Miracle Grow Potting Mix Okay For Now?

[Naomanos]

I have Miracle Grow potting mix on hand and it has some organic stuff in it along with perlite. It seems to drain pretty well in another pot that I have.

I cannot convince my wife that I need better soil, so for now I am unable to get bonsai soil. I would rather order it then have to make my own. Getting the screening material and stuff is beyond what I can do here at the apartment. So pre-made stuff will have to do until we buy a house in a few years.

 

[skrit]

It probably is 'OK' for now. Moisture in the pot (damp but not wet) at all times is what you're aiming for. Normally potting soil stays a bit too moist and may encourage root rot.

Adding some coarse sand or tiny pebbles are a quick way to improve drainage. In your situation, perhaps that might work easily, as you can practically scoop it up on the side of the road (in some areas, perhaps not in yours). Emphasis on coarse when it comes to sand (larger grain is better) but whatever you can get your hands on will probably help.

If you get miracle grow, try your best to avoid the 'moisture control' version.

Could you let us know what kind of tree you're working with and where/when you got it? Perhaps a picture? It might encourage others to weigh in.

Good Luck and Welcome!

 

[timetravel_0]

For your Ficus, right? Napa Floor Dry part #8822.

Easily drains, hold moisture well enough, and all you'll have to do is rinse the dust off first. As easy as using bagged potting soil. Looks "fancy" too.

 

[Naomanos]

It probably is 'OK' for now. Moisture in the pot (damp but not wet) at all times is what you're aiming for. Normally potting soil stays a bit too moist and may encourage root rot.

Adding some coarse sand or tiny pebbles are a quick way to improve drainage. In your situation, perhaps that might work easily, as you can practically scoop it up on the side of the road (in some areas, perhaps not in yours). Emphasis on coarse when it comes to sand (larger grain is better) but whatever you can get your hands on will probably help.

If you get miracle grow, try your best to avoid the 'moisture control' version.

Could you let us know what kind of tree you're working with and where/when you got it? Perhaps a picture? It might encourage others to weigh in.

Good Luck and Welcome!

Thank you for your reply.

You can see what kind of tree and view pictures at my intro thread here: http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthr...Looking-For-An-Identification-And-Some-Advice

 

[Naomanos]

For your Ficus, right? Napa Floor Dry part #8822.

Easily drains, hold moisture well enough, and all you'll have to do is rinse the dust off first. As easy as using bagged potting soil. Looks "fancy" too.

Do I use that only or combined with the Miracle Grow?

 

[Poink88]

I use about 1/3 Turface, 1/3 Napa Floor Dry, 1/3 Miracle Grow potting soil on most of my mix. I also add a sprinkle of charcoal to this. Working fine so far.

I sift all of them using a kitchen sifter (almost like window scree sized) though I have a regular 3 stage bonsai sifter.

I do plan on using/adding more lava and pumice to this mix once I get cheaper source. It is an evolving project.

BTW, the Napa Floor Dry is diatomaceous earth (DE)...wear mask when sifting specially that one. The DE fines you can use for dusting to control insects anywhere dry.

 

[Naomanos]

I use about 1/3 Turface, 1/3 Napa Floor Dry, 1/3 Miracle Grow potting soil on most of my mix. I also add a sprinkle of charcoal to this. Working fine so far.

I sift all of them using a kitchen sifter (almost like window scree sized) though I have a regular 3 stage bonsai sifter.

I do plan on using/adding more lava and pumice to this mix once I get cheaper source. It is an evolving project.

Closest I have to a kitchen sifter is a screen colander. Looks like this:

I will look into the Napa Flor Dry.

 

[Poink88]

Closest I have to a kitchen sifter is a screen colander. Looks like this: View attachment 65277

I use something very similar.

Make sure you get the #8822 they seem to have a similar product but not made w/ same material.

 

[drew33998]

I use about 1/3 Turface, 1/3 Napa Floor Dry, 1/3 Miracle Grow potting soil on most of my mix. I also add a sprinkle of charcoal to this. Working fine so far.

I sift all of them using a kitchen sifter (almost like window scree sized) though I have a regular 3 stage bonsai sifter.

I do plan on using/adding more lava and pumice to this mix once I get cheaper source. It is an evolving project.

BTW, the Napa Floor Dry is diatomaceous earth (DE)...wear mask when sifting specially that one. The DE fines you can use for dusting to control insects anywhere dry.

I would experiment with it but not use floor dry for long. It is definitely better than miracle grow by itself but I have found in Jacksonville with our 52" per year rainfall and our warm zone 8-9 temps, it will break down rather quickly. It turns into "clay like mud" in the 1-2 year mark. Dario does not have the same amount of rainfall we have, though he is in a comparable zone. You can use any substrate you want, the main thing is your watering will be much different in a 90 percent organic substrate versus a 30 percent organic substrate. We tend to use non-organic substrates in bonsai because it forces the tree to grow fine feeder roots and is more "open" (in lieu of the larger roots for stability a tree will produce in organic substrate) providing the roots with the oxygen they need. The fine feeder roots are what supply the tree with nutrients. The stability roots are just that. Just my .02 cents.

 

[Naomanos]

I would experiment with it but not use floor dry for long. It is definitely better than miracle grow by itself but I have found in Jacksonville with our 52" per year rainfall and our warm zone 8-9 temps, it will break down rather quickly. It turns into "clay like mud" in the 1-2 year mark.

Is this still good advice for an all inside tree?

 

[KennedyMarx]

Do I use that only or combined with the Miracle Grow?

Just the NAPA Floor Dry. Make sure you get the one that says parts number 8822. It's diatomaceous earth. The other is fullers earth and will turn to slush. You have to fertilize more heavily with the floor dry than miracle grow. If you did use the miracle grow I would amend it with more perlite or even more floor dry.

 

[KennedyMarx]

I would experiment with it but not use floor dry for long. It is definitely better than miracle grow by itself but I have found in Jacksonville with our 52" per year rainfall and our warm zone 8-9 temps, it will break down rather quickly. It turns into "clay like mud" in the 1-2 year mark. Dario does not have the same amount of rainfall we have, though he is in a comparable zone. You can use any substrate you want, the main thing is your watering will be much different in a 90 percent organic substrate versus a 30 percent organic substrate. We tend to use non-organic substrates in bonsai because it forces the tree to grow fine feeder roots and is more "open" (in lieu of the larger roots for stability a tree will produce in organic substrate) providing the roots with the oxygen they need. The fine feeder roots are what supply the tree with nutrients. The stability roots are just that. Just my .02 cents.

Did you use the NAPA Floor Dry it another brand? They're not all the same. I haven't experienced any of the floor dry turning to mush after using it a couple winters now.

 

[drew33998]

Did you use the NAPA Floor Dry it another brand? They're not all the same. I haven't experienced any of the floor dry turning to mush after using it a couple winters now.

No it was most definitely Napa floor dry DE. I used it in three azaleas, 10 junipers, 4 jap maples, crepe myrtle. I did fertilize heavily though, so that could have contributed to what caused it to break down.

 

[Poink88]

Did you use the NAPA Floor Dry it another brand? They're not all the same. I haven't experienced any of the floor dry turning to mush after using it a couple winters now.

Same here. Also...is it the #8822?

 

[drew33998]

Just the NAPA Floor Dry. Make sure you get the one that says parts number 8822. It's diatomaceous earth. The other is fullers earth and will turn to slush. You have to fertilize more heavily with the floor dry than miracle grow. If you did use the miracle grow I would amend it with more perlite or even more floor dry.

I would do as Kennedy says here. Just get the floor dry and go from there.

 

[skrit]

Thank you for your reply.

You can see what kind of tree and view pictures at my intro thread here: http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthr...Looking-For-An-Identification-And-Some-Advice

Sorry, I totally disconnected and missed that the user name was the same as that other thread. I had figured that expense might be the main issue and thus suggested 'found' materials. The Floor Dry is a better option if you can find it.

 

[Naomanos]

Sorry, I totally disconnected and missed that the user name was the same as that other thread. I had figured that expense might be the main issue and thus suggested 'found' materials. The Floor Dry is a better option if you can find it.

No worries.

The Floor Dry is what I am going to go with.

I am going to mix it some with the potting mix that I have, the majority being the floor dry. I just feel better doing that.

 

[Anthony]

Hmm,

Miracle gro potting mix is the same as Pro-Mix ?

Call it a water holding ingredient. Organic [ you can sift out the perlite with a rice sieve 40 mesh ]
Needed is a none water holding ingredient, an inorganic.

Our Rainfall is 60" for say 6 months, dry for the other six. Humidty ?

Perhaps 70 to 80 to 90 % of the none water holding ingredient [ will still hold some water around itself ] by volume to 30 to 20 to 10 & Mircale gro.

How do you water? By Hose with finger, Hose with rose [ falls as gentle rain ] or by watering can by hand.

Do you water 3 times or try to do in one shot?

First pass, wets the surface, second pass 10 minutes or so later , wets the middle, third pass ten minutes or so, wets the bottom and drips.

Placement full sun, windy or no wind ? Evaporation rate ?

Plant controls the pot, root bound or lots of soil little root ?

Depth of pot ?

Lots of observations --------- takes 3 to 5 years watering every day to learn how to water.

These factors will decide how you mix your soil.

Down here the simplest mix is just 5mm builder's gravel silica type and peat moss or coco moss by volume.
Good Day
Anthony

 

[Naomanos]

Hmm,

Miracle gro potting mix is the same as Pro-Mix ?

Call it a water holding ingredient. Organic [ you can sift out the perlite with a rice sieve 40 mesh ]
Needed is a none water holding ingredient, an inorganic.

Our Rainfall is 60" for say 6 months, dry for the other six. Humidty ?

Perhaps 70 to 80 to 90 % of the none water holding ingredient [ will still hold some water around itself ] by volume to 30 to 20 to 10 & Mircale gro.

How do you water? By Hose with finger, Hose with rose [ falls as gentle rain ] or by watering can by hand.

Do you water 3 times or try to do in one shot?

First pass, wets the surface, second pass 10 minutes or so later , wets the middle, third pass ten minutes or so, wets the bottom and drips.

Placement full sun, windy or no wind ? Evaporation rate ?

Plant controls the pot, root bound or lots of soil little root ?

Depth of pot ?

Lots of observations --------- takes 3 to 5 years watering every day to learn how to water.

These factors will decide how you mix your soil.

Down here the simplest mix is just 5mm builder's gravel silica type and peat moss or coco moss by volume.
Good Day
Anthony

Well, my tree will be strictly indoors if that answers your questions.

 

[KennedyMarx]

Lots of observations --------- takes 3 to 5 years watering every day to learn how to water.

I think that is BS. Just like soil mixes, it's not that complicated. If you're using nursery soil (dirt), water when it starts to dry out.