Koto Hime Maple Progression

Apex37

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As far as JM's go, Koto are pretty sun-tolerant. I'm so far north of you, I get away with nearly the entire day in full sun for most of the year. Hottest time of the year I move it to shade by 11, 11:30......

Texas? Probably get some shade by eleven! Pretty thirsty, even for a JM...keep it hydrated.

@Apex37 , if it doesn't work out at first, it seems "someone" is crankin' out lot's of Koto material!!;):D:D:D:D:D
i have them in full sun from sun up till a couple hours past high noon when they start getting shade from the big trees in the yard west of my tables. they also get full wind all day. it's hitting 70 during the day, so I'm watering everyday already.
Thanks guys! Yeah it has already got up to 90 here this weekend. Today is a high of 87 and then thankfully looks like a cooler rest of the week and into next week. I'm not ready for summer heat this early.
 

Darth Masiah

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repotting a 3 1/2 year old. i might've cut my main trunk line back a little too hard. i was going to have to make the cut eventually because of the reverse taper that was going to form a couple nodes up the branch, though. only cut a few shoots off the sacrifice that were about to grow over the main tree site below. im leaving it to continue to thicken the trunk. koto will easily heal a half inch diameter scar so i have some time before i need to think about cutting it off. the difference in taper between the nebari, lower, and middle trunk sections looks to be coming along nicely. i have to try to balance growth in the different areas so we wont lose that asthetic as we're building the trunk line. since it's been two years since a repot and these guys are all in great health, i went pretty hard and eliminated almost everything i didn't like about the nebari and set it on a path that would appeal to my personal taste; not so flat roots are going verticle, not so steep you think exposed root pine, just a slopi balance, taper, and ramification. not a big fan of the pancake, so i don't want the roots to get too big and fuse together. im thinking a colander will encourage root bifurcation at the root ends and slow down the thickening of the base of the root connected to the trunk. exposing these roots that are close to the trunk to the air and wind should also speed up the lignification process, which i think also works against the roots fusing easily.

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mame could be fun with these guys.
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cmeg1

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repotting a 3 1/2 year old. i might've cut my main trunk line back a little too hard. i was going to have to make the cut eventually because of the reverse taper that was going to form a couple nodes up the branch, though. only cut a few shoots off the sacrifice that were about to grow over the main tree site below. im leaving it to continue to thicken the trunk. koto will easily heal a half inch diameter scar so i have some time before i need to think about cutting it off. the difference in taper between the nebari, lower, and middle trunk sections looks to be coming along nicely. i have to try to balance growth in the different areas so we wont lose that asthetic as we're building the trunk line. since it's been two years since a repot and these guys are all in great health, i went pretty hard and eliminated almost everything i didn't like about the nebari and set it on a path that would appeal to my personal taste; not so flat roots are going verticle, not so steep you think exposed root pine, just a slopi balance, taper, and ramification. not a big fan of the pancake, so i don't want the roots to get too big and fuse together. im thinking a colander will encourage root bifurcation at the root ends and slow down the thickening of the base of the root connected to the trunk. exposing these roots that are close to the trunk to the air and wind should also speed up the lignification process, which i think also works against the roots fusing easily.

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mame could be fun with these guys.
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Very nice getting ready to get some primaries on there very nice trunk will be a nice Koto Hime
 

0soyoung

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Darth Masiah

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What time of year do you take cuttings?
ive had success taking cuttings of first year shoots after they've extended around 5+ inches, late spring/early summer when temps start averaging 80/60 day/night. i razor cut below/through a node and dip in clonex. let the clonex start to dry on the ends a little and pot up in your favorite well draining, moisture retentive substrate. keep in the shade and keep the humidity up till you see strong new growth. i was experimenting this year taking cuttings in late winter (feb) right before the buds started opening. im using a coco/perlite substrate. no dome. no shade. they have a lot more leaves now than in post #95.
 
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