Is this needle blight?

justBonsai

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I have a small younger grafted white pine and there are a decent amount of needles with yellow or brown tips. It may just be some heat damage from last growing season but I don't know for certain. Do these needles look like they're infected with some variation of needle blight? If so what are the methods to treat it? **As a note these are newer needles. All the old needles are shed and removed in the fall
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Thanks,
Julian
 
I'd be looking to see if it's not too wet first. They hate too much water at the roots when dormant. Particularly if they are on their own roots. Get rid of the rocks as well.
The very moment you notice any kind of yellowing on a white pine check the roots immediately!
 
I'd be looking to see if it's not too wet first. They hate too much water at the roots when dormant. Particularly if they are on their own roots. Get rid of the rocks as well.
The very moment you notice any kind of yellowing on a white pine check the roots immediately!
I've been pretty careful about the watering this past winter and after. It may have been over-watered in the past but the roots should be okay right now--its growing in a 100% inorganic mix. The center of the rootball still has some of the original soil but I don't want to attempt to remove it until the tree is very vigorous since white pines are finicky about root work. At the moment they get lightly to moderately watered every other day.

My concern is whether the yellowing is attributed to watering/heat damage or a fungal/disease issue. If its the former it can be remedied by fixing my watering schedule. If its the latter I'm not sure what to do.

As for the rocks I keep it to stabilize the surface of the soil. Water still evaporates fine and the rocks prevent soil from displacing when using the garden hose.
 
BNut has 'Resources' to help you work your way through problems like this. Use this one in this case.
Thanks! Didn't see this one before.

On a different note usually when do white pines begin shoving growth? I know this differs monthly depending on where you live, but seasonally when? I noticed some movement on buds on my jwp but no strong growth yet. Should jwps flush out by early spring or is it more towards late spring early summer?
 
Looks fungal to me.If old needles were removed than it's probably not heat damage. White pines are never happy campers here in so cal even when grafted unto black pine. Try Clearys 3336 or bi weekly applications of copper.
 
Looks fungal to me.If old needles were removed than it's probably not heat damage. White pines are never happy campers here in so cal even when grafted unto black pine. Try Clearys 3336 or bi weekly applications of copper.
Would any copper fungicide work? Could I just grab a bottle from my local nursery as long as it lists copper as the primary ingredient?
 
Thanks! Didn't see this one before.

On a different note usually when do white pines begin shoving growth? I know this differs monthly depending on where you live, but seasonally when? I noticed some movement on buds on my jwp but no strong growth yet. Should jwps flush out by early spring or is it more towards late spring early summer?
If it's a recent photo, yours is behind. You should see fully elongated candles and needles opening by now. I'll share a photo of my JWP when it gets light.

I'd hit it with a copper fungicide and make sure the soil gets "dry" between waterings. Peter Warren used to joke as they watered all the trees in the nursery, they'd just spray the ground in front of the JWP and call it good.

The river rocks top dressing doesn't help you assess soil moisture. I'd remove them so you can accurately monitor soil.

I also think the pond basket phenomenon is hurting new bonsai growers. It's tough to water correctly when the exterior of the root ball (where all the new roots go) is constantly dry from the perforations, and the interior of the root ball, which is slower to dry, never gets a chance to dry out, causing mushy soil, and a loss of roots. It's two very different climates that can't be treated differently, so the interior stays wet, weak, and without roots. The exterior is where the roots "want" to grow, but it's constantly drying out and creates a hostile environment for the new roots to struggle against. They're also too deep. Good grow pots should be shallower and wider. All this to contend with when the original intent of pond baskets was to fuel strong growth is counter-productive.
 
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Would any copper fungicide work? Could I just grab a bottle from my local nursery as long as it lists copper as the primary ingredient?
Yes you can use any copper- but to be honest I wouldn't get my hopes up. If you know someone in the mountains or a colder climate you may want to send them the tree.
 
If it's a recent photo, yours is behind. You should see fully elongated candles and needles opening by now. I'll share a photo of my JWP when it gets light.

I'd hit it with a copper fungicide and make sure the soil gets "dry" between waterings. Peter Warren used to joke as they watered all the trees in the nursery, they'd just spray the ground in front of the JWP and call it good.

The river rocks top dressing doesn't help you assess soil moisture. I'd remove them so you can accurately monitor soil.

I also think the pond basket phenomenon is hurting new bonsai growers. It's tough to water correctly when the exterior of the root ball (where all the new roots go) is constantly dry from the perforations, and the interior of the root ball, which is slower to dry, never gets a chance to dry out, causing mushy soil, and a loss of roots. It's two very different climates that can't be treated differently, so the interior stays wet, weak, and without roots. The exterior is where the roots "want" to grow, but it's constantly drying out and creates a hostile environment for the new roots to struggle against. They're also too deep. Good grow pots should be shallower and wider. All this to contend with when the original intent of pond baskets was to fuel strong growth is counter-productive.
Thanks. The white pine was weak last season so I'm trying to get it going. You're right about the pond basket deal. When first transplanted last year I often bothink overwatered or unew watered the tree. Hard to get the watering done correctly, especially when still starting out.

@bonsaibp
I actually want to sell the tree/relocate it in the future but I need to get it healthy first. I did acquire the tree before I knew they were not ideal candidates go grow in our climate.
 
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@Brian Van Fleet
Man I don't know where these typos are coming from. Probably just too tired in the morning.

How much time typically passes between your waterings for jwp that allows the soil to dry adequately? I'll try to figure out a good routine but my aim is to let the outer new soil dry as much without becoming bone dry between waterings. At the moment the tree gets watered every other day moderately. Should I be more concerned about over or under watering more? The tree was very root bound last season so I did a moderate repotting into a good mix--I didn't remove all off the original soil as I had thought that to be too aggressive for the tree. Since the very core of the root mass still is made up of an organic medium and is denser than the outside won't the center of the root mass actually receive less water and thus dry faster?

My current plan is to treat with copper for the possible blight and thiomyl fungicide for potential root rot. Unfortunately I cannot check my trees in person right now so I'll have to do watering adjustments in a week or 2. Ideally the tree regains vigor and colonizes the new soil so I can get a vigorous season next year .
 
Well, our climates are very different, but to compare, I water JWP less than half as often as I water my JBP. So if I water my JBP daily, the JWP will go 2-3 days. It just takes water more slowly, so it doesn't actually sit bone-dry on the third day, but I do let it get drier than any d-tree or juniper.
 
Silly question but what if JWP are grafted onto different understock? Do their watering requirements mirror those of the understock or should it be kept drier regardless?
 
Silly question but what if JWP are grafted onto different understock? Do their watering requirements mirror those of the understock or should it be kept drier regardless?
I think the water uptake corresponds to the rate of growth of the foliage of grafted tree so the water requirements would mirror that of white pine, not that of black pine even though its grafted on black pine roots.
 
I would cut off all these green pine cone looking things. It looks to me like weakening is happening on this tree. Just use pruners and cut back well into hardwood to fix the problem.

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Gotta love the first day of April!
 

Can't believe the size of those at the tips, will you break part off for balance? Pretty interesting to see how candles are looking in other climates. I dont have enough seasons with white pine yet to be entirely comfortable each spring as everything wakes up. One of my younger ones is getting going but my older more refined one is not really showing much of anything and I'm hoping it's not weakened. Either way I've never seen candles like those on yours!
 

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I would cut off all these green pine cone looking things. It looks to me like weakening is happening on this tree. Just use pruners and cut back well into hardwood to fix the problem.

View attachment 99858

Gotta love the first day of April!
Good idea. Actually I'm only 14 days away from defoliating it anyway, so removing all those green pine cone looking things will make that tedious chore go a bit faster.
 
Can't believe the size of those at the tips, will you break part off for balance? Pretty interesting to see how candles are looking in other climates. I dont have enough seasons with white pine yet to be entirely comfortable each spring as everything wakes up. One of my younger ones is getting going but my older more refined one is not really showing much of anything and I'm hoping it's not weakened. Either way I've never seen candles like those on yours!
My buds look like yours. Barely beginning to shove around the tree.
 
I would think in your zone things would be further along as already stated. Def follow Brian's advice. I too have had problems with pond baskets exactly as he described so you will have to keep an eye on things.

Most of my trees regardless of species have just started moving in the last two to three weeks, with repotted trees being further along. This season is wacky though and I'm still getting 40 degree temp swings. Good luck with your tree, hope it snaps out of it.
 
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