Maple cuttings

Necrosis

Seedling
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Location
Central Texas
USDA Zone
8b
I've been bitten by the propagation bug. I realize that Maples are easier to propagate via air layering or grafting. However, after my complete and utter failure last year, I am compelled to solve this riddle. There are some good resources on this site, youtube, and other bonsai educational sites. However, I have yet to see a compiled source of information which is what I will attempt to do here. In addition, I'm performing a small experiment to determine which rooting medium is best.

So, in summary:

There are 2 ways to propagate Maple cuttings. You can propagate using semihard wood (this year's growth) after it has hardened off during the spring. This takes place approximately 6 weeks after the appearance of new foliage. You can also propagate via hardwood cuttings (1-year growth) before buds push during the spring.

The method cited by several people recommends taking cuttings that have at least 4 nodes (roughly 6 inches). The ends should be cut with a sharp knife to expose the cambium. Rooting hormone composed of the active ingredient IBA should be placed on the ends. There are several brands and types of IBA you can use. Be sure you are looking at the percent concentration of IBA. Hardwood cuttings require higher doses of IBA (somewhere between 0.1% and 0.3%). Be sure to note the concentration of IBA as some suspensions are unreasonably low (i.e. 0.00004%). Plant in soil medium. The options here are large. The most commonly cited soil types include perlite, sand, akadama, and sphagnum moss. I'm sure there are others but I will be sticking to these 3-4 in this experiment. It is recommended that the cuttings are placed into the soil covering at least 2 nodes. Place them into a plastic container with some sort of clear lid or plastic wrap. Water them once. The water initially placed in the container will help to keep the plant turgid until the plant can produce roots to allow for transpiration which can take anywhere from 2-6 weeks. Do not overwater as this can cause rot and promotion of pathogen. The container should be humid. Propagation resources commonly cite 80-90% humidity. I suppose if you are getting the formation of water droplets on the lid you are likely headed in the right direction. Keep out of direct sunlight but allow some indirect sunlight. Keep cuttings about 70F. The use of a bottom warmer 10 degrees above the ambient temperature will encourage the formation of roots as well.
 
But I have yet to ever get any maple species to root from cuttings...
 
Some JM cultivars simply will not root by any means which is why the only way to reproduce them is via grafting. Using the right percentage of IBA can help harder to root cultivars. This link I added should help with what percentage to be used.

https://hormex.com/pages/hormex-rooting-powder-strength-plant-list
 
I have also rooted cuttings with just two buds. However if you don't provide an optimum environment you risk the chance that the cutting will desiccate. A cutting with only two buds has no room for error. You loose those buds you loose the cutting. If you try using a cutting with say 4 or 6 buds you can risk loosing the upper most buds as you have back up buds below. I personally do not like doing hardwood cuttings on JM. I prefer air layerings and cuttings that have harden off after the first flush. Air layering current years growth can save you months if not at least a year of growing time from seed.
 
Am I the only who thinks it maybe a little odd to write a compilation of information if you have not managed the process yourself? How do you know what is the right information?
 
Am I the only who thinks it maybe a little odd to write a compilation of information if you have not managed the process yourself? How do you know what is the right information?
It seems a lot of people preach that here on BNut. I did think it was odd that the OP posted information on a process that he/she has not yet been successful doing.
 
That's why its an experiment. Failure is always an option.

I will be placing hardwood cuttings in 4 different media (sphagnum, sand, akadama, and perlite) and later in the spring I will be taking semi-hardwood cuttings and calculating a yield in each medium. The methods I'm using are the most commonly cited methods compiled on this site and others.
 

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Sounds like a good plan. I’m attempting rooting cuttings from an Acer Compestre, Field Maple, this year. I’m not sure of my timing yet though.
 
Has anyone heard of or tried forcing etiolation to encourage cuttings to root
I have heard of it, and it's very interesting especially for us nuts that are into obscure propagating techniques. This could be useful for us to try to root species that are reluctant to root.

Look into 'banding.' It's a similar technique using etiolation, but it uses opaque bands around the stems instead of bags.
 
I use a white plastic over hoops placed in shade. Hardened off new growth. 100 % perlite. Mist about 3-5 times per day. Hormone is 10,000 ppm IBA-k 5000 ppm naa quick dip. Use razor for cutting bottoms for nice clean cut. Use fungicide if necessary. Had very good results even with weeping dissectums. Getting them through 1st winter is another challenge for some. My climate is mild so its not that hard.
 
I'd just like to update this thread. None of the cuttings made it. NONE. I air layered 2 branches off my maple which grew wonderful roots. And died the next spring....
 
Getting new growth through the winter can be chancy at best. I use a cold frame to give these an edge.

I’m not sure what the issue is. I have gotten maple cuttings to root with azalea cuttings in domed nursery trays... they toss these 4-6” roots down the bottom of the tray. Used 50:50 peat:small perlite

Also in a one gallon nursery bucket with three dowel rods stuck straight up and a plastic grocery bag over the top.... it eventually blew away and I was too lazy to find it. 😉. I even watered whenever I felt like it when I was watering the big bench.... did it with Ginkgo last year also. Used plain olde potting soil. Here’s a photo....

cheers
DSD sends

image.jpg
 
Gee Pittoon!

Soon we are going to call you the “Pitoon Maple Air layer service“. 😎

Nicely done btw!
DSD sends
 
Hey, beginner here, I was going to attempt this and stumbled on your thread. If you don’t mind, I’ll hijack it to post my own experiment. The JM I’ll use grew foliage just last week, so it will be a little while before I can get started, but I’ll be happy to share details once I do.
 
I have had success growing from clippings with Shin Deshojo, Arakawa and Shishigashira.
I do have a green house where I keep them even during the summer.
 
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