Is always a complete wiring mandatory?

[PiñonJ]

Ponderosa are very flexible and can be wired anytime. They don’t put n Wood very quickly, so wire doesn’t cut in. They also take several years to “set”.

Not true of young trees with heavy fertilization. I set structure on mine last fall, including a big trunk bend. I had to remove most of the wire a few weeks ago, already, including the 4-gauge on the trunk.

 

[Clicio]

However, if this is a new tree, the chances that all branches are already positioned the way you want is slim to none. You will need to wire all the branches to position them and open them up to the sunlight.

Yup, I am aware of that.
It's an old tree, already trained, which apex had to be lowered.

 

[Lazylightningny]

Yup, I am aware of that.
It's an old tree, already trained, which apex had to be lowered.

In which case, it makes no sense to wire the whole tree.

 

[Clicio]

In which case, it makes no sense to wire the whole tree.

Yes, that's how it was wired. Partial.
I am going to quote myself:

Thanks guys, I agree it makes no sense.

 

[Kendo]

KY!

 

[my nellie]

... ...I posted a thread in the Resource section “How to use fishhooks” or something like that. But here are some pictures:

Hello Adair,
I was trying to spot that article/tutorial but I didn't manage to find it because it is not in the Resources section.
In fact it is in : Special Forums -> Articles and Tutorials -> Articles & Tutorials -> Advanced wiring: using "fishhooks" link here

 

[Adair M]

Hello Adair,
I was trying to spot that article/tutorial but I didn't manage to find it because it is not in the Resources section.
In fact it is in : Special Forums -> Articles and Tutorials -> Articles & Tutorials -> Advanced wiring: using "fishhooks" link here

Thanks!

 

[my nellie]

Don't mention it!

 

[grouper52]

I was wiring just the apex of a cascade JRP, and one of the guys around (Japanese) said "you have to wire the whole tree, even if it doesn't need it. If you wire only a couple of branches, the chance the whole tree stops growing trying to heal those branches are great; and the chance that only those wired branches die back is also greater, because the tree "decides" they are not worth the effort."
Does it make any sense?

Under the "Resources" section of this site you might benefit from reading my tutorial about "Baby Bending." In tropical climates like I'm in now, I much prefer to use guy wires for general branch placement in combination with Clip-and-Grow styling: I find wrapped wire cuts in far too quickly because trees grow very quickly here, and Clip-and-Grow works very well when they grow so quickly as well, and, since it mimics the very way tree branches develop a gnarly architecture in nature, the results are very natural looking. In temperate climates, however, "Baby Bending" with wrapped wire is much more practical because the growing seasons are much shorter, (although I still prefer guy wires for general branch placement in any type of climate). Hope that helps, and check out the tutorial.

 

[Adair M]

Under the "Resources" section of this site you might benefit from reading my tutorial about "Baby Bending." In tropical climates like I'm in now, I much prefer to use guy wires for general branch placement in combination with Clip-and-Grow styling: I find wrapped wire cuts in far too quickly because trees grow very quickly here, and Clip-and-Grow works very well when they grow so quickly as well, and, since it mimics the very way tree branches develop a gnarly architecture in nature, the results are very natural looking. In temperate climates, however, "Baby Bending" with wrapped wire is much more practical because the growing seasons are much shorter, (although I still prefer guy wires for general branch placement in any type of climate). Hope that helps, and check out the tutorial.

For the most part, I agree with your “Baby Bending” technique. Many people will not wire young deciduous branches when they are young and supple and soft. But that is the time to put in curves! Especially since you can put in a curve between the internodes.

I am having to use that technique heavily on this tree to shorten up some long and thin spindly JWP branches:



You can see some of the branches in the upper section I haven’t wired yet, and the effect I’ve acheived by putting in lots of little curves down below.

Here is a picture of one of the bottom branches taken from above:



There’s hardly a straight section anywhere.

When I’m finished wiring, I’ll go back and adjust everything. The branches are in their approximate position, but until I get all the wire on, I won’t try to get it “perfect”. I knock it around a little as I work, unfortunately.

So far, I haven’t had to guy wire anything. The primary branches were already positioned, so I’ve just been working the secondary’s. Pretty much every tip is getting wired.

 

[grouper52]

Very nice tree, and nice work, and great advice. It's a very useful technique, and nice to see it used with such great results.