Japanese Beech Forest

Repotted this forest (now technically a clump) back into its original slab which I repaired recently. I am convinced this composition sits better on a slab than a pot. For me it evokes a more expansive landscape as opposed to the more visually constricting walls of a pot.

In case you're wondering, I used plastic mesh to help keep soil erosion in check until roots take hold.

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This is my favorite piece of yours, and one of your best works.
 
Beech forest tonight. The soil had gotten quite messy last year with fertilizer cakes, etc. So had to perform "soji" or cleaning of the top layer of the soil to aid water percolation and make it look nice and clean.

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Beech forest tonight. The soil had gotten quite messy last year with fertilizer cakes, etc. So had to perform "soji" or cleaning of the top layer of the soil to aid water percolation and make it look nice and clean.

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Exquisite Forest, wow. What is your method of fertilizer application?
 
Exquisite Forest, wow. What is your method of fertilizer application?

Very simple. BioGold cakes supplemented with some fish emulsion every so often. That's pretty much it.

What used to be single ones at one point, all the trees have now fused together forming one living system. It has become extremely challenging since the "system" now views the smaller trees as expendable favoring the stronger ones. I have to be very vigilant that those smaller trees remain healthy by aggressively restraining the vigor through pinching and cutting back where necessary the larger ones. A real challenge that will continue for the life of the bonsai.

I have noticed that by doing leaf cutting in June (cutting each leaf in half) the tree tends to produce quite a bit of back budding which is hardly an easy task with Japanese beech.
 
Very simple. BioGold cakes supplemented with some fish emulsion every so often. That's pretty much it.

What used to be single ones at one point, all the trees have now fused together forming one living system. It has become extremely challenging since the "system" now views the smaller trees as expendable favoring the stronger ones. I have to be very vigilant that those smaller trees remain healthy by aggressively restraining the vigor through pinching and cutting back where necessary the larger ones. A real challenge that will continue for the life of the bonsai.

I have noticed that by doing leaf cutting in June (cutting each leaf in half) the tree tends to produce quite a bit of back budding which is hardly an easy task with Japanese beech.
I have recently transitioned to B.O. from Japan and fish as the standard for all my trees.

Regarding the survival of smaller trees among the larger in the forest (now fused), are you giving attention evenly 50/50 to overall apical design while removing larger growth to accomplish the energy distribution? (is this the big picture way of looking at it?) How do you decide what to remove/keep?

Is this a similar concept as pruning away unsightly “suckers” growing off a trunk or branch, because they steal energy?

I have no forest, clump, etc. compositions but I am very attracted to them and would like to begin. The nursery I work at sells flagstone and irregular stone slabs (for land/hardscape projects), two of which I’ve set aside for potential use (a 1”drop in the center of each slab like small cliffs/shifts in the rock).
 
Looks amazing! I have a small forest that I really need to step up my game, sheesh - I'm slacking!
 
Beech forest tonight. The soil had gotten quite messy last year with fertilizer cakes, etc. So had to perform "soji" or cleaning of the top layer of the soil to aid water percolation and make it look nice and clean.

View attachment 538116
Great job Serg. You have way more patience than I do with all of the monitoring and care that you do on this group. I applaud you. Is the granite slab natural or man made? Very nice!
 
Regarding the survival of smaller trees among the larger in the forest (now fused), are you giving attention evenly 50/50 to overall apical design while removing larger growth to accomplish the energy distribution? (is this the big picture way of looking at it?) How do you decide what to remove/keep?

Is this a similar concept as pruning away unsightly “suckers” growing off a trunk or branch, because they steal energy?

Usually I pinch back all of the strongest growth located on the outer parts of the canopy. Later in June I will cut back the leaves but not those that are located on the weaker areas. With the smaller trees I do not touch them until June. At which point I may cut back lightly and perform a mild leaf cutting but often I do not touch them at all. This depends on how I see them growing from year to year.

Suckers where a future branch is not needed are cut off. No reason to keep them and they're only wasted energy.
 
I have noticed that by doing leaf cutting in June (cutting each leaf in half) the tree tends to produce quite a bit of back budding which is hardly an easy task with Japanese beech.
This is gold. Would the same method work for other beeches? (I giggle every time my brain hears the word beeches...)
Forest is looking so wonderful, this is one I will have to come see someday.
 
Great job Serg. You have way more patience than I do with all of the monitoring and care that you do on this group. I applaud you. Is the granite slab natural or man made? Very nice!

Yes August, that is a natural granite stone.
 
This is gold. Would the same method work for other beeches? (I giggle every time my brain hears the word beeches...)
Forest is looking so wonderful, this is one I will have to come see someday.

LOL!! Judy, I would say yes. Fortunately other beech species like F. sylvatica are easier to work with. Not quite as finicky.
 
Just came across this feed, absolutely stunning composition. It was great to read all the posts in 1 go and see the progression over the years
 
Usually I pinch back all of the strongest growth located on the outer parts of the canopy. Later in June I will cut back the leaves but not those that are located on the weaker areas. With the smaller trees I do not touch them until June. At which point I may cut back lightly and perform a mild leaf cutting but often I do not touch them at all. This depends on how I see them growing from year to year.

Suckers where a future branch is not needed are cut off. No reason to keep them and they're only wasted energy.
If I could ask you about Norway Spruce, end of Spring and end of Summer actions for keeping branches short and ramification. I have small trees and short branches with good secondaries and tertiary growth coming now. Sorry to continue to post but I do trust your advice.
 
This is gold. Would the same method work for other beeches? (I giggle every time my brain hears the word beeches...)
Forest is looking so wonderful, this is one I will have to come see someday.

Sorry Judy I just saw this from April! Yes, you can go even more aggressive with Fagus sylvatica. They respond very well to leaf cutting.
 
You can't help but to run into Beeches in the world, but I got to say your Beeches are some of the best I've seen.
 
That forest is amazing Serg, love how it all has fused. This progress thread is fantastic.
 
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