Japanese maple forest in autumn color

WOW! That is picture perfect! You should be very proud of that! ;)
 
Man its beautiful, I like the pot too. The color of the pot and the pattern on it looks like a forest floor, gives a sense of a natural scene. Great job.

ed

Thanks Ed! Perhaps I may get convinced that this pot is not so bad after all! :rolleyes:

Beautiful color! Hope you will post more photos as you add the other trees and decide on a different pot.

Thanks Ron! Yes I will try and keep updating this thread.

WOW! That is picture perfect! You should be very proud of that! ;)


Thanks GrimLore! This year this forest did hold up very nicely through the worst of Summer without missing a beat.
 
Here it is in the "wild"! :D


JAPANESEMAPLEFORESTAUTUMN2012a.jpg




And now almost all its leaves are shed.

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JAPANESEMAPLEFORESTAUTUMN2012LEAVESDROPPINGCLOSEUP.jpg




JAPANESEMAPLEFORESTAUTUMN2012LEAVESDROPPINGCLOSEUPA.jpg
 
Absolutely beautiful. Just think about the contrast between the leaves and the bark in a couple decades!
 
Great looking structure!
The composition is quite pleasing as well.

Thank you Ray! Come Spring time, I plan on pruning and wire some branches to redirect them and give them some more movement. The addition of a few more very small trees to enhance the perspective is in the works.

Absolutely beautiful. Just think about the contrast between the leaves and the bark in a couple decades!

Thanks Alex! Yes I can't wait!! In the mean time, I plan on spraying the trees with a mild lime sulphur solution in order to whiten up the trunks. I believe this is a relatively common practice in Japan. The other great benefit to doing so, is that it also acts as an insecticide and fungicide during their dormant period.
 
In the mean time, I plan on spraying the trees with a mild lime sulphur solution in order to whiten up the trunks. I believe this is a relatively common practice in Japan. The other great benefit to doing so, is that it also acts as an insecticide and fungicide during their dormant period.

I apply LS each winter as they're going into winter quarters as well... At a rate of 1/8 c per gallon, and making a half-hearted attempt to cover the pots.
 
I wasn't even aware of such a practice -- very interesting stuff! Should one use caution while spraying near the roots? Is LS harmful if the roots absorb it?
 
I wasn't even aware of such a practice -- very interesting stuff! Should one use caution while spraying near the roots? Is LS harmful if the roots absorb it?

Nah, doesn't hurt the roots or anything, but it will put a white film on pots that has to be scrubbed off...easier to just lay some newspapers on the soil as you spray the trees.
 
Ahhh, good advice. I hadn't thought about staining the pot. Now when I have trees worthy of such treatment I shall use this technique. ;)

Thanks guys!
 
Yes a few other people have had the same issue. I think mostly it has to do with the way they were downloaded from photobucket. I just tried with my IPad as well and have same problem. Photobucket just switch to a new and improved site and wonder if something was going on with their site at that time as they were changing over?? I've always done it that way with no problems so not sure. To make matters even more confusing some folks are able to view it just fine while others not so much :(
 
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Hi, I've been a member here for awhile but haven't posted much since I actually haven't "dived in" to doing my own Bonsai yet :(.

Bonsai Maples in fall, to me, are some of the most beautiful things ever, and these are an incredible example. Very nice trees you have there.

How mature were these when you got them in '99? I'm curious about the process you went though to get them to this point.
 
Hi, I've been a member here for awhile but haven't posted much since I actually haven't "dived in" to doing my own Bonsai yet :(.

Bonsai Maples in fall, to me, are some of the most beautiful things ever, and these are an incredible example. Very nice trees you have there.

How mature were these when you got them in '99? I'm curious about the process you went though to get them to this point.



Thank you miniaturizer! Back in '99 these trees were about the same size as they are now although they had much thinner trunks and very basic ramification. They looked immature at the time with mostly all green colored bark.

My general process for this forest has been the same as for any other bonsai: wire, prune, repot, fertilize, etc. All pretty standard. Through the years, I repositioned some of the trees, while others were removed and yet others were added. This composition has seen many variations of itself. Next March, I plan to add a few small trees in the back for a greater sense of depth and perspective.
 
Thank you miniaturizer! Back in '99 these trees were about the same size as they are now although they had much thinner trunks and very basic ramification. They looked immature at the time with mostly all green colored bark.

My general process for this forest has been the same as for any other bonsai: wire, prune, repot, fertilize, etc. All pretty standard. Through the years, I repositioned some of the trees, while others were removed and yet others were added. This composition has seen many variations of itself. Next March, I plan to add a few small trees in the back for a greater sense of depth and perspective.

So, do you tease them completely apart when you repot, or treat it as a single root mass, combing out the bottom and edges to replace the soil?

it really looks nice, and the trunks are well-positioned.
 
Mach5, you mentioned avoiding leaf burn while trying to get the bright red color. When I read that, I didn't understand. But now, my maples in the grow bed are displaying pretty good colors, but the one with the best red color...the leaves are burned. Would you please tell me how to avoid this and the relationship b/w color and scorched leaves?

Thanks!
 
So, do you tease them completely apart when you repot, or treat it as a single root mass, combing out the bottom and edges to replace the soil?

it really looks nice, and the trunks are well-positioned.


Thanks Brian! The last couple of repottings, I have treated it as one large, single root mass. I comb and cut roots alongside the perimeter as well as the bottom creating a very flat, shallow base. With that said, in past years as the forest was evolving, I would cut out some of the trees right out with a saw in order to reposition them as needed. At the right time, maples can take this sort of "abuse" as you well know.

Mach5, you mentioned avoiding leaf burn while trying to get the bright red color. When I read that, I didn't understand. But now, my maples in the grow bed are displaying pretty good colors, but the one with the best red color...the leaves are burned. Would you please tell me how to avoid this and the relationship b/w color and scorched leaves?

Thanks!

Fore,

Yes sorry for my lack of clarity :rolleyes: What I meant was that the best colors are displayed with perfect to near perfect leaves. Did not mean to imply that scorched leaves don't color up. Indeed they do, but the overall image is marred by the ugly brown, scorched edges. Also scorched areas don't color up, just the live parts of the leaf, leaving you with diminishing returns on your fall color.

Not getting burned leaves is exceedingly difficult in Japanese Maples. At least in my experience. One wrong move and there goes your perfect leaves. You must water, water and water while keeping your tree cool and out of the most intense light of the day. Ironically, my tress do get about a hour and a half of mid day sun, but are shaded the rest of the time. I am sure it is possible to keep them in full sunlight all day without any scorching but one must be prepared to be on top of them constantly I would guess!

My own practice is to give my maples sunlight in the early Spring. I start to shade them towards mid May all through September, at which time they go back out into full sunlight once again.
 
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