LanceMac10
Imperial Masterpiece
...didn't want to use the "G" word, since I've never done one....but you need to decide what you want it to look like....
My Main Tree Purchase for the Year....JBP Advice Needed Please
- Thread starter just.wing.it
- Start date
...didn't want to use the "G" word, since I've never done one....but you need to decide what you want it to look like....
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
I know I need to remove many branches....just want to make sure this is an ok time to do it, with new growth pushing....?
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
I plan to employ @Smoke 's Stick Figure bonsai with it tonight....
I'm just freaked out about potential sap waterfalls if I cut out unwanted branches now.
LanceMac10
Imperial Masterpiece
Pretty rugged looking wheel branches. Probably remove out of proportion growth in favor of the smaller growth. Some nasty "taper" up top.
I think I would be ok with cutting in a week or two, dependent on night time temps holding in the fifties. Seal cuts on cutting, but shouldn't "bleed" too much?
I think I would be ok with cutting in a week or two, dependent on night time temps holding in the fifties. Seal cuts on cutting, but shouldn't "bleed" too much?
ihaveaspaceship
Shohin
You could wire some of the branches downward to let in light & stimulate some inner growth. They could be good cut back points in winter. The tree looks pretty healthy, i'd lean toward a literati style wise.
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
Much appreciated input my friend.
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
I prefer the Bonide Infuse granular systemic. I has worked very well for needle cast. If not readily available in your area then try online with Do It Yourself Pest Control and have it shipped to your house.
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
Thanks again kind sir! Appreciate the recommendation.
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
Simply decandle the unwanted branches for now, remove some of the foliage off them, wire them down. Then wait for the right time to remove them after you have figured out the overall! This tree is not a simple one to work with and you have lots of time. That way you open the canopy to strengthen the smaller branches, and slow down the unwanted branches. Don't forget to wire up the best thicker branch to become the apical leader.
Your priority should be treating the needle cast, yes that is what you found, and keeping the tree healthy for a fall repot. Likely 1/2 HBR, followed by the same in the spring if the response is strong. Competing strong branches can be removed late winter and sealed, prior to the second 1/2 HBR.
Note: the tree looks pretty healthy, that is a small amount of needle cast, so lots of time to order and use the systemic. I suggest a treatment when it arrives this spring and then a similar treatment 6 weeks after the first 1/2 HBR . I would do the first 1/2 HBR in mid to late august for your area.
LanceMac10
Imperial Masterpiece
Don't know your thoughts on "soil", but use Akadama, pumice and lava as your next potting medium. In my opinion, it's the best for JBP hands down.
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
I was going to wait till next spring to repot, to play it safe.
@LanceMac10 I've been rocking lava pumice and Fir Bark.
I've been sketched out about buying bad Akadama....how do I know if its the good shit?
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
I think something like this is in order for this evening after the kid goes nighty-nite.
Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
+1 send vigour to other areas you're keeping.
I would make sure the systemic was in use prior to cutting anything (what copper are you using @just.wing.it ?).
Leave the stub too to dry out and +1 on the cut paste right upon cut.
Sterilize
I use a pickle jar, to hold a tall shot glass that I pre and post soak my tools in.
Otherwise the shot glass falls over
Then my wife lets me use her cotton-like make up rounds to clean the edge of sap and disease then trash them.
Don't reuse a rag on your tools.
Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
Alchohol soak. Sorry
LanceMac10
Imperial Masterpiece
Smoke it? 
But seriously, if you have to, go on-line and get some pre-packaged stuff from a well known and respected source. Yes, stupid money, but I'm telling you, no regrets.
But seriously, if you have to, go on-line and get some pre-packaged stuff from a well known and respected source. Yes, stupid money, but I'm telling you, no regrets.
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
I have this copper....which is a liquid.+1 send vigour to other areas you're keeping.
I would make sure the systemic was in use prior to cutting anything (what copper are you using @just.wing.it ?).
Leave the stub too to dry out and +1 on the cut paste right upon cut.
Sterilize
I use a pickle jar, to hold a tall shot glass that I pre and post soak my tools in.
Otherwise the shot glass falls over
Then my wife lets me use her cotton-like make up rounds to clean the edge of sap and disease then trash them.
Don't reuse a rag on your tools.
And this sulfur, which is powder....
Honestly I've never used either....but maybe I should learn.
Is the copper liquid similar to what @River's Edge was referencing?
Japonicus
Imperial Masterpiece
Phyton 27
Growers call Phyton 27 their “secret weapon” or “silver bullet” because it performs when other chemicals and controls fail.
I'm using 1/3 tsp/qt or 1/2 tsp/36 or so Oz of water.
Using its' own little 50 Oz sprayer, I not conceded with blending chemicals inside.
I'm not sure if the "copper soap" is systemic or not, but the copper sulphate pentahydrate is.
I wish I could find @Adair M s thread on don't let needle cast start. A link would be helpful.
It's a great read on timing and the effort. pretty sure he uses Clearys.
There's a picture of the JBP I lost to needle cast in that thread.
The neem oil, I doubt would be very beneficial for whatever fungicidal offerings it has.
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
More recent supplies of Double Red Line brand have been much harder and work well. It is the only brand I use, seems readily available in the PNW and some locations in Canada.
I spray with Copper fungicide and Daconil, alternating between the two. I also use a systemic granular fungicide Bonide Infuse granular fungicide. It has the same active ingredient as Cleary’s 3336.2 Oz size should last a long time. Sleeve, and glove up.Phyton 27
Growers call Phyton 27 their “secret weapon” or “silver bullet” because it performs when other chemicals and controls fail.store.phytoncorp.com
I'm using 1/3 tsp/qt or 1/2 tsp/36 or so Oz of water.
Using its' own little 50 Oz sprayer, I not conceded with blending chemicals inside.
I'm not sure if the "copper soap" is systemic or not, but the copper sulphate pentahydrate is.
I wish I could find @Adair M s thread on don't let needle cast start. A link would be helpful.
It's a great read on timing and the effort. pretty sure he uses Clearys.
There's a picture of the JBP I lost to needle cast in that thread.
The neem oil, I doubt would be very beneficial for whatever fungicidal offerings it has.
View attachment 299427
River's Edge
Imperial Masterpiece
Similar only in that it is a fungicide, not a systemic fungicide. A systemic works by being transported through the roots into the vascular system, working to kill the final infection from within. The other types deal with the fungal infection on the surface only! Consider the others as preventative, but not a cure.
I used the preventative ones when I wish to keep trees from coming down with something, not after they are infected.
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