BalconyBonsai
Yamadori
Thanks Sorce for explaining it! But if it like this due to roots having formed higher up, wouldn't bareing them by removing the soil make them(the roots) dry out and die, affecting the tree?
Is this powdery mildew?
- Thread starter BalconyBonsai
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BalconyBonsai
Yamadori
Thanks for the tip! What ratio should be used? Does it also remove existing mildew or only make it difficult for the mildew to form?
I agree that it doesn't quite look like mildew to me. Im sure there are many types but the types I've seen recently, do not affect the edges like that. More so appear as small circularly spots in the middle of the leaf, eventually spreading around entirely. This is just a small bit of white round the edges.
Also mildew is quite easy to rub off with your finger, on a leaf (its not gone of course, its still there, just visibly it runs off with your finger) and calcium deposits from water, is not to easy..
Also mildew is quite easy to rub off with your finger, on a leaf (its not gone of course, its still there, just visibly it runs off with your finger) and calcium deposits from water, is not to easy..
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Seems to the green can be cleaned with little root worry.
The area between green and yellow is what needs more investigation. This area can be so bad (to my standards), you have to layer a new set of roots. This is where I'd listen to Shibui cuz I don't have the experience to know what can get better. And what will get worse.
You may be able to clean this area and let it dry. I believe this is best(easiest) case scenario. If that area is ruined, or need to grow better roots, you can fence up to soil up to the green again.
You can dig down below the yellow just for an idea, but I wouldn't go too far till proper Repot time. It's easy to get carried away.
Main thing is finding out what that possibly nasty section is doing.
Sorce
Shibui
Imperial Masterpiece
Trees have way more roots than they really need. A few dead small roots will not even affect the tree at all and it will just grow some more to compensate.
I can see some fine hair roots in that base. Some of them will die off even now. Cleaning that area might kill a few more root hairs but any that already have the ends down in the pot will still keep growing.
I would not bother too much about that area at least until repotting time when you can get a good look at the whole root system. That's the time to be making decisions about what looks good and what is needed for tree health.
SouthernMaple
Chumono
I just recently purchased a red maple from a nursery and I noticed something wrong with the leaves. I assumed it was leaf burn since we had a pretty hot summer here in the south. Could this be powdery mildew? Also I just quarantined said tree today, it has been near my collection and now I am afraid if it could spread to the rest of my maples, which are all healthy and have no diseases or problems.
My intention is to airlayer in the spring but would said layer carry over the disease to the layer? Also why would a grower sell an infected tree to a potential returning customer?
My intention is to airlayer in the spring but would said layer carry over the disease to the layer? Also why would a grower sell an infected tree to a potential returning customer?
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Hmm.. Doesn’t look like powdery mildew to me.... I could be wrong, but looks buggy to me... and something else.
Here’s what it looks like on my maples....
cheers
DSD sends
Here’s what it looks like on my maples....
cheers
DSD sends
That, looks like powdery mildew.. even if I had never seen it before. That looks like it. Nice leaf shapes though, so at least you know the tree is healthy outside of the mildew..
ajm55555
Chumono
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I agree. If you scrub it off, you will see some brown just below it, the start of the damage it does to the leaf.
Deep Sea Diver
Imperial Masterpiece
Yep. That was a last year photo.
Using Serenade fungicide this year. Only small issues with the Vine Maples and Autumn Blaze maples.
None of the Japanese, Tridents, Cherry, Crabapple, Hawthornes are affected so far. I sometimes use Copper Sulfate one of the Hawthornes as its got another type fungus issue that came over when I was given it.
cheers from the Smokey Seattle area!
DSD sends
Using Serenade fungicide this year. Only small issues with the Vine Maples and Autumn Blaze maples.
None of the Japanese, Tridents, Cherry, Crabapple, Hawthornes are affected so far. I sometimes use Copper Sulfate one of the Hawthornes as its got another type fungus issue that came over when I was given it.
cheers from the Smokey Seattle area!
DSD sends
Wulfskaar
Omono
I'm jumping in on this thread, hope that's cool... I've got some white crust around the leaves of my shishigashira.
Does this look like mildew, hard water evaporate, or too much fertilizer?
I did spray the whole plant with water a few days ago, but I also gave it a double-dose of 3-3-3 fertilizer (into the soil).
NOTE: Some of the leaves have been turning brown at the tips before the white showed up. I'm thinking that is due to the dry California air. The tree currently sits in mostly shade with some dappled light.
Does this look like mildew, hard water evaporate, or too much fertilizer?
I did spray the whole plant with water a few days ago, but I also gave it a double-dose of 3-3-3 fertilizer (into the soil).
NOTE: Some of the leaves have been turning brown at the tips before the white showed up. I'm thinking that is due to the dry California air. The tree currently sits in mostly shade with some dappled light.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
that is not mildew, proably hard water
Wulfskaar
Omono
Thanks leatherback. I'm hoping so.
SouthernMaple
Chumono
what if you have this but you feed your plants water from a stream?
leatherback
The Treedeemer
It can still be the water, if the water runs through/originates from calcium rich areas.
I have noticed my anti-fungals also leave scale-like deposits
Yeah I would bet some money on this being hard water. Do you know the hard water rating for your area?
My area is Very Hard water, and this is a constant annoyance. Mostly it affects those more ever green, like my olive.
Main thing is, it just looks a tad bad, shouldn't affect the health of the tree at all.
This can built up on trunks and nebari too. I use a toothbrush dipped in white vinegar (I dont dilute it) and scrub. It does work. For leaves, you could perhaps make up a mixture of vinegar diluted in water and spray it on the leaves, but I've not tried this. Theoretically, it should work.
leatherback
The Treedeemer
vinegar is a serious herbicide. I woud NOT spray it on foliage. The bark will not be damaged by it
Yeah, like I said, I've not done it but should work in theory, not to say there may be downsides, as you mention. As I said too, it would be diluted, so perhaps not so much of a problem as you mention.
