JPB development

[parhamr]

If you’re trying to improve primary/secondary branch structure, decandling isn’t as effective as good pruning in early spring back to proximal shoots, letting it grow all summer, and pruning it again in the fall, selecting evenly-sized buds and branches, and keeping growth in close to the trunk.

That makes sense! Thanks for the input; I’ll keep it in mind.

This puts your summer candle-cutting at around 7/12, and you could probably hedge toward earlier if your late summers are really rainy/cloudy

I appreciate the details. I’ve heard this is about the right time for decandling in the PNW, so I decided to see what I get out of the earliest part of the window. Future years will be adjusted from these findings. We’ve had a mild spring and I’m expecting a lot of 90-degree days in August.

Late May/early June seems like the about right time of year in the PNW - that’s when I recall doing it when I lived there.

Great!

Also, are you doing the “one day decandling”? Or the “10 day” method?

One day. On the lower branches where I left candles, those are escape branches to keep traffic moving past some desirable inner buds that are not yet strong enough to take over.

 

[River's Edge]

That makes sense! Thanks for the input; I’ll keep it in mind.


I appreciate the details. I’ve heard this is about the right time for decandling in the PNW, so I decided to see what I get out of the earliest part of the window. Future years will be adjusted from these findings. We’ve had a mild spring and I’m expecting a lot of 90-degree days in August.


Great!


One day. On the lower branches where I left candles, those are escape branches to keep traffic moving past some desirable inner buds that are not yet strong enough to take over.

We have had a bit later spring this year and i will be decandling mid June to end of June this year. I judge it on the timing for the new needles to stand out away from the spring candles. We have had explosive growth this spring but the needles are still relatively in close to the new candles.

 

[parhamr]

Here’s the apical candle on April 5.




Today it’s at around 14" and the needles are all about 2–3" long.

I decandled the strong buds on this tree June 1st.

 

[vancehanna]

FULL SUN!! Watch your watering.....don't water if it is not drying out in one day.....make certain it is dry. Pines love to be dry and hot...then watered! ( Especially JBP)

 

[River's Edge]

Here’s the apical candle on April 5.

View attachment 246398


Today it’s at around 14" and the needles are all about 2–3" long.

I decandled the strong buds on this tree June 1st.

The Pacific Northwest has experienced a warmer spell earlier on this year and the pines are responding very well. It is going to be a great year for creating lower branching if desired by cut back and selective decandling. Similar conditions on vancouver island this spring! I can hear the trunks thickening

 

[parhamr]

The terminal node is producing two cones!

 

[parhamr]

This is why early June is candle pruning season. Here are the new buds about 42 days later.

 

[Adair M]

This is why early June is candle pruning season. Here are the new buds about 42 days later.

Well, you’ll have to wait and see how long the internodes and needles are at the end of the season. Then you’ll know how your timing was.

 

[parhamr]

here we are today with 3–4" nodes and 1–2" needles


the residue is from a Daconil equivalent

 

[AndyJ]

What made you decide to decandle your JBP now? If you’re trying to improve primary/secondary branch structure, decandling isn’t as effective as good pruning in early spring back to proximal shoots, letting it grow all summer, and pruning it again in the fall, selecting evenly-sized buds and branches, and keeping growth in close to the trunk.

Parhamr - hope you don’t mind me jumpi g on your thread?

Brian - I’m fairly new to bonsai and am still finding my way. Please can you explain what you mean above? Particularly what you mean by ”pruning in early spring back to proximal shoots” - I wonder if this is something I should be doing with my JBP?

Many thanks,

Andy

 

[parhamr]

Parhamr - hope you don’t mind me jumpi g on your thread?

Brian - I’m fairly new to bonsai and am still finding my way. Please can you explain what you mean above? Particularly what you mean by ”pruning in early spring back to proximal shoots” - I wonder if this is something I should be doing with my JBP?

Many thanks,

Andy

No problem! Take a look at this — https://bonsaitonight.com/2018/08/17/stimulating-back-buds-on-japanese-black-pine/

That’s a great blog. Peruse it as you wish.

 

[just.wing.it]

here we are today with 3–4" nodes and 1–2" needles
View attachment 264191

the residue is from a Daconil equivalent

Looking good there!
Did you remove the cones?

 

[parhamr]

Looking good there!
Did you remove the cones?

Yes. I removed the cones some time in June.

 

[AndyJ]

No problem! Take a look at this — https://bonsaitonight.com/2018/08/17/stimulating-back-buds-on-japanese-black-pine/

That’s a great blog. Peruse it as you wish.

Thanks Pal!

 

[parhamr]

I plucked some of the old needles last night


I think that escape branch has done its duties and needs to be replaced by a branch originating lower on the trunk.

Now that I’ve seen the inner structure of branches, it seems this is a good chance to adjust some of their positions. I suppose wire should come next.

I may repot this, late winter, in a more suitable pot. It also needs a big correction of the planting angle.

 

[Adair M]

If you want to remove the sacrifice, now is a good time.

 

[MrWunderful]

If you want to remove the sacrifice, now is a good time.

How do you feel about removing sacrifice branches in stages on pines? I have a jbp that has a larger sacrifice branch That I am thinking about either removing, or cutting back to a shoot and pulling needles (I live in SF)

(sorry to hijack OP, felt it was relevant)

 

[markyscott]

I plucked some of the old needles last night
View attachment 266658

I think that escape branch has done its duties and needs to be replaced by a branch originating lower on the trunk.

Now that I’ve seen the inner structure of branches, it seems this is a good chance to adjust some of their positions. I suppose wire should come next.

I may repot this, late winter, in a more suitable pot. It also needs a big correction of the planting angle.

nice job - health has improved significantly since the first post.
s

 

[Adair M]

How do you feel about removing sacrifice branches in stages on pines? I have a jbp that has a larger sacrifice branch That I am thinking about either removing, or cutting back to a shoot and pulling needles (I live in SF)

(sorry to hijack OP, felt it was relevant)

I suppose you can if you think there is some benefit in doing so. It delays the healing of the scar where the sacrifice will be cut.

There is a technique, however, that can help promote the healing process. It’s one of Mr Ebihara’s techniques. Right where the trunk meets the sacrifice, take a chunk off the top of the sacrifice branch. Maybe half way through. Apply cut paste along the trunk where you removed the chunk. Next year, remove half of what’s left. (In the chunk section). Finally, in the third year, remove the branch. During the time you’ve been removing “chunks” of the base of the sacrifice branch, the portion above, along the trunk, should have been healing. The idea is the wound above the branch is starting to close over by the time the branch is completely removed.

 

[River's Edge]

How do you feel about removing sacrifice branches in stages on pines? I have a jbp that has a larger sacrifice branch That I am thinking about either removing, or cutting back to a shoot and pulling needles (I live in SF)

(sorry to hijack OP, felt it was relevant)

Too often a question is asked and answered in a general context.
There are several reasons why it may make sense to remove a sacrifice branch in stages. In development stages the removal of an apical sacrifice branch will often be done in stages for one of the following reasons.
1. Multiple opportunities to encourage bud back below the removed portion. Gaining additional lower branching for development! ( each time you remove a portion it triggers a response)
2. Balancing the foliage to ensure remaining vigor in the tree! taking too much off at once can place undue stress on the tree, weakening it or possibly killing the tree. If there is weaker foliage below then the tree is set back by the removal of too much strong foliage above. Slower development.
3. Starting lower branching with bud back and then continuing growth of the apical leader until trunk size is adequate! Important developmental sequence to avoid grafting branches later! Often done in year two or three of development, then grown out to year seven or eight until the trunk is well over 3 inch diameter. ( pines in particular)