King Korean Hornbeam No.2

I don't quite understand the strategy to leaving so many branches this season. As I see this tree, there's a lot of growth in oddball directions that don't contribute to a design I'd expect. A season of letting those grow will leave a lot more scars to heal, which hornbeam isn't great at. A significant number of the extra growth is in the apex, which could start to either develop knobs or reduce the taper of the tree. I'm sure there's a method to the madness but I'm missing it
 
Wood said:
I don't quite understand the strategy to leaving so many branches this season. As I see this tree, there's a lot of growth in oddball directions that don't contribute to a design I'd expect. A season of letting those grow will leave a lot more scars to heal, which hornbeam isn't great at. A significant number of the extra growth is in the apex, which could start to either develop knobs or reduce the taper of the tree. I'm sure there's a method to the madness but I'm missing it
Click to expand...
I have to make a lot of cuts but I’m leaving that one big one in tack to grow the base.. and a lot of branches I am
Growing out before I cut back but I’m def going to cut soon thanks for that call out
 
I totally understand the use of sacrifice branches. The ones on the lowest branch make perfect sense to me and are definitely important.

Shogun610 said:
a lot of branches I am Growing out before I cut back
Click to expand...

My impression was that these types of operations were more successful if you allowed only one leader from each branch to extend, then cut it back hard. Not quite sure of your goal either, because American hornbeam don't struggle to backbud to begin with

I circled some of the branches that seemed really problematic to me. It's strongly upward or downward, longer than is useful, and already has some type of prune.

1742339879611.png

What really stands out to me is that I rarely see a pro leave a tree like this at the beginning of a growing season. Almost everything, including trees that need scars healed, heavy growing out, etc, are usually pruned back to stubs, with a couple leaders left long and that's it
 
Wood said:
I totally understand the use of sacrifice branches. The ones on the lowest branch make perfect sense to me and are definitely important.



My impression was that these types of operations were more successful if you allowed only one leader from each branch to extend, then cut it back hard. Not quite sure of your goal either, because American hornbeam don't struggle to backbud to begin with

I circled some of the branches that seemed really problematic to me. It's strongly upward or downward, longer than is useful, and already has some type of prune.

View attachment 587765

What really stands out to me is that I rarely see a pro leave a tree like this at the beginning of a growing season. Almost everything, including trees that need scars healed, heavy growing out, etc, are usually pruned back to stubs, with a couple leaders left long and that's it
Click to expand...
Yeah I was gonna repot then cut back I should have out that somewhere … and yes I will wire or use guy wire . Gimme a day or so I also want to leave some back branches or lower branches longer too to thicken up
 
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I like where it’s headed! I’d probably be more inclined to use a more shallow grow box rather than a terra cotta pot for a deciduous tree in development. Just an idea. I do like terra cotta pots for conifers.

Anyway, I think it’s a great looking tree in development. Obviously you have to prune and wire at some point, but I totally get waiting for the tree to recover from repotting and waiting until it’s really strong. I’ve got one right now that needs to be wired but I feel like it’s just not ready yet. Nice thing with deciduous is that you can always cut it back.
 
Colorado said:
I like where it’s headed! I’d probably be more inclined to use a more shallow grow box rather than a terra cotta pot for a deciduous tree in development. Just an idea. I do like terra cotta pots for conifers.

Anyway, I think it’s a great looking tree in development. Obviously you have to prune and wire at some point, but I totally get waiting for the tree to recover from repotting and waiting until it’s really strong. I’ve got one right now that needs to be wired but I feel like it’s just not ready yet. Nice thing with deciduous is that you can always cut it back.
Click to expand...
Thanks yeah I contemplated a grow box .. maybe will but I think for this year it should be ok in the pot .. I am pruning I don’t want too much energy to go into every twig so I think it may make sense to prune now
 
Shogun610 said:
Yeah I was gonna repot then cut back I should have out that somewhere … and yes I will wire or use guy wire
Click to expand...

Ah gotcha! For some reason I thought this tree was completely prepped for the growing season. Sorry for raking you over the coals
 
Colorado said:
I like where it’s headed! I’d probably be more inclined to use a more shallow grow box rather than a terra cotta pot for a deciduous tree in development. Just an idea. I do like terra cotta pots for conifers.

Anyway, I think it’s a great looking tree in development. Obviously you have to prune and wire at some point, but I totally get waiting for the tree to recover from repotting and waiting until it’s really strong. I’ve got one right now that needs to be wired but I feel like it’s just not ready yet. Nice thing with deciduous is that you can always cut it back.
Click to expand...
Damn I’m ruminating over the box suggestion hmm It did cross my mind too before…
 
Shogun610 said:
Damn I’m ruminating over the box suggestion hmm It did cross my mind too before…
Click to expand...
An Anderson flat would work just as well. Nice material. Hornbeams are definitely one of my favorite deciduous bonsai material. I lucked into a developed one at a club auction last year that i wouldn't even contemplate getting rid of. Look forward to seeing this one develop. Julian did well with it for sure. Got to sit down for lunch with him last year, hope to get to chat with him again in the future, his knowledge of pines is amazing.
 
The Barber said:
An Anderson flat would work just as well. Nice material. Hornbeams are definitely one of my favorite deciduous bonsai material. I lucked into a developed one at a club auction last year that i wouldn't even contemplate getting rid of. Look forward to seeing this one develop. Julian did well with it for sure. Got to sit down for lunch with him last year, hope to get to chat with him again in the future, his knowledge of pines is amazing.
Click to expand...
I don’t like Anderson flats for this stage this has been in my care for 2 years and I cut off a lot of verticals roots I’m trying to get kore radial roots but otherwise flats do work well it’s just they are more for bulking this is winding down the bulk minus the sacrifice at bottom
 
I'm totally with all the suggestions for a wider pot, Seems like you are just trading the nursery pot for a slightly smaller terra cotta. You can find reasonably priced larger ceramic pots on several auctions, ebay and other online vendors, that will give you a nicer look which I think contributes to your eye as you develop this tree. I find it helps to see the tree Im working on in a real pot as it helps with context. And be careful if you move it and then want to wire, all the new roots will be disturbed if you wire after the little roots start up. So if you move it wire it right away. This is a nice start on a hornbeam, I had missed the beginning of the thread.
 
JudyB said:
I'm totally with all the suggestions for a wider pot, Seems like you are just trading the nursery pot for a slightly smaller terra cotta. You can find reasonably priced larger ceramic pots on several auctions, ebay and other online vendors, that will give you a nicer look which I think contributes to your eye as you develop this tree. I find it helps to see the tree Im working on in a real pot as it helps with context. And be careful if you move it and then want to wire, all the new roots will be disturbed if you wire after the little roots start up. So if you move it wire it right away. This is a nice start on a hornbeam, I had missed the beginning of the thread.
Click to expand...
I’m either keep the container this year or go to wooden box.. the container is 11” diameter it is a big tree
 
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