METAL TAGS OUT THERE FOR MARKING TREES

August44

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I TRY TO USE METAL/ALUMINUM TAGS TO HANG ON TREES AND PUT THE COMMON NAME, WHAT ZONE, WHEN COLLECTED, WHEN REPOTTED ETC. I HAVE TRIED SEVERAL TYPES. THERE IS THE TWO-SIDED IMPRESSIONABLE ONES THAT ARE PRETTY NEAT AND EASILY MARKED ON WITH A BALL POINT PEN THAT PUTS AN IMPRESSION IN THE ALUMINUM. YOU CAN DO BOTH SIDES AND THEY ARE PRETTY HANDY. THE PROBLEM I HAVE FOUND WITH THEM IS THAT THE SIDES ARE SEALED, BUT THE ENDS ARE NOT. THERE IS SOME TYPE OF PAPER TYPE BOARD IN BETWEEN THE PIECES OF METAL AND PRETTY SOON WATER COMES IN THE ENDS AND SOAKS THAT UP AND THINGS GO TO HECK AFTER THAT. THE TAG JUST FALLS APART AND LOOKS TERRIBLE. THEN I FOUND SOME THAT WERE PRETTY SOLID WITH NOTHING IN THE MIDDLE BUT THEY ARE ABOUT IMPOSSIBLE TO IMPRESS WITH A PEN OR ANYTHING ELSE EXCEPT A SMALL ENGRAVER WHICH TAKES TIME. ANY OF THESE TAGS THAT YOU WRITE ON WITH MARKERS ETC ARE A JOKE. THEY FADE OUT OR WASH OFF PRETTY QUICK.

ANYONE HAVE A BETTER IDEA OF WHAT I SHOULD BE USING? HELP APPRECIATED!
 
OMG WHATS UP WITH THE CAPS!!!???

I use these and keep a spreadsheet with information about each tree. I attach them to the tree with a cable tie. I've had trees with these tags on them for 10 years and the numbers are still very readable.

 
OMG WHATS UP WITH THE CAPS!!!???

I use these and keep a spreadsheet with information about each tree. I attach them to the tree with a cable tie. I've had trees with these tags on them for 10 years and the numbers are still very readable.

I would like something I can write on/inscribe and it stays there. I probably don't want to do the book thing. Only have so much time.
 
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Very bored once and did this, cut off the top and bottom, cut sides into strips. Fold the edges and hammer between to pieces of wood to crimp the edges so they aren’t sharp. Use a nail to make hole to hang and then use the mail to scribe the text.

Drink another beer and repeat!
 
Tags mostly seen hereabouts are small copper ones with tree number on them. Info is kept elsewhere. Wonder where these are found at🤔?
 
My ex's family used to run a salvage yard, and they used tags like you're talking about to label parts. Theirs were markable with a nail, twig, pen, whatever was handy, but only on one side because they didn't have paper center layer. Otherwise you can find paint markers that are the size of a normal permanent marker.
 
You can use the thin copper tags - they hold up better than generic metal. However strangely I find the copper tags get stolen a lot by birds and animals.

I have gone back to using standard white plastic nursery tags. I was having a problem with the markers bleaching in the sun, until I found out there are special "nursery markers" that are highly resistant to UV. Believe it or not I am currently running a test with two different types of markers to see which one lasts better (I have some test tags where I wrote two lines on each tag - each line with a different marker). The problem is, after six months, neither is showing slightest degree of bleaching/lightening, so if I go through the winter with neither fading, I will simply say BOTH work well. One just costs about 6x more than the other :)
 
You can use the thin copper tags - they hold up better than generic metal. However strangely I find the copper tags get stolen a lot by birds and animals.

I have gone back to using standard white plastic nursery tags. I was having a problem with the markers bleaching in the sun, until I found out there are special "nursery markers" that are highly resistant to UV. Believe it or not I am currently running a test with two different types of markers to see which one lasts better (I have some test tags where I wrote two lines on each tag - each line with a different marker). The problem is, after six months, neither is showing slightest degree of bleaching/lightening, so if I go through the winter with neither fading, I will simply say BOTH work well. One just costs about 6x more than the other :)
for the white plastic tags, writing with pencil instead of ink seems to last longer with uv loss.
 
Hi Peter,
Tagging with long lived tags is not a trivial problem. Metal tags of type or style noted by @vp999 being one sided work well, or well enough. I at one time used brass "coin shaped tags, with numbers", got 2 of each, one was tied to tree one was buried in the pot with the roots. The double tag was because just often enough a tag would fall off or get pulled off or knocked by bird or human. The tag buried in the pot was the "emergency" backup ID.

The number was then used on an inventory list on the old laptop. The numbered inventory got abandoned when I began to feel I was spending more time creating records, or inventory notes about my plants (orchids and bonsai) than growing orchids and bonsai. Where do you put your energy when time is short? Now that I'm retired, time isn't as pressing an issue, but I still resent time spent record keeping when I could be "correcting people who are wrong on the internet" just joking.

I found that the best for convenience is the plastic white plant tag and writing with a number 2 pencil. A pencil will slowly fade, but even when quite faded, there will be faint traces and usually scratch mark in the plastic you can read, even if difficult. Markers and ink pens tend to be fugitive, you can read them one day, then poof, they are faded so completely that nothing can be made out. Because markers are more like paint they don't leave the scratch mark in the plastic plant tag that a pencil does. Orchids, where provenance means price difference of hundreds of dollars, tagging is important, and for my money the plastic plant tag, and pencil are the way to go. I do often, for my "important plants" take a second plastic plant tag, break it in half so it is small enough to fit, and bury it in the pot, in the roots of the plant, not visible. Then if a squirrel or a two legged critter pulls the tag out of my pot, I can still recover the provenance when I repot the orchid or tree.

I had a visitor once who was nearly blind, he pulled the tag out of every plant he looked at in order to read the tag. He stuck the tag back, often in the plant next to or near by the original plant. It took me a year to straighten out the labelling of my orchids. I became less willing to have visitors. Fortunately I had already begun the practice of burying an extra tag in the pot. Once the repotting cycle was done, my labels were back in order.
 
When using regular white plastic nursery tags in pots that are for growing out plants, I like to make two tags. One I bury in the put and the other I leave visible. That way there is no problem with fading of with plants getting tags lost or switched.
I do use metal tags and I like them very much, but if you have a hundred maple seedlings you don't want to waste metal tags on these. On the more mature named cultivars, yes.
 
You can use the thin copper tags - they hold up better than generic metal. However strangely I find the copper tags get stolen a lot by birds and animals.

I have gone back to using standard white plastic nursery tags. I was having a problem with the markers bleaching in the sun, until I found out there are special "nursery markers" that are highly resistant to UV. Believe it or not I am currently running a test with two different types of markers to see which one lasts better (I have some test tags where I wrote two lines on each tag - each line with a different marker). The problem is, after six months, neither is showing slightest degree of bleaching/lightening, so if I go through the winter with neither fading, I will simply say BOTH work well. One just costs about 6x more than the other :)
Please share what two markers u are testing pls. I have used one labeled Staedtler permanent garden marker Lumocolor. I found it to be worthless.
 
I guess it depends on how much information you want to keep updated or how many trees you're dealing with. I put the species of tree, date purchased, where purchased and price on the list I keep. It doesn't take that long compared to writing it all down on the tag. If you are doing 40 or 50 trees a day, I get your point. The one or two I might acquire once or twice a year isn't that much time.

I did the white plastic tags and "permanent" marker that disappeared in a few months so ended up being worthless. At least with the numbered tags, it doesn't get lost
 
I guess it depends on how much information you want to keep updated or how many trees you're dealing with. I put the species of tree, date purchased, where purchased and price on the list I keep. It doesn't take that long compared to writing it all down on the tag. If you are doing 40 or 50 trees a day, I get your point. The one or two I might acquire once or twice a year isn't that much time.

I did the white plastic tags and "permanent" marker that disappeared in a few months so ended up being worthless. At least with the numbered tags, it doesn't get lost
I frequently use the number system when tracking seed/seedling development. It requires diligence but in the long run it takes less time.
Unfortunately I often try to rely on memory and that never bodes well.
 
I guess it depends on how much information you want to keep updated or how many trees you're dealing with. I put the species of tree, date purchased, where purchased and price on the list I keep. It doesn't take that long compared to writing it all down on the tag. If you are doing 40 or 50 trees a day, I get your point. The one or two I might acquire once or twice a year isn't that much time.

I did the white plastic tags and "permanent" marker that disappeared in a few months so ended up being worthless. At least with the numbered tags, it doesn't get lost

At one time I was keeping over 1300 different pots of orchids plus 50 or more pre-bonsai. I was repotting 50 plants a day in season. Currently I am under 100 orchids. Still around 50 pre-bonsai, and maybe 5 bonsai in display pots.

It is worth investing $40 for a box of 1000 new plant tags, rather than saving and recycling used ones.
 
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