Maple leaf Diagnosis?

GrimLore

Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
Messages
8,502
Reaction score
7,453
Location
South East PA
USDA Zone
6b
As Sandy said and as well as the tree having some issues last year I would suspect a weather issue as well. We have been having those unusual cold nights too and I am hoping tonight is the last one for the season. What I have noticed on what is left here the plants requires far less water and stay damp far longer. That is a perfect combination of weather and moisture to inspire fungal problems. Being confident you have done all else correctly; Copper is my go to along with less water and things respond well. I might add that it also has been rather windy so although the substrate may look dry that is just the top.

Grimmy
 

Skinnygoomba

Shohin
Messages
308
Reaction score
50
Location
New Jersey
USDA Zone
6b
I have been chalking up the occasional odd leaf to weird weather. They seem to come around very quickly when the weather warms back up.

Spiders are great, I catch them sometimes in my basement and put them in my garden. I had a bug eating my Korean Hornbeam leaves....sprayed once to no effect....put the spider in there and now my leaves are left alone.
 

sorce

Nonsense Rascal
Messages
32,914
Reaction score
45,606
Location
Berwyn, Il
USDA Zone
6.2
I found a spider who set up shop yesterday. He's about 1/32 in big, in a 3 inch web. He is my friend

Make that 3+.
First was in the west.
Second in the east pit.20150523_073847.jpg
3rd on the east sill.20150523_075843.jpg

Fully protected!

Sorce
 

FrankP999

Shohin
Messages
462
Reaction score
48
Location
Macon, Georgia U.S.A.
USDA Zone
8
I always wonder about you guys who spray copper just because you suspect :eek: FUNGUS!!! :eek:. I have every bit of the humidity you do, but fungal issues are rare with my trees and gardens. I have never used copper fungicide because there are better fungicides....
What fungicide(s) do you recommend? Thanks
 

Eric Group

Masterpiece
Messages
4,554
Reaction score
4,855
Location
Columbia, SC
I considered all options but I think a root issue is least likely. Tree is in good mix getting good drainage. I don't think rot is a possibility and since repot was a year ago I know it's not bound. My only guess is the problem from last year I had with it carried over. The last few weeks have been relatively dry. Spotty rain, more pollen falling than I have ever seen, tree was sitting in grow box in ground.
It does sound like you have a good potting mix, but just to clarify- root ROT is certainly not the only root issue out there, and one of the least common ones, yet most OVER diagnosed Issues our trees come down with IMO. Root aphids can ravage a tree and are completely unseen until you check for them... A tree like a Maple can become pot bound very quickly when growing happily as well which can lead to stunted/ slow growth and sometimes leave problems... But of course if you just out it into this grow box last year, that is not likely an issue yet... Then there are chemicals that can wreak all sorts of havoc on roots- ferts mixed too "hot", something you treated the leaves with that dripped heavily onto the soil and got into the dirt, as Oso was implying- something that leached out of the wood... So many options.

I don't know what exactly is ailing your tree man, just saying there are lots of things that can affect the roots negatively regardless of the soil it is in.

Hopefully it isn't anything major. Japanese Maples have very delicate leaves and a I find they often show little imperfections even when almost nothing is really wrong... Just too much sun, wind, heat... The new growth gets a little too dry or something real simple like that... Then all of a sudden we are freaking out that our tree might be sick when it is still growing strong and looks fine again after a few weeks of cooler weather or whatever...
 

0soyoung

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
7,503
Reaction score
12,879
Location
Anacortes, WA (AHS heat zone 1)
USDA Zone
8b
What fungicide(s) do you recommend? Thanks
I cannot make any specific recommendations.

I have been using Chlorothalonil.
I have used 2 tbls (3%) hydrogen peroxide per quart of water twice (this spring). This is the equivalent of ZeroTol at the label recommended dilution (or maybe it is 2x). ZeroTol is recommended by Michael Hagedorn (aka Cretageus Bonsai) as well as BNutters @garywood and @MACH5 (and maybe others of which I am unaware). H2O2 is an effective antiseptic in addition to being a fungicide and certainly environmentally friendly since the end products are just oxygen and water. I understand that it can also be used as a root drench (to combat root rot, say).
 
Top Bottom