ForrestGump
Mame
Ok thanks man. I'm going to debate it while I watch the weather lol
Japenese maple chop
- Thread starter ForrestGump
- Start date
M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
Then do it. Cut off the cultivar and toss it. I would.
ForrestGump
Mame
OK lol. Is now a good time?
M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
Isn't this a more desirable tree though?
Bonsai Nut
Nuttier than your average Nut
Everyone has an opinion
In my case, I am more interested in interesting Japanese Maple cultivars than growing out Japanese Maple root stock, but that is strictly my opinion. You can buy a 10 gallon green Japanese Maple for $30, while the same tree as a popular cultivar could be $200 or more. I could go out into my backyard right now and trunk chop any number of citrus or stone fruit trees and end up with a healthy root stock tree that doesn't flower or fruit. Some of them might make interesting bonsai, but since I bought the trees for the cultivar (the type of citrus or peach) it isn't my priority to care about the root stock other than that it is strong and healthy.The reason why I gave Mike's comment a "like" is that if you want to chop a tree and don't care about the cultivar - chop away! There have been plenty of times that I have been pruning trees and thought "you know - I really should air-layer off this top because it would make a nice shohin" and then I grab the loppers. There are only so many hours in a day and so many days in a year. If you get too distracted with too many long-term projects, you find yourself not moving forward.
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ForrestGump
Mame
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
Acer palmatums take a long time to generate new buds - 6 to 8 weeks in my climate. As long as the epiderm is green, there is hope. It will change to blackish-brown when it dies. Meanwhile, keep an eye out for some little red dots (buds) on those grey-ish rings (nodes)
ForrestGump
Mame
Ok great thanks!
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
Is the cut sealed?
ForrestGump
Mame
I don't agree with sealing.
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
Why not?....if I may pry....?
ForrestGump
Mame
I think it creates a better environment for infection. I believe trees should be able to heal themselves, as they do in the wild. I've read opinions on both sides of the spectrum. Based on my experience with wounds I don't think it's necessary. If I'd had problems with dieback I would be more apt to try a sealant.
ForrestGump
Mame
https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/1993/3-24-1993/prune.html
This article talks about the use of sealant.
This article talks about the use of sealant.
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
I appreciate that, thanks!
ForrestGump
Mame
No problem! Not sure if I'm right lol...it just made sense after reading into it.
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
No no... I get it, and I agree...but I still seal to prevent dieback...and actually I don't seal every tree, but most.
music~maker
Shohin
The thing you have to realize is that wounds don't behave exactly the same at a miniature scale as they do on full-size trees. The surface area of the wound on a full scale tree is massively bigger, and an infection is far, far more likely in that case.
But forget about theory - I've done lots of actual experiments with this. For maples especially, I've noticed that with larger cuts, they seem far more likely to die back if they aren't sealed in some way. I'll go one step further - they heal differently depending on whether you use the clay-type paste or the latex-type paste. The clay promotes a nice rolling callous, and the latex seems to almost act as a surrogate bark and for larger cuts, healing takes longer but die back is largely eliminated.
These days, I use the clay type for larger cuts, and the latex for smaller cuts if I feel the need to use it on them. For routine maintenance pruning, I don't use it at all.
Here's an example from a bloodgood maple that is fairly representative of my experiences as a whole.
I've been using cut paste for decades, and I've never had an issue from using it - only seen differences in how the tree healed with it and without it.
It's species specific - I don't typically use cut paste on conifers, but I find it indispensible for deciduous trees.
just.wing.it
Deadwood Head
Awesome
0soyoung
Imperial Masterpiece
I agree with you,
HOWEVER,
exposed cambium will desiccate and die back. At this time of year, a. palmatum die back will, almost certainly, be no farther than to the next node. On the scale of forest/landscape trees this is 'unnoticeable'. In bonsai, though, it can be quite significant. All that is necessary for bonsai is to cover the cambium (that thin line of green between the bark and wood) in some way for about 10 days. A new epiderm forms making any other covering (cut paste, polyethylene wrap, or what not) completely unnecessary. If one has properly sanitized their cutting tools beforehand, there shouldn't be any fungal issue resulting from temporarily covering the wound. However, one could spray the wound with a peroxide solution (2 tablespoons 3% hydrogen peroxide from the grocery/pharmacy store in a quart of water) before covering it. Hydrogen peroxide is an effective antiseptic (antibacterial as well as antifungal).
