Mulberry layer, too successful?

James W.

Chumono
Messages
739
Reaction score
886
Location
Augusta, KS
USDA Zone
6b
I am happy with the results of this mulberry ground layer from a weed in the yard. I had been thinking about tying it to a rock for a good start on a ROR but am thinking that the base is too big to get it to set on a rock so now I think I want to pursue a nice nebari on this thing. I am planning on screwing it onto a board and arranging the roots radially before putting it into an Anderson flat to grow.
The question is: How many roots is too many? Should I reduce the roots to 8, 12 or 20?
Mulberry2_1.jpgMulberry2_2.jpgMulberry2_3.jpg
 

Shibui

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
7,742
Reaction score
15,583
Location
Yackandandah, Australia
USDA Zone
9?
I don't think there's such a thing as too many roots.
Most of the roots will thicken as they grow. Any that are close or touching will gradually fuse together. Lots of roots is how the Japanese growers develop the pancake nebari so if you want to pursue that look leave as many as possible.
If you don't want the pancake you can thin out the roots. I'd still leave plenty where possible. Maybe thin to leave 1/4 inch spaces?

I am planning on screwing it onto a board and arranging the roots radially
Aren't the roots already radial? There's no need to use a board when the roots are already heading outward. Those roots are already set. They won't suddenly change direction and bend downward. Any new ones that do head down can be trimmed off at future transplants. Much easier than messing with a board but if you really want to do it be my guest.
 

JudyB

Queen of the Nuts
Messages
13,817
Reaction score
23,429
Location
South East of Cols. OH
USDA Zone
6a
Mulberrys are such strong rooters, I would thin if I wanted separation in the nebari later on. But I think I would only take roots that were going the wrong direction at this point, leave lots for the first year. Nice layer!
 

19Mateo83

Masterpiece
Messages
3,440
Reaction score
7,666
Location
Charlotte, NC 7B
USDA Zone
7b
That is impressive, I hope I have the same result when I air layer a big one this year.
 

Dabbler

Shohin
Messages
351
Reaction score
516
I have a mulberry that the roots go bonkers - if you leave them they will fuse - but that's not really a bad thing. At this point i'd just leave it then the next repot you can decide what direction to take.
 

Gabler

Masterpiece
Messages
2,582
Reaction score
3,642
Location
The Delmarva Peninsula
USDA Zone
7a
Keep all of those roots. You can't have too many roots. That said, if you're still worried it's too much, remember that it's easier to take off extra roots later than to add more later.
 

James W.

Chumono
Messages
739
Reaction score
886
Location
Augusta, KS
USDA Zone
6b
I guess I forgot I can cut more off later if I don't like them. I am not interested in a fused pancake nebari so think I will thin them a bit.
Thank you, all.
 

Gabler

Masterpiece
Messages
2,582
Reaction score
3,642
Location
The Delmarva Peninsula
USDA Zone
7a
I guess I forgot I can cut more off later if I don't like them. I am not interested in a fused pancake nebari so think I will thin them a bit.
Thank you, all.

Also, it takes years of growing on a board for masters to fuse roots into a pancake. It's not going to happen before your next repot. For now, just let it grow and get established.
 

Dabbler

Shohin
Messages
351
Reaction score
516
also your getting revers taper with those three trunk - may want to address that
 

James W.

Chumono
Messages
739
Reaction score
886
Location
Augusta, KS
USDA Zone
6b
also your getting revers taper with those three trunk - may want to address that
Those three branches are actually coming off at different heights from the angled chop, and yes, they are not all keepers. The "reverse taper" you are seeing is the knob of the trunk healing over the chop scar, it is not as bad as the picture makes it look. It will grow out when the trunk thickens up.
We will see what kinds of buds pop, I think I will have lots of options to sort out the top.
 
Top Bottom