is coming soon!
 
Is this cause for concern? It’s also dropped a few leaves, so i’m hoping its just deciduous!
Sorry, I was tied up. Lol
It did the same thing last year. Kept newer growth dumped the old stuff. Last year I was concerned because it makes it leggy and quick. I was unsure if it would back bud so I just repotted and let it grow. The new interior growth was the result and an exciting one for me.
As far as overwintering it, it sat on the rocks next to the house where all my trees are at.
 
Well the little rhody got new soil and then was left to grow. I left the roots out, because why not? “I also, like to live dangerously”. Lol. Has a lot of new interior growth which I’m excited to cut back to next year. View attachment 513895View attachment 513896View attachment 513897
Love your rhody. I like the nebari, but I am a but confused as to the comments to cover it. I have exposed root azaleas that I bought at Brussel’s, and they are doing fine, and I live in a high desert. It definitely looks as if you do not live in a desert, and it looks as if the plant is doing great. Please post pics after the cut back.
 
This tree is in the Seattle area, definitely not the high desert.
 
The reason to cover the raised roots is to encourage them to throw out more fine roots. When I repot this tree, I will likely scrape some bark off of the elevated roots to try to encourage more. They’re certainly not getting buried permanently!
 
I took @Deep Sea Diver ’s advice and worked some soil into the raised roots. First, I cut a strip of drainage mesh about the circumference of the raised roots. I wrapped this strip around the roots, then added a few wires to stake it down into the soil, and finally used another piece of wire to join the mesh into a ring. I filled the ring with shohin grain kanuma and worked it in with a chopstick (I feel this portion—and the stability I made with the ring—were really important!) until it was stable on its own. Finally, topped with some shredded sphagnum moss.

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I am very pleased with the results. Previously, I had concerns about the stability of the tree, which I attempted to correct with wire under the bottom of the pot, but this did not work. After chopsticking the soil, the stability of this tree is substantially better, and I feel good that it will be able to grow fine roots before next repot. Hopefully, some of those fine roots emerge within this ring I’ve made. The nice thing about the drainage mesh is that I should be able to see them if they grow very well!

Oh, and I forgot to mention that this tree is starting to bloom. Plan is to cut back pretty substantially after the flowers are cut off.
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