Kanorin
Omono
Good, because the other trunk is in the yard waste bag!
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Kanorin's "Azalea 2020-2025" entry
- Thread starter Kanorin
- Start date
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Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
- Messages
- 11,476
- Reaction score
- 23,792
- USDA Zone
- 5b
Looking good. Do you have a preference for future styling? Upright? Or do you want to try a semi cascade? Or even a full cascade?
Upright or semi-cascade are both easier to do than a full cascade.
Where you have a cluster of branches at any given point, one of the outside branches will be the keeper, not an inside branch.
Upright or semi-cascade are both easier to do than a full cascade.
Where you have a cluster of branches at any given point, one of the outside branches will be the keeper, not an inside branch.
Kanorin
Omono
Since this is a creeping variety and it seems to want to throw branches arcing downward, I'd like to go for a semi or full cascade. Do I have to make that distinction this spring or can I go for full cascade in spring 2021 and pivot to semi-cascade in say 2023 if it's not working out?
The answer to this question might help also help me decide:
Are there ways to overwinter a cascade without a green house? Last year I buried my pots in the ground and put 2 inches of mulch over them since it will touch near 0 degrees F a few times each winter here. I'm guessing you can't really bury a cascading plant in the same way. I do have a detached, unheated brick garage, but I'm not sure if that will stay warm enough.
I am only 30 or so miles from St.Louis. I overwinter things in my unheated, detached garage in a styrofoam cooler, as advised by @Leo in N E Illinois.
Leo in N E Illinois
The Professor
- Messages
- 11,476
- Reaction score
- 23,792
- USDA Zone
- 5b
It is easy to switch from full cascade to semi-cascade, just snip off part of the decending branch. Takes time to go from semi cascade to full cascade.
Actually, either way it is a design change, it will take planning and wire.
Your brick garage sounds perfect for wintering azalea, discuss with @Carol 83 how she does it.
Actually, either way it is a design change, it will take planning and wire.
Your brick garage sounds perfect for wintering azalea, discuss with @Carol 83 how she does it.
Kanorin
Omono
I've got a crazy idea. Actually, I've got a lot of crazy ideas...but this one might just be crazy enough to work.
I think I'm gonna let the drama build for a little bit and not give up my secret plan too soon. I think it's within the rules of this competition...I'll need to double check.
I think I'm gonna let the drama build for a little bit and not give up my secret plan too soon. I think it's within the rules of this competition...I'll need to double check.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Hi @Kanorin, If you haven’t had a chance to yet, please to fill out the azalea media (substrate) poll.
My thanks and please disregard this note if you’ve already polled.
Cheers!
DSD sends
My thanks and please disregard this note if you’ve already polled.
Cheers!
DSD sends
Kanorin
Omono
Made some virts from two possible fronts!
Front A
Front B
Which of these do people like?
Front A
Front B
Which of these do people like?
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Personally I like B2 or B3.
Cheers
DSD sends
Cheers
DSD sends
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
Forcing a cascade out of un-cascade-like material is a bridge too far that never works out right. Accentuate the positive, eliminate the negative, latch on to the affimative, don't mess with Mr. In-between. (Yes, it has been said before.)
Kanorin
Omono
Thanks for the comment, although I'll note that it is not super helpful to a beginner. What are the main elements that a tree should possess that make it cascade-like material?
Or what do you see as the positives in this tree that you would accentuate?
This azalea does throw branches down below the soil line all over the place. I've already removed some of the super straight ones that were terminating 6-8 inches below the soil line.
What else are you looking for to want to style a tree as a cascade?
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
I'll go on the record to say that @Forsoothe! was actually trying to be helpful. Knowing your growth characteristics in key.
However in this case you have a Joseph Hill North Tisbury azalea which is supposed to get 1' in height and 5' in width in 10 years. I'd expect that you can get a decent semi or cascade out of it. It is growing very fast for its type though and is throwing off large nodes too.... (hopefully that can be addressed in the next 4 years with potting and pruning.... unless it was misnamed...?)
I might continue to grow Joesph out through this fall to gain as much strength as possible. Then wait to chop everything you don't need until this winter, but before the azalea starts budding and wasting energy on branches you don't need.
If I may ask, how are you planning on over wintering this azalea? And when are you planning on potting?
cheers
DSD sends
Ch
Harunobu
Chumono
Many R.nakaharae hybrids will cascade out of hanging baskets. Pretty sure Joseph hill will grow horizontally along the soil line, then layer branches. Many of my 25% nakaharae seedlings do this. If you put it in a cascade pot, the branches will naturally cascade down out of the pot. They don't grow very fast, so the question is how far down your cascade will grow in 5 years and now nicely ramified you can get it because you mad need some pruning for better ramification.
I actually couldn't find a nice picture of a nakaharae hybrid actually cascading down a hanging basket.
This one is the best one I could find. Not really that good:
I am not sure if you can actually get them to cascade down like 1 or even 2 meters from a hanging basket. You think one would be able to, given enough time.
JARS v40n1 - A Basket Case
scholar.lib.vt.edu
I actually couldn't find a nice picture of a nakaharae hybrid actually cascading down a hanging basket.
This one is the best one I could find. Not really that good:
I am not sure if you can actually get them to cascade down like 1 or even 2 meters from a hanging basket. You think one would be able to, given enough time.
bunjin
Mame
Have you considered a windswept style, which is uncommon for azaleas, but could work for your specimen as bending those branches is going to be difficult at best? Yes, you can use some newer shoots to make a cascade, but you would be not be using the assets of the material you have. Cascade trunks descend at about 45 degrees and the apex will below the bottom of the pot; semi-cascades descend much less. There may be crown or maybe not. Probably best to study some examples as there are a lot of variations. A lot of other details are important, but not at this early stage of development. Bear in mind that the shape of the trunk coming out of the container is very critical when there is no crown. I also think that moyogi style, really the default for most azaleas, is still possible.
Forsoothe!
Imperial Masterpiece
If you do not have at least one branch that can be wired into a cascade to begin with, then you are starting with less than zero. One skinny branch that can follow a path from a point close enough to the crown of the plant for a logical design is the minimum requirement. In a cascade, the major branch is the cascade and only the trunk below (before) it may be a larger diameter. The counterbalance branch, if one is used in the design is also smaller than the cascade. I do not see such a starting point. The loop diameter necessary to transpose any existing wood would be too large and/or ungraceful to be believable. To say that you can grow one because the variety has a habit that accommodates cascade branches is specious. If you are starting from zero, you could grow a cascade from a Ginkgo. My comments are to inform the thinking of the OP, et al as to what is useful thinking verses unproductive wishing. Want a cascade? Go buy a good candidate. Want to make something nice with what you have? Accentuate the positive, etc.
Kanorin
Omono
I have two overwintering options: 1) An unheated, detached brick garage, and 2) A 2.5 ft high by 6 ft wide crawl space underneath the sun room addition on my house. I'd be willing to bet that the crawl space stays at least 5-10 degrees warmer than the outside air temperature in winter and it is super wind-sheltered.
I feel like the question on when to chop and when to pot are related, so I've regrouped your comments.
Here's what I'm thinking as far as chopping and potting. Somebody let me know if you think it's too aggressive or might be off in timing by a bit.
Early February: Chop branches
Early March, or whenever the buds begin to swell: Reduce the rootmass by half and pot in 85% kanuma, 15% pine bark (It is currently growing really well in what looks to be a mix of peat, sand, and pine bark)
Kanorin
Omono
Thanks for fleshing out your comment!
Kanorin
Omono
I feel like my plant can achieve something along the lines of this semi over the next 4.5 years.
Kanorin
Omono
Will it be ok to overwinter the azalea in a spot with very very little light?
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
There’s a member here @Leo in N E Illinois that overwinters in a well house with little light.
The key issues and perhaps more important than light is ventilation and lowest temperatures.
IMHO Light is good, but ventilation, or moving air is really important. You need moving air. A small electronic type box fan would do fine. Just position a bit away from the plant so there is moving air, yet not direct.
Just as key is lowest temps. A Tradition azalea is a Kurume, which is tougher than most Satsuki and I believe yours is rated for zone 6b, so you have a bit of an advantage there. So if the area you choose is normally above 5F you should be good. Above 45F for an extended time, not so good.
if I recall you have the choice of a crawl space or an unheated garage. Which will you have easy access to check on moisture levels and still fit the bill?
cheers
DSD sends
The key issues and perhaps more important than light is ventilation and lowest temperatures.
IMHO Light is good, but ventilation, or moving air is really important. You need moving air. A small electronic type box fan would do fine. Just position a bit away from the plant so there is moving air, yet not direct.
Just as key is lowest temps. A Tradition azalea is a Kurume, which is tougher than most Satsuki and I believe yours is rated for zone 6b, so you have a bit of an advantage there. So if the area you choose is normally above 5F you should be good. Above 45F for an extended time, not so good.
if I recall you have the choice of a crawl space or an unheated garage. Which will you have easy access to check on moisture levels and still fit the bill?
cheers
DSD sends
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